Santas Been Early

[max0 5]

Thought id treat my self to a early xmass present in the form of some new suspension. Guess whos been a good boy this year

[Rippthrough 98]

Thought id treat my self to a early xmass present in the form of some new suspension. Guess whos been a good boy this year

 

 

You get to fit it in the cold though

[kyepan 291]

what length and stiffness springs did you order?

[calvinhorse 870]

cool i always wanted a pogo stick

[max0 5]

what length and stiffness springs did you order?

 

I got them from ebay for £225 inc postage and they hadnt even been opened. The springs are 8" 250lbs - will that be ok for road use? you got me worried now...

 

yeah ill try and find a nice day over the xmass break to get them fitted and report back.

[johnrobertgordon 0]

I'm not sure but I feel 250lbs is a bit harsh? Don't quote me on that though, I could be wrong.

[max0 5]

I'm not sure but I feel 250lbs is a bit harsh? Don't quote me on that though, I could be wrong.

 

Im doing a search and it looks like it is a bit harsh for road use. Ive got a 2.0 8v turbo to go in so maybe that will help things with the added wieght? Ill try em out and see how it goes, can always change the springs and keep these if i do a track day

 

Andy

Edited December 19, 2006 by max0

[Rippthrough 98]

Im doing a search and it looks like it is a bit harsh for road use. Ive got a 2.0 8v turbo to go in so maybe that will help things with the added wieght? Ill try em out and see how it goes, can always change the springs and keep these if i do a track day

 

Andy

 

Springs are cheap as chips anyway.

[kyepan 291]

yer i would go for some 10" ones, as i found the 8" ones didn't have enough travel for back roads. stiffness is up to you, 250 was harsh, 200 feels less welded to the road. its a balance and personal choice i guess. mine was an mi16 engine.

[max0 5]

yer i would go for some 10" ones, as i found the 8" ones didn't have enough travel for back roads. stiffness is up to you, 250 was harsh, 200 feels less welded to the road. its a balance and personal choice i guess. mine was an mi16 engine.

 

im going to try the springs as they are as i like a solid ride, but if I feel its too harsh i will change them. Just been thinking and ive been in wurzels car which was quite solid. his setup 23mm Torsion bars, 25mm ARB, Group A solid beam mounting kit, GAZ Coilover shock kit with 275lb front springs.

 

Has anyone found a way to do the top nut up? As ive noticed it doesnt have the hole for the allen key?

[j-16 1]

I guess Wurzels car will very be well balanced with "23mm Torsion bars, 25mm ARB, Group A solid beam mounting kit" and hard front springs but surely yours will be understeary with a very hard front and softish back. I guess you could set the rear shocks to hard but then most of your damping will be done by the shocks rather than the torsion bars which i imagine is less than ideal. I've gone for 10" 200llb coilovers and will hopefully soon fit uprated torsion bars and rear ARB.

[max0 5]

I guess Wurzels car will very be well balanced with "23mm Torsion bars, 25mm ARB, Group A solid beam mounting kit" and hard front springs but surely yours will be understeary with a very hard front and softish back. I guess you could set the rear shocks to hard but then most of your damping will be done by the shocks rather than the torsion bars which i imagine is less than ideal. I've gone for 10" 200llb coilovers and will hopefully soon fit uprated torsion bars and rear ARB.

 

interesting theory... ill look into it as I'm no suspension expert. However i would have thought Gaz would know what they are doing and it shouldnt be too understeary with the standard gti beam - which the shocks / springs are designed for? I am also on the look out for a 309 beam as a cheap way to upgrade the TB's and ARB.

 

I mentioned wurzels car as he has 270 springs up front on the road and i didnt feel it was too harsh, but it did feel very planted.

[j-16 1]

I'm certainly no expert either! My 10" 200llb Gaz coilovers are in a box next to me, we'll have to compare notes once we've both fitted them.

 

Good luck!

[j-16 1]

..............except mine cost 365 direct from Brian Gazzard.

[easypug 0]

..............except mine cost 365 direct from Brian Gazzard.

 

Any chance of some contact details?

[j-16 1]

I saw a set on ebay but missed the end of the auction so i contacted the seller: wcg869

 

He then emailed me back with the email addy: Ryan Christopher <ryanfrog@hotmail.com>

 

He then sent me a paypal invoice with the email addy: Brian Gazzard (elephantgaz@aol.com)

 

I guess Ryan Christopher may work for Brian Gazzard? The parcel came direct from Gaz and I was able to specify the exact spec i wanted.

 

I think you could do a bit better than my 365 delivered as the guy seemed quite keen (although he wouldn't give me the 350 other forum members have previously gotten due to a recent price increase from gaz (????)) , apparently they made a batch of 205 coilovers last Tue ie 19th Dec.

 

Hope that helps.

 

James

[easypug 0]

Cool thanks, I'm after the Gaz compitition fronts only. I'll send him a message on ebay and see where i get from there.

 

Thanks again..

[Rippthrough 98]

im going to try the springs as they are as i like a solid ride, but if I feel its too harsh i will change them. Just been thinking and ive been in wurzels car which was quite solid. his setup 23mm Torsion bars, 25mm ARB, Group A solid beam mounting kit, GAZ Coilover shock kit with 275lb front springs.

 

Has anyone found a way to do the top nut up? As ive noticed it doesnt have the hole for the allen key?

 

 

Hold the shaft with either a strap wrench or an old fan belt.

[frodo_monkey 0]

Hi Andy,

 

Bring the car over to mine if you want and we can fit the kit here? I have an impact wrench for the top nut... My labour is always free as well - particularly if you have some bolts to fix an XU engine to an engine stand!

 

Merry Xmas and all that,

 

Si

[max0 5]

help - tried to fit the rear shocks today, the nearside one was fine took about 20 minutes but the off side one has got me stumped (after about 4 hours) The shock has seized onto the lower shock bolt which is also sized into the trailing arm.

 

The nut came of fine but the shock/bolt are sized but the nut is off Ive tried wd-40, heat, whacking it with a small hammer (both ways), more heat, wiggling the shock like crazy,

 

i ended up getting a huge hammer out of the shed and thinking to my self "you wanna play rough? ok, say hello to my little friend" scarface style.. Sparks and rigging ears followed but the bolt or the shock hasn't budged.

 

I don't really want to have to cut the shock off or drill the bolt out anyone got any other ideas?

Edited December 26, 2006 by max0

[Rippthrough 98]

Undo the top of the damper and twist it around the bolt to see if it will free off?

[max0 5]

Undo the top of the damper and twist it around the bolt to see if it will free off?

 

the top bolt came off fine, as the shock is sized onto the bolt i can only move the shock slightly, I've tried wiggling it to free it but it springs back to where it was.

[Rippthrough 98]

the top bolt came off fine, as the shock is sized onto the bolt i can only move the shock slightly, I've tried wiggling it to free it but it springs back to where it was.

 

 

Hmm, I would have though with the length of the damper that pulling on the top of it would soon crack it loose, that's well and truly stuck then

[smighall 1]

Can you get a socket/spanner on the bolt head and try and free it off that way?

[Wurzel 16]

Last time I had this mate I had to get pretty brutal with the bolt end and a hammer. Needless to say the bolt didn't look too good at the end and I needed to cut the mushroomed head off (despite having a nut on the end to try and protect the thread).

 

Resign yourself to getting a new nut and bolt, and crack on with a bigger hammer. Eventually it will move and become easy. I had to use a hack saw but then I like hard work (read not got around to buying an angle grinder yet). They do go in the end.

 

I had to get the bolt from Pug as I couldn't find one with the hex head large enough to locate in the casted slot in the trailing arm. If it isn't the right size, it will spin unless you spot weld it, and it will be difficult to do up due to the recess the head is in ie no grip with a spanner.

 

I'll have a look in my box of bolts, I may have one that can be reused but you'll need the nut.