c_r_thomson 0 Posted October 22, 2006 Hi all, Just finished my carb conversion and will be starting the car 2moro after i fit my exhaust. There are two holes in my new inlet manifold where one of them is used for the brake servo assist. Can the other one be routed to the vacuum advance under the dizzy or is it best to blank it off and lose the vaccum altogether? Cheers, Craig Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c_r_thomson 0 Posted October 22, 2006 No ideas, cos i'm off to get it tuned this week so i want the best setup possible Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
205007 12 Posted October 22, 2006 just leave it mate the vac advance does fcuk all anyway! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,627 Posted October 22, 2006 (edited) does it only take vac off one runner? it would be better if it took vac off at least 2, not sure if it would be worth using otherwise, best off getting the dizzy rebuilt to your spec then getting it all set up. it does do quite a difference as the static advance is 11 degrees IIRC, but changes up to 30 degrees in the right conditions, and as you know having a mapped ignition system can extract soo much more smooth BHP than a crude dizzy can. search for H & H ignition solutions. Edited October 22, 2006 by welshpug Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jacobs53 0 Posted October 22, 2006 just leave it mate the vac advance does fcuk all anyway! What do you mean by this? Why did all from 70's - 90's have it fitted? lee Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
205mattgti 0 Posted October 23, 2006 I am running twin webber 45 carbs on my 1.9gti, on the inlet manifold at the moment i only am using one vacuum hole for the brake server, and the other one is blocked off. But i am going to be putting another pipe on the blocked off one so i have 2 vacuum pipes for the brake server as if u break really hard when cold and at low revs it can stall the vehicle. i dont use the vacuum advance for the dizzy, u dont need to. a lot of my friends with carbs dont use it either. Hope this helps Matt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rescue dude 0 Posted October 23, 2006 As Welshpug said you don't need to run the vacuum advance with carbs. The dizzy needs to be rebuilt with an advanced torque curve. If this is done the vacuum advance can be removed. I run twin Webers and had my dizzy done at H&H ignition services at a very reasonable cost. I have a few more horsepower, more torque and no problems at all. Give them a ring and they'll put you right. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
205mattgti 0 Posted October 23, 2006 Have u got their number please mate as i am still running a standard dizzy. cheers matt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bales 1 Posted October 23, 2006 What do you mean by this? Why did all from 70's - 90's have it fitted? lee I have run my car with it both on and off, and to be honest with the sort of drives I do i.e not constant throttle all the time, it has hardly made any difference to my mpg. Maybe if you drive everywhere on part throttle at constant speed you may see more of a difference, however I wouldn't bother having one myself. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
205mattgti 0 Posted October 23, 2006 i havent had any problems using my standard dizzy and when i had my rolling road session, i had a nice power curve with no dips in the power. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c_r_thomson 0 Posted October 23, 2006 Thanks for all the advice guys. I'll run it without one until i get the dizzy done. Can't start it yet cos i've got no spark for some reason! The wiring diagram on the main site:- Is that all the wiring need cos i removed my ecu and loom and was trying to make the most of the original coil. Got annoyed and went and bought a universal coil with only the two connections and the hi tension bit. Will try rearranging my wiring 2moro (Got the exhaust fitted after alot of cut'n'shut! The OMP grp N was nowhere near the originals shape ) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
m.i-man 0 Posted October 24, 2006 Thanks for all the advice guys. I'll run it without one until i get the dizzy done. Can't start it yet cos i've got no spark for some reason! The wiring diagram on the main site:- Is that all the wiring need cos i removed my ecu and loom and was trying to make the most of the original coil. Got annoyed and went and bought a universal coil with only the two connections and the hi tension bit. Will try rearranging my wiring 2moro (Got the exhaust fitted after alot of cut'n'shut! The OMP grp N was nowhere near the originals shape ) I found the same problem with the write up on the main site. Couldn't get mine to work with a ph1 coil either. Ended up sourcing an 8v loom (as mine was mi) to be able to run the tachymetric relay as I had nothing at one point. Are you using a remote fuel pump? Or the std in tank pick up? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c_r_thomson 0 Posted October 24, 2006 I've got a remote fuel pump mounted in the engine bay. The original fuel pump was replaced with some copper pipe instead. The pump runs and the engine turns over fine so i'll try playing with the wiring! So the bare minimum wiring as per the diagram doesn't work? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
m.i-man 0 Posted October 24, 2006 (edited) I've got a remote fuel pump mounted in the engine bay. The original fuel pump was replaced with some copper pipe instead. The pump runs and the engine turns over fine so i'll try playing with the wiring! So the bare minimum wiring as per the diagram doesn't work? Exact same symptons mine had. It propably does, looking at the diagram it should work... but for some reason I couldn't get it running. I had a total of four people trying it out, and all we acheived were two blown coils!!. I had 3 different coils, and 3 different ignition amplifier modules, but still no joy. It wasn't until Paul (pugtwin40's) came round that we managed to get her to run, but this was only by using his loom off of his Goodwood. This is when I sourced a new loom as we knew it could run by this system!! I have a remote pump in the engine bay too. Did you put the copper pipe in the baffle of the tank? Or just into to the bottom of the tank? I did mine so it sat in the baffle and bent the end slightly so not to pick up sediment off of the base.: No idea if it is correct, but it seems to run fine, although not being road worthy it's hard to tell under driving conditions. I just pray the baffle does it's job! Edited October 24, 2006 by m.i-man Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c_r_thomson 0 Posted October 24, 2006 Yeah mate, mine is just in the baffle too. Gonna go and try wiring it up as per the diagram now. I'll let you know how i get on later. Just made a twin inlet for the brake servo to use up both the hole on the manifold so i'll fit that too, laters Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c_r_thomson 0 Posted October 24, 2006 IT LIVES! That diagram is spot on and it fired up first time! What a noise, Can't take it out for a drive yet as i've no bonnet or coolant yet! Cheers for the advice guys. tata Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
