Having Trouble Fitting A Quick Rack

[ricky1.9 0]

Has anyone else had any trouble with fitting a quick rack kit?

 

I have taken the rack apart (and in doing so buggered up the old pinion spline) and now i've put it back together. But the rack seems solid in the tube and can move the rack left to right by hitting with rubber mallet but is very tight. When I slacken the sprung loaded cap off it moves no trouble but doesn't run right, it is gruanchy.

 

Has anyone got any advice??

 

Also does anyone have any half decent exploded drawings of the pinoin and sprung load cap thingy.

 

Cheers

[ricky1.9 0]

anyone rebuilt a rack before??

[Sandy 189]

Yes, but I couldn't really say without seeing it, sorry.

[ricky1.9 0]

I think it is just a pile of dog turd! I just fitted it and as well as it being very stiff even with out the wheels or tie bars connected, it has loads of slop to it.

 

Well that is ebay for - 50 squid down the drain!

 

 

Anyone want to buy a really good quick rack

[saveloy 8]

The slop is most likely due to the fact that you have damaged the pinion. You will need to fix that, simply because it's bloody dangerous.

The tightness is likely to be too little, or no play in the thrust plate - the one you loosened.

If you remove the plate completely, does the rack move freely? If so, then pack up the plate with a smaller shim/washer than the one already fitted. Add/remove the shims until the steering feels a little tighter than you want. This is because the brass bearing (you should have fitted) will wear a little and create some play.

[ricky1.9 0]

The slop is most likely due to the fact that you have damaged the pinion. You will need to fix that, simply because it's bloody dangerous.

The tightness is likely to be too little, or no play in the thrust plate - the one you loosened.

If you remove the plate completely, does the rack move freely? If so, then pack up the plate with a smaller shim/washer than the one already fitted. Add/remove the shims until the steering feels a little tighter than you want. This is because the brass bearing (you should have fitted) will wear a little and create some play.

 

To be fair I cant see how i would have manage to damage it , I haven't had a chance to take it out and hae a look at it again.

I think that it is just a badly machined aftermarket piece.

 

I have tried slackening it off ( or using smaller shims ) this does make it move easier but doesn't run right, it is rough, gruanchy, if that makes sense. The rack also rotates a little when the pinion is turned left to right, which shouldn't happen if they where located correctly.

[saveloy 8]

In that case I fear you are right.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Most quickracks for the 205 are not worth fitting as the quality is c**p, most people inc some Rally Prep co's just use the P/S rack without the ram.

[Rik 0]

Do you know of any higher quality suppliers Miles?

 

Rik

[Sandy 189]

I've had several from AB motorsport on road cars and the quality/durability so far has been perfect. I can't remember where Colin gets the ones for competition cars.

[tri_longer 25]

I've had several from AB motorsport on road cars and the quality/durability so far has been perfect. I can't remember where Colin gets the ones for competition cars.

[/quoute]

 

I can vouch for the AB Motorsport quickrack, we've had no trouble at all. However, they built it for us so no idea what your problem may be.

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

I'm doing this at the moment, with a brief pause due to having a 'splined' quickrack kit and a manual square rack to convert The square and splined pinions are different lengths.

 

Anyways, if you did'nt change the pinion and only the rack part, how can you get a quicker rack? The spacing will be all wrong. I got both in my conversion kit from WMMS.

 

I'm currently having trouble sourcing a pinion bearing.............