Studs And Nuts

[mbayley77 0]

There seems to be huge price differences looking around for these things.

 

Anyone bought from here on ebay?

 

Clicky Here

 

Cheers

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

They look like the Grayston ones, You can buy direct from them cheaper than that or I know Graham (pugtorque) arranged a group buy from them last yr.

[mbayley77 0]

if they are greyston ones will they be of quality suitable for rallying? (tarmac)

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

I've never had a problem with them and my Race car used them for 4 years without a problem, The only thing that does happen is the nut's corrode up if not greased often,

I don't think anyone on the forum has had any problems (Famous last words)

[205007 12]

they are pretty good value if they are as good as miles suggests

 

im sure the tas ones were about £90

[jackherer 543]

I don't think anyone on the forum has had any problems (Famous last words)

 

I've got them on three 205s and a couple of nuts on one of them came apart while undoing them and got stuck on the stud. This was while we were putting track wheels on for a day at bruntingthorpe so we got stuck for a while until we were helped out with a drill to get them off. They were probably over (or under) tightened by my mate, I doubt they would have done it under normal circumstances, but due to the design of the nuts it was very hard to remove the remaining collar and cost us half a trackday.

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

They look like the ones from Grayston who supply Rally designs & others so should be more than strong enough for Tarmac rallying.

 

Like Miles said, I arrangd a few group buys from them last year, I've not had any problems with mine yet & the only stud I've had shear was one on a rear beam I bought which I suspect had been over tightened by the previous owner & that happened when I was swapping wheels. TBH thats not a bad price for them either.

 

Graham.

[MartinM 0]

I guess you have to compare what the other view of stud conversions is:

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=330005001538

 

and make your own mind up.

 

I'm minded to get some for my car, so if I'm definitely going to buy, then is it worth, to me, the incremental £50 to get the 'official' ones?

 

I would probably say yes, for my circumstances, where I could be cursing that I'd lost an expensive entry fee or worse, for the sake of £50

 

If I was buying for bragging rights in the pub/online forums/for sale advert, then I'd buy cheap

 

Interesting to note that the Peugeot ones seem to have a deeper section going into the hub - more so even given that the cheaper ones are 15mm longer overall?

Edited October 11, 2006 by MartinM

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

Strangely enough the one I had shear was an original PTS one.

 

These same studs & nuts are sold by many other rallyprep places such as WMMS, TAS & others.

 

These studs have the correct amount of thread to go flush to the back of the drive flange, the PTS ones go through by a few mm.

 

Why that makes such a difference to strength is beyond me.

 

Also the PTS ones have a thicker shoulder which bottoms against the drive flange & if over tightened will cause them to shear, just like my one did.

 

Oddly, nobody on has bought them for bragging rights anyway.

 

Graham.

[MartinM 0]

I'm pretty ambivalent towards either TBH and I'm not even convinced that either type are particularly good value for money in terms of what they provide. Although studs are probably a better idea than bolts overall.

 

IMHO...

Strangely enough the one I had shear was an original PTS one.

Interesting. See below

 

These same studs & nuts are sold by many other rallyprep places such as WMMS, TAS & others.

ABMotorsport will only sell you the PTS ones.

The WMMS web site seem to have a picture of the cheaper ones, but are at the PTS price level

 

These studs have the correct amount of thread to go flush to the back of the drive flange, the PTS ones go through by a few mm.

 

Why that makes such a difference to strength is beyond me.

It's surely the material that makes the difference, not the amount that they go into the flange. Go into a nut'n'bolt shop and ask for high tensile bolts and they are, in my experience, anodised matt'ish black as the PTS ones are pictured to be. The cheaper ones look like standard plated mild steel to me.

 

Whether that makes a material (ouch!) difference in this application is the debating point I suppose

 

I suspect that cross-threading a nut, whilst in a hurry, will strip the just the thread of the nut if you've got HT studs, but do equal damage to the nut and the stud if they are both MS. Then I know which set I'd rather have

 

On other production cars that use studs, is the OEM fit HT or MS? Might be a clue there. I don't know the answer myself.

 

I know that on Escort Group 4 hubs the studs are HT (and I've cross-threaded a nut big time on one of those and only damaged the nut - still a big oops!)

 

Also the PTS ones have a thicker shoulder which bottoms against the drive flange & if over tightened will cause them to shear, just like my one did.

Whereas the cheaper ones will just stretch I suppose.

 

Not sure which one I'd rather have...

 

Oddly, nobody on has bought them for bragging rights anyway.

Do you think they would tell you?

Edited October 11, 2006 by MartinM

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

It's surely the material that makes the difference, not the amount that they go into the flange. Go into a nut'n'bolt shop and ask for high tensile bolts and they are, in my experience, anodised matt'ish black as the PTS ones are pictured to be. The cheaper ones look like standard plated mild steel to me.

 

Whether that makes a material (ouch!) difference in this application is the debating point I suppose

You'd have to speak to Grayston to find what spec of material they use but I think they would be plated HT as MS would stretch after repeated torquing of the nuts wouldn't it?

I suspect that cross-threading a nut, whilst in a hurry, will strip the just the thread of the nut if you've got HT studs, but do equal damage to the nut and the stud if they are both MS. Then I know which set I'd rather have

If I cross threaded a nut I'd replace both the nut & stud anyway as the stud thread will get damaged to an extent

Also the PTS ones have a thicker shoulder which bottoms against the drive flange & if over tightened will cause them to shear, just like my one did.

Whereas the cheaper ones will just stretch I suppose.

The cheaper ones will continue to wind into the hub afaik as the shoulder is slightly thinner than the threads

 

Do you think they would tell you?

Having been a on this forum for quite a while now, I don't know of any people on here that I've met who use any part of their 205's spec for pub bragging rights.

 

Graham.

[damien 22 1 Cars]

ive got some Rally design ones on my gti6 and have never had a problem, i did cross thread a nut becasue i was in a rush, just phoned rally design telling them and they gave me a new one on exchance for the old one

[Chris H 10]

I've been selling the grayston stuff for ages and probably done 100 sets now, only had one problem so far and thats due to not clearing the rust y thread in the hub before fitting them. I normally run a tap through first.

[SimonJ 2]

wmms.co.uk have a special offer on kits at the moment (or when I last looked last week), about £45.

[mbayley77 0]

Just ordered a set. 45 + a tenner postage.

At least a reputable place rather than buying off of ebay and having problems (perhaps!)

[rogerrally 0]

Bought a set off ebay, with both coned nuts for compomotive rally wheels, and flanged nuts for road speedlines. Thers no raised section to tighten up between the inner and outer threads, so the stud just turns all the way through the rear drum shoes, untill rust gives them something to bind on to (each length will be different then), or use super glue/ screwlock to keep them inplace. The studs are 12mm, not high tensile but the road car speedlines have 13mm clearance holes, and the original bolts have 13mm shanks to help locate/ center the wheel when fitting, these studs do not though. I put some tape round the botton of the exposed stud to help keep the wheel in place because of the flat headed nuts allow some slight movement, before all 4 are equally tightened. Obviously the Ebay seller didnt bother replying to my observations/ request for fitting help tips for non technical users.

[MartinM 0]

^^^^^^