tagy 1 Posted December 20, 2006 How tight are you meant to do the balljoint-clamp bolt? I can't seem to get it to stop knocking no matter how tight I do it. Allready knackerd a couple of bolts overtightening, and put a different hub carrier on that didn't seem ovaled at all. I cant find a torque rating in haynes Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Faz85 0 Posted December 20, 2006 I've always found that FT (F**king Tight) is enough torque for the clamp bolt, never really bothered with the joke book...are you sure thats the cause of your knocking? could be driveshaft? CV joint? could also be the wishbone itself if the bushes are perished. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
j_turnell 134 3 Cars Posted December 20, 2006 Just do it tight, with a decent lock nut, make sure when you put the bolt through the hole is lined up as if it needs persuading then your liable to strip threds whilst knocking it through. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alastairh 47 Posted December 20, 2006 Yeah Ft is the way. New bolts are adviceable, and there like 50p from Peugeot. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jonnie205 1 Posted December 20, 2006 Yeah best to fit new bolts and make sure they slide straight in dont hit them. Dont go mad tigtening just make sure its well nipped up. I often fir high tensile cap heads with a good 25mm shank, m10 is the size Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,000 Posted December 20, 2006 From memory it's 33lbft - it's definately in the Haynes manual. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tagy 1 Posted December 20, 2006 thanks people, I am not convinced the knocking coming from the balljoint now. I put a fresh bolt in and can't get it to knock by jacking that corner up and shacking the wheel. Also it seems worse when cold.. 6AM this morning it sounded like it was gonna fall to bits. But when hot it is not as bad. I am now thinking it could be the brake caliper? Its hard to tell becasue my brake disc does not have any screws attaching it so with the wheel off, the caliper + disc do move around. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,622 Posted December 20, 2006 NOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!! NEVER do it F/T!!! 26 Lbft or 35 Nm, use a new bolt with shank as mentioned earlier, as well as a new Nyloc nut. F/T will risk damaging the bolt, as well as accelarating the wear of the hole where the pin goes leading to ovaling, and possible failure of the hub as well as the bolt, and that without even thinking about the damage it could cause to the balljoint pin itself. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris H 10 Posted December 21, 2006 Totally agree with welshpug, i always torque mine to 35Nm too. I've seen a few hubs crack where the bolts have been overtightened!! Have you considered the noise could be from the pad moving in the caliper? I ve had this happen before where the pad is allowed to move slightly and can make quite a noise for such little movement Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahl 4 Posted December 21, 2006 Totally agree, for f***s sake don't do it FT. If theres movement on the balljoint clamp hole then your hub carrier is scrap and you should replace it asap. It should be obvious by raising the car up and levering the wishbone/hub carrier slightly or by feeling for play in the wheel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
