Problem With Rear Beam Refurb

[Guest davidt83]

Hi guys..

 

Ive just started a rear beam refurb on the 205. Ive been following Wurzel's Rear Beam Refurbishment Guide in the article section but ive got a bit stuck at the beginning...maybe im being special.

 

Im in the process of removing the cross member flange and all teh bolts have come undone fairly easy..with no problems there. The main problem lies when trying to remove the bolt at the underside of the flange, as the bolt cannot be removed fully. When removing, it fouls on the trailing arm...

 

Any ideas as to how this bolt can be removed? Ive attached a pic (if it works) of what im trying to explain.

 

 

All help would be appreciated,

 

Thanks

 

Dave

Edited May 30, 2006 by davidt83

[M@tt 77]

ooh your going to get bum raped for the big pics

 

any way the solution to your problem is to remove the torsion bar attached to that trailing arm (using the instructions in the guide) this will then allow the torsion bar to swing down out of the way and for you to remove the offending bolt. Also make sure when you refit it you put the bolt in the other way around.

 

HTH

 

Matt

[Pug_101 0]

I had the same problem, Just left it until I got the trailing arms off.

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

Can't see the pic but I think I know which bit you mean.

On mine the side that was OK the bolt cleared the traiing arm,

The other side I had to get somone to leaver the trailing arm out of the way.

Or you could just remove the trailing arms off first.

[Guest davidt83]

Thanks for the advice guys. In the end i had a mate lever the trailing arm out of the way a few mm to remove the bolt.

 

Next problem tho! ...removing the torsion bars from the trailing arms.

 

Ive read the guide, but it did not make complete sense as to which way to hammer the bars out. Bear in mind quality of pic..which way should they be removed?

 

 

Thanks

[jonnie205 1]

They will go out either way but be carefull as the trailing arm do sitort if hit hard meaning you can get offset washer back in. Best to use blocks of wood to soften the blows or use a press if you have to take bars out. You dont have to take bars out though if you want the same rideheight as you had before. One usualy comes out of the arm with ease while the other is always seized, think its drivers side thats seizes

[pug_ham 242 3 Cars]

If you have the beam in pieces already it doesn't matter which way you knock the torsion bars out of the radius arms but its easier to knock them from the stud end imo.

 

I usually put an M8 bolt flush into the end of the bar where the stud is usually fitted & rest the radius arm end against a brick & knock it through, obviously with the offset washer & torx bolt removed.

 

Graham.

[Guest davidt83]

Ok...trailing arms removed and now the next problem..new trailing arm shafts.

 

Im going to replace the shafts as they are not in the best condition, and id rather spend the extra money now than have the beam need rebuilding again in a few months.

 

What other parts do i need if im replacing the trailing arm shafts? I cant find a decent exploded pic anywhere to decide what other parts (seals etc) i might need. Ive tried searching and cam across more than enough topics, but none specific enough. I have a list of part numbers but no idea which parts relate. Any ideas?

 

Part numbers here: http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...rm%20shaft&st=0

 

thanks.

[Wurzel 16]

5176 17 Trailing arm shaft

5174 03 Crossmember seal (anti roll bar lever)

5132 49 External bearing

5131 45 Internal bearing

5154 08 Suspension arm seal

5154 09 Cup

5154 10 External seal (suspension arm seal hold

 

The list above is probably the minimum you'll need to replace. If you intend to do a full refurb, and for a few exra quid, then use the whole list of parts that you found earlier.

 

Search for the online parts discs, the pictures I used at the intro to the rebuild guide will be on there along with the part numbers. I am in the process of re-writing the guide with more piccies, part numbers, and solutions to problems. It's not going to be released for a little while yet, but it's a work in progress.

 

[Guest davidt83]

Ok..next problem in the refurb...removing trailing arm shafts.

 

I have taken the arm to a engineering compnay to have both shafts removed, and they could not get them out, even with a 10tonne press.

 

When i got back i realised that the shaft ahs a shoulder that sits against the inside of the trailing arm. Therefore when the arm is placed in a press and pressure applied to remove the shaft...this shoulder is going to stop the shaft from moving, as it is in contact with the base plate of the press.

 

Am i doing something completey wrong here or am i just being stupid?

 

Pic to follow if this makes no sense

 

Cheers

[Guest davidt83]

ok,heres a pic to make my explanation easier.

 

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h60/hot_...63/205shaft.jpg

 

the shaft is pressed out in the direction of the blue arrow...right?

 

In order to do this, the under side of the trailing arm must be supported. But, when doing this, the shiny silver shoulder is being held and as a result the shaft cannot be pressed out.

 

This is assuming i am doing everything right??

[max0 5]

Hi Fella, there is a metal ring on the shaft which you have refered to above as "shiny silver shoulder"

 

You are correct that the shaft is pushed out in the direction of the blue arrow.

 

Ive taken some pictures of a old shaft etc to try and help. Just lookin for my phone cable.....

[Wurzel 16]

That shiny silver shoulder will not prevent the shaft from being pressed out. It's puny and not attached to the shaft other than a small interference fit.

 

Even if the underside of the press is against this silver 'cup' Part No.5154 09, it will just stay there and the shaft pass through it on it's way out.

 

I suggest that the guys try pressing the shaft out in the direction shown with the blue arrow. With considerable pressure on it, get them to strike the trailing arm at a point where it is gripping the shaft, with a hammer. This distorts the housing sufficiently to release it's grip on the shaft. It may take a couple of stikes and almost all of the pressure available from the press before it will shift.

[max0 5]

Shaft on its own

 

If i remember correctly there was a rubber type seal which you can pike out with a screw driver. Ive just pushed that in to show you, but your shaft should come almost flush.

 

 

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h36/andr.../Photo-0284.jpg

 

http://s60.photobucket.com/albums/h36/andr.../Photo-0283.jpg

 

 

when i got mine done i watched two members of staff wrestling with the press trying to get it to work then there was a loud bang and the shaft was in.

 

 

Hope these help

[Guest davidt83]

thanks very much...that helps loads. I understand it now. I was struggling with exploded part views but could seem to see where this cup came into it.

 

Tommorow will tell how easy the cups will come out!

 

thanks guys

[Guest davidt83]

Ok..the never ending saga in the rear beam refurb continues.

 

All bits are out now and cleaned...with exception to the suspension crossmember.

 

One side appears to be ok, with the seal and outer bearing removed. The other side however...has a very badly worn seal and non existant bearing. Also, the trailing arm shaft appears to have worn badly at the inside of the crossmember.

 

Sorry about quality..but shows the damage.

 

 

So, having looked at the parts manual, the peugeot code appears to be 5148 48, but where can i source a crossmember from.

 

Ill check my local scrappy that specialises in peugeots but if no success, what shops sell these? Ive searched autofive and pugspares and cannot find them listed.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated,

 

Thanks

[jonnie205 1]

just get one from the scrappy mate, they cost about £300 new

[max0 5]

I had to get a new one from the scrap yard as had the same problem Can you post up some more pics, the seal and bearing can be replaced, but if its worn the tube you will need to find another.

 

I got one from a standand 205 (non gti) and we fitted my GTI torsion and anti roll bar.

 

Id keep your old shafts that you got pushed out to help push the new bearings in.

 

If your intresed here are a few pics of my beam etc http://s60.photobucket.com/albums/h36/andrewhey/205/

[Guest davidt83]

ok...no luck finding a reasonable condition cross tube! Ive been to numerous breakers and stripped 5 rear beams now, to find none worth using, from both gti and standard.

 

Anyone know of anywhere that is likely to have any in useable condition? Im running short of ideas and a new one is looming...

 

If it is the case, wheres the cheapest to get a new one?

 

Thanks

[max0 5]

ok...no luck finding a reasonable condition cross tube! Ive been to numerous breakers and stripped 5 rear beams now, to find none worth using, from both gti and standard.

 

Anyone know of anywhere that is likely to have any in useable condition? Im running short of ideas and a new one is looming...

 

If it is the case, wheres the cheapest to get a new one?

 

Thanks

 

have a look on ebay for people breaking 205s or if you want to upgrade a 309 in your area? Could stick a post up in the wanted forum n see if someone has one?

[Guest davidt83]

ok, so its all coming together now.

 

Just one last thing. I went to the place i ordered my bits from today for the beam and they guy told me that he needed 2 peugeot part numbers for the trailing arms as supposedly they are different??

 

surely this is not right. Not only do both shafts look exactly the same, but the bearings both sides are the same and the lever which goes into the outside end of the shaft along with the bush are the same.

 

So question is...are the shafts subtley different and if so, what are the seperate part numbers?

 

Thanks

[Wurzel 16]

The shafts that press into the trailing arm are indeed the same part. The Anti Roll Bar Levers though are different numbers as one has a larger splined socket than the other