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davemar

Clutch Cable Removal

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davemar

I've noticed I've been having to adjust my clutch cable a fair bit recently, so I suspect it's started to stretch and will need replacing.

 

I'm having great difficulty in getting it out of the pedal box, not helped by the lack of access behind the Mi16 head and the brake servo unit. There seems to be a rubber bung holding it in, and can't just pull it out. What's the best way of attacking this thing?

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jamesc

Mine was a pain in the ass!

 

I ended up un bolting the peddle.

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Alastairh

Undo the pedal inside the car its a 16 ish mm bolt and nut, unclip, and get under the car and yank the cable out.

 

Fitting is reverse of removal.

 

Alastair

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pugrallye

lube it up man!!! (the rubber bung, lol)

get under car once disconnected from pedal and tug it real hard, it will come.

 

refitting is really simple, just connect up both ends, tension cable up on arm and press pedal, and bung etc will put itself in place

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Jonmurgie

Yes, you DO have to remove the pedal to get the clip off it... a PITA but there you go :P

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findlay

LOL... you make it sound so easy... It really is a bitch of a job (especially with rollcage doorbars in the way) and requires patience. I think I swore at the car more on that job than any other :P

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Dream Weaver

And here's another tip - when refitting the cable I struggled for ages using loads of grease, trying to get the rubber bung back into the holder under the brake servo.

 

Soon realised, by pressing the clutch pedal it automatically locates the bung for you :)

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davemar
And here's another tip - when refitting the cable I struggled for ages using loads of grease, trying to get the rubber bung back into the holder under the brake servo.

 

Soon realised, by pressing the clutch pedal it automatically locates the bung for you :ph34r:

 

Yes, I found that technique worked.

 

I've now got another problem. Before I replaced the cable, the old one was clearly stretching, but still worked OK (but obviously not for much longer, hence me changing it). Now I've fitted the new one, the clutch is unbelievably stiff. The cable doesn't appear to be catching on anything and moves smoothly. It's almost as if the clutch itself has gone far stiffer somehow.

Also the pedal doesn't spring back properly now, it just lazily drifts back up into position. Could I have done something to the spring?

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Jim miami blue gti

i manged to do it with the pedal in place. It's where my little girly hands come in handy lol

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Guest CB-Dave
Yes, I found that technique worked.

 

I've now got another problem. Before I replaced the cable, the old one was clearly stretching, but still worked OK (but obviously not for much longer, hence me changing it). Now I've fitted the new one, the clutch is unbelievably stiff. The cable doesn't appear to be catching on anything and moves smoothly. It's almost as if the clutch itself has gone far stiffer somehow.

Also the pedal doesn't spring back properly now, it just lazily drifts back up into position. Could I have done something to the spring?

 

sounds like it's the clutch that's on it's way out and not the cable...

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davemar
sounds like it's the clutch that's on it's way out and not the cable...

 

I found the rubber surround on the clutch arm was a bit distorted and jamming a bit between the lever arm. Removing this seemed to free it up a fair bit.

 

The clutch isn't very old at all, so I hope it's not on the way out. It's a Mi16 clutch, which I fitted new less than a year ago. My previous 8v clutch which I replaced it with was in very good condition when I removed after at least 7 years of use, so I don't tend to eat clutches - I don't park like an old woman :blink:.

Apart from the clutch slipped (which this one doesn't), what symptoms can I expect from a clutch on its way out?

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davemar

I now thinking it is the clutch that needs replacing...

 

I took it out for a spin last night and while the clutch pedel felt quite heavy it was changing gears OK. But after about 20 mins of driving the biting point just got lower and lower and the gear changing got harder. In the end I had to struggle back to my garage in 2nd gear, and had to turn the engine off to change gear to get it back into the garage. The new clutch cable still looked fine, so the clutch is obviously the problem. I assume there's an issue with the contact between the thrust bearing and the clutch splines. Bugger...more expense and ages under the car.

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Alastairh

Yeah sounds like it.

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davemar

I'm curious to why it should have worn out so quickly? I'm sure it was a Valeo unit I bought, and the thrust bearing was even newer and from a Pug dealer too.

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jackherer

is it a be1 (lift up reverse)?

 

if so is the clutch arm bending?

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Guest CB-Dave
I now thinking it is the clutch that needs replacing...

 

I took it out for a spin last night and while the clutch pedel felt quite heavy it was changing gears OK. But after about 20 mins of driving the biting point just got lower and lower and the gear changing got harder. In the end I had to struggle back to my garage in 2nd gear, and had to turn the engine off to change gear to get it back into the garage. The new clutch cable still looked fine, so the clutch is obviously the problem. I assume there's an issue with the contact between the thrust bearing and the clutch splines. Bugger...more expense and ages under the car.

 

just thinking out loud here, but you did put the locknut on the end of the clutch cable (where you wind it to adjust the bite) didn't you? if that's slack it would lead to the falling pedal symptoms you describe...

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jagdtiger

I had a cluth problem which i could not solve in a ph1, turned out to be a bent bit of metal where the cable was attached to. It was bugginbg me for ages, even had a clutch change, but my friend spotted the bent bit of metal.

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hengti

assume you adjusted it correctly once you'd fitted it - ?

 

135mm pedal stroke

Edited by hengti

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davemar

I had adjusted it correctly, and the two nuts where tightened up against each other, so they didn't slip. On removing the lever arm (it's a BE1 box) it seemed fine.

I'll try and remove the gearbox tonight and see what's happened more clearly. I can't really see enough through those little holes in the gearbox casing.

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davemar

The job has now been done. The problem in the end wasn't the clutch, although I replaced it anyway as I bought a new one, but the lever in the gearbox. The plastic pivot socket thing which clamps onto the ball joint had virtually come off the arm. So it was moving a couple of cms away from the pivot point, no wonder it wouldn't engage properly! Fortuantely I had a spare old gearbox lying around which had a good arm on it, so I replaced it with that. It's now a lot better to drive, I can actually change gear!

 

I still hate taking the gearbox off and on, it always seems to end up more hassle each time. One of these days my back is going to let go trying to maneouvre that thing into place.

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davemar

Aghhh!

What is going on with this car?

I thought I had it all working perfectly now, the gearchange was nice and crisp and the new clutch was biting nice and hard. But while driving into London last night, the biting point got lower and lower again, and I ended up having to drive the last 30 minutes stuck in 2nd gear. It made parking impossible at the end, I couldn't get into reverse.

Anyway, I readjusted the clutch cable and managed to make it drivable again. I managed to get into work OK this morning with it, but the weather was cooler and I didn't have to stop so often.

 

The pedel now sits really high, and I feel like I'm back where I started! Surely the pivot on this new (OK, it's not brand new) arm has started to fail. I really can't see what else can cause this, as there's a new clutch and new cable on there. There isn't much left to go wrong! Any ideas?

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davemar

Problem solved... I hope.

The two plastic bushes that sit inside the pivot of the lever arm had worn away, so it was pretty floppy and sitting at an angle. Two new bushes and 52p later, the clutch seems nice and taught, and got me to work this morning. Hopefully that's the job done.

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