Veero 1 Posted June 25, 2007 Converted my 1.6 205 to Mi16 power last year and it always seemed to run warm. It's been off the road for a few motnhs and on the way to the MOT place today in some traffic ti seemed to get warm again. Last April it had: -Brand new Nissen rad, exact same spec as GTi one -Brand new rad fan switch from ECP, (fan is powered and works on both speeds), not sure which it is I asked for the lowest switching temp they sold -Brand new 2 stage OEM Peugeot Mi16 thermostat -Brand new Peugeot OEM water pump with metal impellor Just now it has had: -Full BBM silicone hose kit, running the complete Mi coolant system including the pipe along the back of the head to the distro block, hose from side of thermostat housing runs to heater matrix in car. System has been fully bled, engine run a few times and now driven 15 minutes to MOT place. No obvious signs of HG failure (engine fully rebuilt, head skimmed and new HG 6000 miles ago), no coolant consumption. Driving along it hovers above the mid range on the gauge, it climbs from cold as to be expected no sudden change but so long as air is flowing over the rad it seems to sit steady. As soon as I get in traffic it starts edging up, today (rain and cold wind so not exactly warm summer weather) it got to the penultimate notch on the gauge and I wussed out and turned the interior heater on full pelt which brought it down to a steady level again. As I remember motorway driving kept it steady, about 2/3 up the gauge which is higher than most other people's. Today I didn't actually let it get to the warning light temp stage but when I got to the MOT garage the slow (I think) speed fan was on. I wouldn't mind it coming on but of course when I'm in the car I can't hear it since the grp N engine mount kit is so stiff the car vibrates like a bastard and I can't hear squat. I did a search a read several other threads but nothing quite fitted the bill. It's just that when I had the 1.6 in there it would do the same but took much longer to occur and never got that high on the gauge even in traffic, the fan seemed to keep it controlled. Could it be just not getting that hot at all and just be a faulty gauge sender making me paranoid and the fan is in fact doing a fine job just that the dial reading is way out? I know it's not actualyl gone pop or had warning lights but IMO and judging from others' it shouldn't run this hot and I don't want to cook it after all this hard work. Cheers Veero Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
James_m 0 Posted June 25, 2007 Tho sounds exactly the same as my car. Never used to do it until i dropped my nissen rad after the inlet manifold hammered a hole in my old one. Reason is, the rad does'nt really sit properly in the airflow of the fan. I have solved this by taking out the cylinder shaped thing attached to the fan wiring(Cant for the life of me remmeber the name of it at the moment ), and bridging the 2 pins on the plug (Cheers Kieran ) This just puts the fan on max speed and does away with the slow speed setting. Bloody noisy! but it does the job. James. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Veero 1 Posted June 26, 2007 It's definately running too hot if the guage is right. Does anyone have a pic of what the gauge should be? I mean what temperatures the notches approximate to? If so I could try and calibrate the gauge by having the temp sender in some boiling water. Any ideas? Veero Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rocky 0 Posted June 26, 2007 My Mi temp gauge never goes past third bar. My fan cuts in just above the second bar and by bar 3 is on the fastest speed. it then just keeps temp at bar 3 and fan will nto go off till i shut the engine off I think that this is normal, and the car doesnt behave oddly. The fan is noisy though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 242 3 Cars Posted June 27, 2007 Does anyone have a pic of what the gauge should be? I mean what temperatures the notches approximate to? See attached image for normal running tmeps but these are also dependant on what temp thermostat you have fitted, this is an 8v iirc. I have an 82' one on my car (also an 8v) & normal running temp is just below the fourth line as in the picture, maybe slightly lower than that but when it gets hot enough for the fans to switch on its sat two marks above there. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Veero 1 Posted June 27, 2007 Ah ok cheers Graham. Mine runs in the same sort of place when moving around, maybe a smidgen higher but climbs quite quickly when becoming stationary and the fan doesn't seem to keep it there and it will climb to the penulitmate mark fairly quickly in traffic if I don't turn the interior blower on full heat. Not sure what temp stat I got, it was the only 2 stage one listed for the XU9J4 iirc. Someone had a piccy of a French 205 temp gauge with numbers on the gauge itself? Cheers Veero Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rocky 0 Posted June 27, 2007 Does this mean my Mi16 temp is too low if on the third bar only? I have a cold temp thermostat, and once fans comne on they never go off! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 242 3 Cars Posted July 2, 2007 Does this mean my Mi16 temp is too low if on the third bar only? IMO the thrid bar doesn't mean much, a different temperature sender could mean its running hotter than this but doesn't indcate it on the guage. Where does your oil temp guage sit on a long run? Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rocky 0 Posted July 2, 2007 My Oil temp sits around the second bar. I dont think i have ever seen it above third bar after a long run. As for temp sender, i think i have cold ecu temp sensor (according to previous owner) - do you think this is causing my overfuelling probs, and maybe i need a normal temp sensor? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Veero 1 Posted July 2, 2007 Well drove it Southampton to Exeter last night and to work today and after warming up sat just above the 4th bar but completely steady while moving. Got into traffic this morning and it got to the second to last bar on the gauge but my fan didn't kick in , connection to the rad fan temp switch must be all grotty (tested the fan by shorting the connector and it definately works). Not sure about the oil temp, again must have a grotty connection the needle skips about but only went to between the 2nd and 3rd bars on the oil temp gauge. Ill sort the fan out and leave it running for a bit tonight to see if it can stabilise the water temp... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,627 Posted July 2, 2007 I know its a shot in the dark but you may have the wrong water pump on there if its been doing this ever since it was installed. There is 2 different sizes of impeller but the body and sprocket are identical, and there are no I.D marks! if in doubt check the invoice for the part number. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Veero 1 Posted July 4, 2007 I know its a shot in the dark but you may have the wrong water pump on there if its been doing this ever since it was installed. There is 2 different sizes of impeller but the body and sprocket are identical, and there are no I.D marks! if in doubt check the invoice for the part number. Eep! It came from Pug, as far as I know it was the only one listed for the engine. No real way to check either other than dismantle and visual inspection, managed to lose the 1 invoice with half of the new Pug parts I bougt for the conversion Well it seems to be running fine at the moment, been driving it to and from work each day this week and moving it sits just above 4th bar and in stop start traffic it stays there so long as it has airflow. Only gets hot if I get stuck stationary for 2 mins+. I have replaced the self-destructing fan: with a Nissan Almera GTi one which is enourmous, much bigger blades, shorting out the rad fan temp switch connections and it comes on at the 2 different speeds but I havent heard it come on of its own accord yet... Wondering if the connection is all s*itty and corroded. Got me worried about the water pump now. What are the differences with the impellor? All I remember is it had fairly chunky blades. Not a massive help or good picture but here's a zoom in of a photo of it on the table: Veero Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob_the_Sparky 9 Posted July 4, 2007 If the water pump were faulty it shouldn't be cooling enough when using the car on the MWay as there would not be enough water flow. Sounds like either grotty wiring to the fan switch (all my 205shave had dodgy wiring here) or the fan switch itself. Rob Note: there is no point in having a huge fan a distance away from the rad. For the fan to push air through the rad in any great quantity it needs to be shrouded (like the OEM fan) or virtually touching the rad. Otherwise a fair amount of the air blown just bounces off the front face of the rad Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Veero 1 Posted July 4, 2007 Well as it doesnt overheat on the M'way I guess it's an ok one. Good point about the fan, the Nissan one is in its shroud and is mounted so that the whole assembly is puched right up against the rad as the OEM one would have been. Veero Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ren 0 Posted July 4, 2007 Whie you're checking stuff over have a look at the rad swtch. There should be a coloured band round it. Mine has just packed up and been replaced, it had a red band around it and the temps for the switch were 97 for the first stage and 101 for the second. The 1 i replaced it with is green and the temps are 92.5 and 97.5. This has brought my running temps down by quite a bit as the fans now kick in earlier. Ren. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Veero 1 Posted July 6, 2007 The fan doesnt come on because when it starts up it fouls the central support bracket for the grill I spent about an hour carefully making sure it cleared everything after customising the Nissan rad fan shroud to fit in the gap only to whack the grill back on and not check it what a tard... Well it's a ghetto 205 now, sans-grill until I take a small slice off the central support bracket. So now with a working fan which actually DOES come on, overheating shouldnt be a problem, woot Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GLPoomobile 958 Posted July 6, 2007 My MI also runs warm in my opinion, but whether it is actually warm or just normal I don't know, as I can only compare to my previous 1.6 and 1.9 8V. Started from cold and left to idle, it'll get up to about the middle of the guage quite quickly. Not sure how quick, maybe 5 minutes, but certainly quicker than my previous 205s. Cruising around the temp will hover around the 3rd and 4th markings (not counting the the first marking on the guage, which I consider to be 0) but doesn't go any higher than that. If stuck in traffic (i.e. wonderful central London traffic ) the guage rises to the 2nd from last mark, maybe a smidge over. The fan does come on at this stage and it won't go any higher it seems. My oil temps are higher than I'm used to as well. So when cruising on the motorway they hover at the 2nd mark whereas I'm used to them being at the 1st mark in my previous 1.6, and will rise if I give it beans (to be expected without an oil cooler). It'll get slightly higher if the coolant temp goes up to the 2nd from last mark when stuck in traffic. The knock on effect of this is that my oil pressure drops at idle to almost on the first mark when the oil temps are up high. Oil pressure is fine at all other times. I'm not sure if I have anything to worry about at the moment, but would prefer my temps to be lower all around. Engine was rebuilt by DES last year, so I'd expect it have the right pump. Rad is also fairly new (OE) and lowered. Since I'm postng, can anyone tell me the correct temp rating for the thermostat on an Mi? Sorry if it was mentioned earlier on in the topic. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
