lee7421 0 Posted March 6, 2007 Hey all just wondered if i could get some help/guidelines. I have a pretty much standard h plate 1.9 and have been offered a decent gti6 engine and box quite cheap. I cant find any guides or anything on the net so hoped i could get some help here? Do i need to move anything in the bay like the rad or anything and do i need different engine mounts etc? any help at would be much appriciated as im a novice to this!!! thanks lee Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lee7421 0 Posted March 6, 2007 oh it hasnt got an ecu is this a big problem? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Richie-Van-GTi 70 2 Cars Posted March 6, 2007 you will need an ecu yes, Try finding one from a xsara vts without the tranmsponder, they are few and far between but Ive been assured they do exist. that or get one from a scrappy out early gti6 with keypad and just take keypad and the number to match it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smighall 1 Posted March 6, 2007 I've got a spare ECU, but you will need to get it unlocked. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugpete1108 62 1 Cars Posted March 7, 2007 Hey all just wondered if i could get some help/guidelines. I have a pretty much standard h plate 1.9 and have been offered a decent gti6 engine and box quite cheap. I cant find any guides or anything on the net so hoped i could get some help here? Do i need to move anything in the bay like the rad or anything and do i need different engine mounts etc? any help at would be much appriciated as im a novice to this!!! thanks lee yes lee you will ned to lower the rad and you can use the engine mounts ( use the gti6 top mount ). i would suggest using stiffened ones and a solid lower ones to limit engine movement . alot of people worrie about using the gti6 box on a 205 due to the wheel catching on the box on full lock , i am using a 1.6 gti one on mine so i don't have to worry. i also had trouble with clearance around the master cylinder , but some don't have this troble which is a bit odd but hey. check out my webpage at the bottom of the page , or give us a pm or mail and i will help you out if i can pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dixon 1 Posted March 7, 2007 I found that I didn't have to move the rad, it's close but it does fit. I had the same clearance problem with the master cylinder, which required shaving some of cam belt cover off and a little of the rocker cover. If you are using the standard exhaust you will also have problems with it hitting the bulkhead. I believe a maniflow exhaust manifold clears it but is quite an expensive solution as it doesn't really give you any performance gain either. The cheaper option is to 'modify' the bulkhead with a knockometer. Definatly worth fitting Group N engine mounts too as you don't want then engine moving much when its sat that close to things such as your mastercylinder! And yes you will require an ecu, preferably unlocked. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pj838 0 Posted March 7, 2007 Have been looking at your site pete as I'm doing the same conversion in the summer, stripping my 6 engine now . How did you tilt the master cylinder? Is it easy to do as it looks much safer, I don't think I want to risk it with mine if its that close to the cambelt Paul. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lee7421 0 Posted March 7, 2007 thanks for all your help guys. How much am i looking at for an ecu and uprated engine mounts? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt Holley 11 Posted March 10, 2007 Check the for sale section I am selling an ecu with transponder box and key, comes with a loom too Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugpete1108 62 1 Cars Posted March 10, 2007 Have been looking at your site pete as I'm doing the same conversion in the summer, stripping my 6 engine now . How did you tilt the master cylinder? Is it easy to do as it looks much safer, I don't think I want to risk it with mine if its that close to the cambelt Paul. paul , i spaced out the servo retaining bolts and tilted the whole assembly upwards. basically i undone 4 of the six bolts ( left the two top ones fxed) and slid in 10mm spacers between the bulkhead and the servo assembly. if i had thought about it before i fitted the engine i would have removed the assembly completly and spaced it out actually on the bolts to secure the spacers a bit more as at the mo they are just wedged between the bulkhead and the servo. if i get any problems i will remove it and do this in the future. so if you have the engine out i would do it this way Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pj838 0 Posted March 10, 2007 cheers for the info. I will remove the whole thing then when I take the 8v out . The plan is to do a big refurb of all that stuff, replacing rack/hubs/bushes etc etc so this will get added to the list. And who knows what rust eaten horrors I will find in the engine bay Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
