Steering Rack Issues?

[westy 0]

Hi,

 

Currently having some problems with my '90 1.6 GTi. The steering is very heavy dead centre, making the car very difficult to drive.

 

I've spoken to a couple of people, and they said it was probably the steering rack - is that correct?

 

Now, if it is the rack, should I replace with standard, or is there a more recommended solution? Its a non-PAS car by the way, although I could be tempted to upgrade to PAS if its cost effective.

 

What else should I replace while i'm there? track rod ends?

 

Thanks

[hengti 2]

is it stiff at centre, then loose, then stiff again as you move the wheel towards either lock?

 

if so, it could be the lower steering column universal joint

 

easiest way to check it is to lift both front wheels off the ground and move the wheel from lock to lock - if you're getting alternate stiff/loose spots, it'll be one of the universal joints (most likely the lower column one)

 

ed. if you're not getting the above symptoms, maybe it just needs tracking up. or new top mount bearings

Edited December 14, 2006 by hengti

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

I'd steer (Sorry) towards the U/J on the coloum, I had this on a 405 Mi but it was the internal one not the rack one so check both

[lagonda 41]

Hi,

Recently posted an item headed I think "Tight spots in steering" which should help.

[westy 0]

would spraying some WD40 on the lower U/J help for now?

[hengti 2]

co-incidentally, i did actually try that on mine - it didn't work

 

i think lagonda had some success in taking the joint off and working some lubricant in, but i'd say it'd be v difficult to achieve just by spraying it whilst it's still on the car - should imagine you need to work the joint by hand

 

you need to be sure it's that joint first though. if the 'jack the car up' test proves positive, next step is to take the o/s wheel off and disconnect the lower column from the steering rack (doesn't take long) - then you can feel for stiffness in the u/j by hand - it should be completely free in either direction. if it isn't it'll need to come off, either for replacement or proper lubrication

[westy 0]

you need to be sure it's that joint first though. if the 'jack the car up' test proves positive, next step is to take the o/s wheel off and disconnect the lower column from the steering rack (doesn't take long) - then you can feel for stiffness in the u/j by hand - it should be completely free in either direction. if it isn't it'll need to come off, either for replacement or proper lubrication

 

Is it just the bottom bit of the column that'd need replacing, the piece about 3 inches long?

[hengti 2]

Is it just the bottom bit of the column that'd need replacing, the piece about 3 inches long?

 

still depends if it's a u/j problem at all. you need to run the checks before you buy any bits - it could be something else.

 

if you're getting alternately stiff/loose steering from the 'jacked up' test and the lower column u/j is ok once you've disconnected and checked it, it's going to be the upper column u/j. it's easier to check the lower column first than it is the upper column.

 

if it is the lower column, you'll need to disconnect the upper column to get it off anyway. the lower column starts at the splined bit that is clamped to the upper column in the driver's footwell; it's a 'one piece' assembly that incorporates the grommet that goes through the floor, the u/j under the car and the clamp that connects it to the steering rack. i think it's in Haynes, but it's all fairly straightforward to take apart anyway.

[westy 0]

co-incidentally, i did actually try that on mine - it didn't work

 

i think lagonda had some success in taking the joint off and working some lubricant in, but i'd say it'd be v difficult to achieve just by spraying it whilst it's still on the car - should imagine you need to work the joint by hand

 

you need to be sure it's that joint first though. if the 'jack the car up' test proves positive, next step is to take the o/s wheel off and disconnect the lower column from the steering rack (doesn't take long) - then you can feel for stiffness in the u/j by hand - it should be completely free in either direction. if it isn't it'll need to come off, either for replacement or proper lubrication

 

Is it possible to take the lower U/J apart without removing half the steering column? I don't have a lot of time to work on the car!

[hengti 2]

it's not possible to dismantle the u/j at all.

 

i guess it might well be possible to work some lubricant into the lower u/j by hand whilst it was still fitted to the car (but obviously disconnected) - fiddly work though - not alot of room. i don't know what process lagonda went through with his to lubricate it - maybe wait for his opinion.

 

if it made the difference between a proper job and a bodge (it is your steering!), i'd bite the bullet and take it all apart

[westy 0]

looks like i'm struggling to work for the next couple of days before I get the whole day to do it

 

How long should the whole process take?

[hengti 2]

you need to get the diagnosis straight first mate - finding out what's actually wrong is often the hardest part!

 

providing you've got the appropriate tools, it obviously won't take you long to jack both sides of the car up and test the steering feel. from that point, i'd say it'd maybe take you half an hour to whip the wheel off, disconnect the lower column u/j, waggle it about for a few seconds and have it all put back together again.

 

taking the column off would likely take a while, especially if you've not done it before. i'd say half an afternoon - ?

 

 

do the tests first

[westy 0]

you need to get the diagnosis straight first mate - finding out what's actually wrong is often the hardest part!

 

I haven't actually got a pair of axle stands here - I'm living with my girlfriend and her family right now - all our tools are at my parent's house 100 miles away! So i'm going to pop to the garage down the road and ask them to just raise the car for me on one of their ramps, so that I can have a play.

 

 

providing you've got the appropriate tools, it obviously won't take you long to jack both sides of the car up and test the steering feel. from that point, i'd say it'd maybe take you half an hour to whip the wheel off, disconnect the lower column u/j, waggle it about for a few seconds and have it all put back together again.

 

taking the column off would likely take a while, especially if you've not done it before. i'd say half an afternoon - ?

do the tests first

 

I've got a basic socket set and a few ring spanners here, would that suffice, or would I need something more intricate?

 

Thanks

[hengti 2]

sockets, spanners, screwdrivers, hammer should be ok

 

raising the car on ramps won't work though - you need to get both front wheels off the ground, so that you can run the rack through its travel without any weight on the wheels. see if the garage will let you stick a trolley jack under either side

[westy 0]

done!

 

The stiffness is still there though, so I'm going to have it apart on sunday and have a play with it.

 

replacement part from Peugeot is £65 though :/

[lagonda 41]

Further to my post, it might be possible to remove the intermediate shaft, ie the one with the lower u/j without disturbing the steering wheel/upper column/u/j assembly IF like mine the drive spigot on the rack is square as opposed to splined. You would need to remove the bolt from the upper u/j and lower u/j, prise the jaws of the safety spring clip apart (at the bottom of the lower u/j), easy job with fingers, & at same time push the open face of the lower u/j away from the rack spigot. Given clearance, the intermediate shaft should then just pull through the bulkhead grommet. If it doesn't, you should at least be able to check for stiffness in BOTH planes of the u/j whilst it's hanging there.

The upper u/j is very protected where it is and wear/rust there would I think be unlikely. There is no way spraying or dripping oil on the u/j will refresh it, you will have to take it off to lubricate, & it's quite fiddly. Best to clean it up first, then you will see there are thin black rubber "V" section seals on the X piece (which is why trying to lubricate in situ won't work, as the seals will STOP oil getting in). With the point of a not too sharp penknife blade inserted between the edge of the seal and the bearing (ie NOT next to the X piece), push down until the point meets metal, then lever gently but firmly back, which will JUST expose the bearing enough to dribble drops of oil down the blade. They will slowly seep into the bearing. Best to repeat a number of times, manipulating the u/j to & fro. If it's like mine, one moment it will be tight, the next free. If you've been careful with the blade, the seal will resume its shape.

All that said, the very slight free play this revealed in my u/j has in fact meant about .25 inch of freeplay at the steering wheel itself (QUESTION: is that bad enough for MoT failure?), and I realise that might in turn get worse fairly quickly if the problem is rust as opposed to hardened grease causing the tightness, & I think the brown staining means rust is the problem.

Anyway, at least it has left my steering nice & smooth. Hope this helps.

[lagonda 41]

Just a furtherr thought ... you DON'T need to jack up, put on ramps or remove any wheels IF all you need to do is check the lower u/j. To be fair I'm talking with the luxury (huh, rather have the damn thing running) of the cylinder head & exhaust manifold off the car, access might be impossible from above with everything in place. Assuming you can reach it from above, you would need to turn the steering so that you have the best accessibility to the u/j. No problem turning it with the bolt out, just don't try driving it like that!

IF the problem turns out not to be the u/j, you can in fact turn the rack spigot (assuming again it's square) with an open ended spanner (17mm I think), but then you would need to have both HUBS jacked up. Necessary to jack under the hubs so that you are then testing the steering in its normal position. If you jack elsewhere, the suspension will hang down, with the result that tight spots might well appear which in fact would not be there with the suspension sitting normally.