Need Help From The Electric Guys

[tidypug 5 2 Cars]

This a follow on from a post i did a few weeks ago ( http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...8259&hl=hid ).

 

Now i bought a couple of the recirifiers as specified and fitted them, to start with i put one the wrong way round and burnt my fingers . I put them in tghe other way round, tried the lights, still the same problem with the spots not turning off.

 

I also bought some resistors to see if they made any difference, i put one in and it worked but got pretty warm so i'm hesitant to use them in case they burn up and catch fire to something. I'm also worried that i may damage some of the wiring, relay ect. I'm probably just being too cautious but as i don't know a thing about electrics i think its the best way to be.

 

1.What are peoples opinions to using a resistor to sort the problem?

2.What are the rectifiers supposed to do?

3. Does anyone else have any ideas?

 

The picture below shows all the bits that i have bought. Is a resistor better than the others or do i need to go and get a different type? Could someone also put a positive and negative on the rectifier as i'm still not too sure which way it should go.

 

 

Thanks again guys

[Guest srack]

i might aint getting it right

the fog lights burn what?

anyhow, whats the problem with taking the fog light switch, get a fuse to it, and connect it to the 15(s.i) or + after switch in the people's language, to the switch (do not forget the fuse) and regular earth (50 s.i) to the fogs.

if you want, you can use a relay to boost the power direct from the battery, on the relay you've got numbers, 85 goes to earth, 86 goes to the + after the switch, 30 comes from the battery, 87 goes to the fog lights, do not forget to use a fuse.

an 15amp fuse will do fine for the fog lights, i dunno how much watts they are, gimme the watts, will calculate what fuse u must use.

if you want, i can come and fix that for you, but im 5000km from ya... so if you wish, i can write a sceam over the paint and send it to you. so you will know what goes where..

that should fix all your problems

extra wires from the old and fisrt installation can go to the junk.

hope it helps... if i got what you're talking about right...

[welshpug 1,626]

they're not fog lights and there isnt an independent switch.

 

have you checked if theres a current still going through the Spot Lamp relay after mainbeam is off?

[tidypug 5 2 Cars]

i haven't no, how do i do that?

[welshpug 1,626]

remove the relay, switch to main beam, you'll have 12v coming through.

 

turn back to dipped and see if you still have 12v across the relay.

 

(there will always be 12v between 2 of the terminals, but there shouldnt be between the other two, only when main beam is on)

[Super Josh 4]

How did you wire in the Diode? That one looks very small, which ones did you buy from Maplin? 1N4004 (1 Amp) or a 1N5401 (3 Amp)?

 

 

 

Josh

[tidypug 5 2 Cars]

it was the 1 amp ones, they said they were rated at 50 watts so should do.

 

I didn't wire it in properly as i was just testing it. I just pushed the ends into the empty bulb connector.

 

The strange thing is that when i put an old bulb in the spare connector the problem stops

Edited December 30, 2006 by tidypug

[welshpug 1,626]

err, what empty connector?

[gizzmo 3 1 Cars]

sounds that a relay to the lamps is latching on this is done by feeding back the switch live to the coi terminal of the relay, couldnt really under stand the.full fault are the lamps standard or fitted after

[tidypug 5 2 Cars]

As i now have the hids fitted the original bulb plugs aren't used, only 1 is used so the hids know when they should turn on, when high beam should be on ect. Does this help?

 

The spot lights are original and wired into the original wiring so only come on with high beam.

Edited December 30, 2006 by tidypug

[Super Josh 4]

I didn't wire it in properly as i was just testing it. I just pushed the ends into the empty bulb connector.

 

That'll be why it didn't work then, no wonder it got hot, you've shorted out the +ve and -ve supply with the diode and probably fried it now. What you are trying to do is let the current flow from High Beam wire on the Pug wiring loom into the high beam wire on the HID loom, when you switch the high beam on. But not let any current flow back from the HID loom to keep the driving lamp relay energised. The Diode will only let current flow in one direction, we want it to flow from the Pug loom to the HID loom, but not back the other way. If that makes sense?

 

So what you need to do to try it out temporarily is to remove the High Beam wire from the H4 3 pin plug on the HID loom. The one that is used to connect it to the original Pug loom. Then put the Diode (a new one) in line with the connection that you have just broken, with the white stripe on the Diode towards the HID. Like this....

 

 

 

 

 

Hopefully you get the idea, I haven't wired it in, but do it to test it. If it works then cut the wires and solder it in place and cover it in heatshrink sleeving etc.

 

 

 

Josh

[Super Josh 4]

Oh, and do you have a multimeter or test lamp? If so, then make sure that I used the high beam wire in the demo knock up above.

 

 

Josh

[gizzmo 3 1 Cars]

the problem with electrical problems is that u often have to be sat in front of the the circuit with multimeter in hand if the instruction manuel came with the hids double check your connections against instructions if u are happy that u got that correct .get in touch with the retailer for assistance it may be a product issue if i plugged in me vac and the toaster came o .straightback to the shop? sorry best i can suggest

[tidypug 5 2 Cars]

I've just tried it, no luck.

[tidypug 5 2 Cars]

I've just tried the resistors, they also don't work, i did have quite a big one that worked before but have lost it, D'oh.

[tidypug 5 2 Cars]

so does anyone else have any ideas?

[tidypug 5 2 Cars]

I've sorted it, its a bit of a bodge but its the only thing i could think of .

Basically all i've done is wire up the 5 watt side of the bulb, this is enough for the relay to switch off once i turn the lights off. The bulb has been placed behind the engine mount and ontop of the chassis rail.

Edited January 4, 2007 by tidypug

[Edp 67 3 Cars]

Under bonnet lighting? very modern!

 

Seriously though are the new lights that much of an improvement to resort to all this cable/bulb/diode/electricaltape thingy uner the bonnet? I mean we all know how s*ite the pug wiring is anyway and I speak from experience with having engine fires and all that. Your pug is far to nice to have a bonnet fire with all that going on....

[tidypug 5 2 Cars]

I think it should be ok, this is why i used the 5 watt bulb. It doesn't get hot so can't melt anything and is only on when i have full beam on so will not be on for long periods. There is probably a better way of doing this but as i have no knowledge of electrics this is the best i can do.

[Alex G 0]

what would happen if you connect the three wires from the front right head light to the corresponding three wires on the front left headlight and then onto the HID system....would that solve it.

 

 

Alex.

[welshpug 1,626]

what would happen if you connect the three wires from the front right head light to the corresponding three wires on the front left headlight and then onto the HID system....would that solve it.

Alex.

 

isnt that how they're meant to be setup anyway?