What Could Be Wrong If My Car Does This?

[Natasha 1]

I was driving along the motorway at a constant 75mph and it blipped a few times which its been doing for a while. Then it lost complete power (like Id switched the ignition off for a few seconds) and then it came back on. After 5 minutes it did it again but lost power for longer and I slowed from 75 down to about 30.

 

Then, a few days later after it not doing it again, it blipped, then a few minutes later lost power like it did before then stalled. I couldnt get it started immediately but that might have been more to do with the immobiliser.

 

Simon tried taking it to work this morning and it blipped a lot then before hed travelled a mile it lost power like it did before.

 

Hes already replaced the ignition module.

 

Any ideas? Also all the gauges stayed normal ie temperature, etc, plenty of quality fuel, etc.

 

Thanks, Natasha

 

 

or was it the coil module - I loose track on what we're replaced on that car.

[t16ryan 1]

Is it fitted with the wet coil in the N/S inner wing, could be loose connection on the coil is common? or fuel pressure problem possibly pump?

[Rob_the_Sparky 9]

If it cuts suddenly then I doubt it is fuel pump, I'd expect the power loss to be more gradual as it looses fuel rail pressure but I could be wrong.

 

I've had my car stop due to loose coil connections in the past but also recently had my 309 loosing power due to anignition amp and this was intermittant and gradually became worse until it failed altogether but this is done.

 

Maybe loose connection or corrosion in the wire from the dizzy to the ignition amp?

 

Rob

[KRISKARRERA 2 1 Cars]

What engine have you got in there now?

[Guest davey o]

hi,

 

the same thing happened to me today.

i spent yesterday putting on a new headlight, indicator, bumper and spotlight and was pleased with my efforts.

 

i went for a drive today and after a while it started 'blipping' along the motorway.

 

it stalled a couple of times when i came to some lights and then started sputtering (no power at all, like i turned it off, then after a second it came back then a second later power went again etc etc. making me look like an arse trying to drive along). shortly after the sputtering and power returned it stalled and wouldnt start. a lot of pushing and a hand from two backpackers walking by i got it to my girlfriends aunties house.

it started at the aunties house though, so i dont think it is fuel pump?

 

would coil or ignition amp be the most likely suspects?

there was slight crash damage on the drivers side panel (hence the new lights and bumper)

 

its an 1989 1.9litre 8valve gti

 

thanks

dave

 

(ive got my haynes manual at home so ill have to dig it out and have a look at that too)

[Pug_101 0]

I remember a thread on here not too long ago with the same problem and I am sure it turned out to be Fuel Pump.

I'll try and find it using the search.

 

Found it:

thread

might give you a few ideas

 

Cheers

Edited July 2, 2006 by Pug_101

[d-9 0]

If it cuts suddenly then I doubt it is fuel pump, I'd expect the power loss to be more gradual as it looses fuel rail pressure but I could be wrong.

 

Generally when the fuel cuts it stutters a couple of times and dies, nothing gradual really.

 

If its a mi16 on standard management that sort of problem is likely to be a loose ignition live or ignition relay in the mi16 loom causing the power to cut to the ecu.

[Ahl 4]

When an 8v like davey o's starts cutting out, it can also be down to the tachymetric relay (fuel pump/injector relay). The solders tend to go on them, or they get dirty inside.

 

You'll find lots of info if you search for tachymetric relay.

[ada205 2]

Can any of the folks on this thread remember if the rev counters still reading when their cars cut out and your still coasting with the car in gear? If no ignition lights come on and you loose the rev counter, then dizzy or the lead from dizzy to amp are strong suspects. Also, as someone else mentioned, loose connections to coil if the early type also worth a try. I had a fault caused buy a loose coil wire where the car would only run whilst in gear and rolling. Stop or dip the clutch and it would die. Also would'nt start on the key...unless the car was rolling! Interesting trip home that night every time i came to a juntion or island!

 

Other usual suspects are as people have already said, ignition amp & coil, both likely to be worst when hot, loose connectins, and fuel pump and relay. If your car cuts out and wont start immediately, i always find it worth giving the tachy relay a thump whilst trying to restart. Worked for me on a few seperate occasions!

 

Good luck.

Edited July 2, 2006 by ada205

[Guest davey o]

Can any of the folks on this thread remember if the rev counters still reading when their cars cut out and your still coasting with the car in gear? If no ignition lights come on and you loose the rev counter, then dizzy or the lead from dizzy to amp are strong suspects. Also, as someone else mentioned, loose connections to coil if the early type also worth a try. I had a fault caused buy a loose coil wire where the car would only run whilst in gear and rolling. Stop or dip the clutch and it would die. Also would'nt start on the key...unless the car was rolling! Interesting trip home that night every time i came to a juntion or island!

 

Other usual suspects are as people have already said, ignition amp & coil, both likely to be worst when hot, loose connectins, and fuel pump and relay. If your car cuts out and wont start immediately, i always find it worth giving the tachy relay a thump whilst trying to restart. Worked for me on a few seperate occasions!

 

Good luck.

 

when the car lost power the rev counter went all the way down and then back up when power came back, i think it went all over the place too (right up to 6000ish and then all the way back down etc). after it stalled and wouldnt start it was turned off for about 5 or 10 minutes while it was being pushed, but started first time when i tried again, i thought it could have been over heating or something, but the oil temp guage was ok (my water temp guage is broken haha). the other week i had a small frontal crash. the car was fine on the way back home (no sputtering or stalling), a guy has told me that the afm's are easy to break, especially if been in a crash. could the afm be a problem?

[Pugnut 9 1 Cars]

if the rev co goes off and on its the ignition . Usually with mine it was the connector on the front of the distributor had broken down (the signal wire to the ignition amp). either the connector on the dizzy itself or the two (or is it 3) pin connector 12 inches or so down it . could also be ignition amp or coil.

[d-9 0]

If its a mi16 on standard management that sort of problem is likely to be a loose ignition live or ignition relay in the mi16 loom causing the power to cut to the ecu.

[Baz 421]

Funny this should come up as mine's doing almost exactly the same at the moment. It was only doing it when cold, in the first 5 minutes of starting, so wasn't too much of a worry, but it did it mid-corner the other night so am a little worried as if it does it when i'm pedalling along quite quickly it could be quite dangerous! First port of call would be immobiliser if it has one as mine does.

Edited July 3, 2006 by BazGTMi

[Natasha 1]

OK, weve now replaced dizzy cap and arm, ignition pack and coil. Simon has checked all of the connectors and still it has the fault.

 

I was on a busy main road yesterday when after approx 60 miles of driving with no problems, the engine kangarooed then stalled, after trying to start it numerous times I came to a stop, I managed to start it for a few more seconds and it died again.

 

Weve not got the time or money to keep trying to troubleshoot this car? Any more ideas?

[Rob_the_Sparky 9]

Nat,

 

Is the rev counter doing anything when cranking it? If not then it is (as said above) something killing the ignition as the rev counter takes its input from the coil.

 

Rob

[hd_andy 2]

Definately sounds like wiring.

 

Might be an idea to check the wiring from the ignition barrel to the connectors that clip onto the trim panel.

 

Also ignition amp wiring could be likely. Is it 405 wiring or BX?

[Doof 11]

Seems theres a few of us in this same boat. Mine started off doing the spluttering when it was hot but now does it all the time. And its getting more violent. Its very a much a "power...no power....power...no power" situation when im keeping the pedal dead steady.

 

I'm going on a a bit of a drive so expect to break down at some point. I'll be sure to post the results of any messing about I do on here.

 

Good luck with them guys and gal.

 

Lewis

[Rob_the_Sparky 9]

Doof sounds like mine - twas the ignition amp although it took me yonks to find it. Konked out on the MWay eventually, then I could work out what was dead. Nat has already change the ignition amp though...

[SPetrie 0]

Mines doing exactly the same, not all the time but on and off. Makes me a little warey of taking corners quickly, 'cos i don't fancy loads of unexpected LOOS ! Will try the tachymetric relay and ignition amp and see what happens. The revs drop to tick over and the car hasn't stalled yet.

 

Stu

[methebmxer 0]

Took my 1.9 for its first drive today since I dropped a new engine in and drove fine until after about 20 miles I gave it some stick and then after another couple miles it started to loose revs and when I would give it some throttle it was hesitant and jumpy. It eventually cut out after doing this for about a mile. I called out mr RAC and he checked a few things then took the dizzy cap off and found I had oil leaking in to the dizzy aswell as some strange looking bits of debris that as of yet I have not been able to identify. Gonna look at it tommorow and swap the dizzy which will hopefully be the problem. Mr RAC man did say the ignition amps can play up when the engine gets hot and then be fine when its cool again.

 

Dan

[d-9 0]

Seems theres a few of us in this same boat. Mine started off doing the spluttering when it was hot but now does it all the time. And its getting more violent. Its very a much a "power...no power....power...no power" situation when im keeping the pedal dead steady.

 

Thats classic behaviour of a dieing ignition amp. When you replace it, make sure you get the right one, veero spent ages troubleshooting his mi because eurocarprats had sold him the wrong amp.

[ada205 2]

OK, weve now replaced dizzy cap and arm, ignition pack and coil. Simon has checked all of the connectors and still it has the fault.

 

I was on a busy main road yesterday when after approx 60 miles of driving with no problems, the engine kangarooed then stalled, after trying to start it numerous times I came to a stop, I managed to start it for a few more seconds and it died again.

 

Weve not got the time or money to keep trying to troubleshoot this car? Any more ideas?

My money's still on the dizzy, and as you've changed just about everything else, it gotta be worth a try. I've had a few dizzy problems in the last few years, and every time a dizzy's died the symptoms have been almost identical to yours, so i'd definately check the dizzy, which is obviously a main suspect anyway if the rev counters not reading when the engines cut out and the cars still coasting in gear. The dizzy lead is also possible. Only other suspects left that can cause sudden cut out is tachy relay & fuel pump, though you wouldnt lose the rev counter untill you dip the clutch if these were to blame, or a loose connection or wire somewhere, though you would expect this to show more under certain conditions like hard excelleration/braking or cornering, and would probably be far more on/off rarther than total cut out.

 

Good luck.

[C_W 3 1 Cars]

Not sure what this engine is for but I had similar troujble on my Mi16 and it was a relay in the loom (the brown one). Was like this on and off for about 18months, sometimes never did it, then did it loads. Only fixed it once pugtorque fitted a spare relay on the Eurotunnel

[Guest davey o]

a guy who is into peugeots over here looked at my car for me and he said he put on a spare air flow meter he had and that fixed the problem.

 

im not entirely convinced it would have fixed the problem, so i havnt taken the car for a drive yet.

 

 

can anyone tell me if this would likely fix it or not?

 

just to quickly recap my problem was lots of stuttering/stalling a few times then died and wouldnt start.

about 30 minutes later started ok but i only had it going for a few minutes before i turned if off and parked it.

when it was stuttering it was like i had turned off the car but after a second or two the power would come back then stutter along again.

the rev counter went all over the place when it was stuttering along, some people on here said it would most likely be the coil/ignition amp/loose wires etc

 

if you guys think that the airflow meter could have been it then i think ill take it on a drive in the weekend, but stick close to home so if it does die i dont have far to walk haha

[Guest CB-Dave]

mine was that the plug to the ignition amp had melted - I've posted about it before on here, what was happening was every so often the car would cut the spark out totally (rev counter dropped off to 0) and then pick it back up again - one of the wires in the plug was grounding out which was cutting the spark. Replaced that section of loom (from the ign amp to the 3 pin dizzy plug and a few positives/negatives from the main engine loom - dead easy to do, it's all self contained, think it's three wires that need to be soldered together) and all was fine