Rose Jointed Adjustable Drop Links!

[bren_1.3 1]

clicky here i say!!?

 

made these today. rose joints will be on a threaded tube to adjust length of the drop links.

 

theyll attach to the anti-roll car via a C bracket and than a bolt through the bracket holding the rose joint in place.

 

the drawing should be on the photo bucket shots.

[Jonmurgie 2]

Seems to need a password to view the pics...

 

Nice work, but why would you want adjustable drop links?

[jonD6B 0]

Nice work, but why would you want adjustable drop links?

 

 

Seconded.

[base-1 17]

So you can adjust the anti roll bar of course!

 

 

 

 

I'll get my coat

 

 

 

 

 

 

However it does mean you can remove/adjust the preload on the anti-roll bar, which will affect suspension settings and corner weights

[Jonmurgie 2]

But only really really marginally... I just don't see it's worth it that's all

[bren_1.3 1]

dammit! um anyone know how to show the images then?

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i182/bre...ms/DSC00318.jpg

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i182/bre...ms/DSC00319.jpg

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i182/bre...ms/DSC00320.jpg

 

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i182/bre...iams/joints.jpg

 

b*lls! way to big. can the mods help please i dont know how to make them smaller!

 

Hilgie: edit due to pic size

Edited April 28, 2006 by Hilgie

[Kev-G 1]

Your not a welder are you....

 

Jon, You asked why this was done and then you are in the position to comment on whether it is worthwhile or not....

 

A friend of mine has worked for various suspension companies (Intrax/Spax/Whiteline) as well as advising Touring Car and Rally Teams - This was something he recommended to me in the past....

[Craigb 2]

Adjsuting the arm length of the antiroll bar , will mean variable effect of the bars , but what you have drawn is only adjusting the drop link length , unless i am mistaken. this will have minimal effect .

 

Now if you have a clamping arrangement that allows you to move the effective lenght of the ARB then there will be a usable adjustment ( softer bar for low grip conditions i.e raining )

[Jonmurgie 2]

Jon, You asked why this was done and then you are in the position to comment on whether it is worthwhile or not....

Well I was interested to see what HE thought about it... I, naturally, do know about it so

 

As Craig has just said the droplink length does pretty much f*** all... it's the position of the mounting on the ARB that makes a difference, an adjustable ARB usuallt has 3 different mounting positions for where the droplinks attaches and this in effect stiffens or loosens the ARB... the drop link lenght is irelevant, and I know this as we've just shortened the drop links on my wifes MR2 Turbo due to AST's being fitted and it's hasn't changed the effect of the ARB one bit

[Butler 0]

Surely this would change the tension of the ARB, so would have some effect. I don't know. It's gotta be worth a try.

 

For example if you had a fat ARB for dry track use. If it rained you could slacken if the drop link length so the ARB would only have an effect it higher levels of body roll.

 

[tom_m 0]

Surely this would change the tension of the ARB, so would have some effect. I don't know. It's gotta be worth a try.

 

For example if you had a fat ARB for dry track use. If it rained you could slacken if the drop link length so the ARB would only have an effect it higher levels of body roll.

 

 

no, by adjusting the length of the drop link all you are doing is changing the angle the arb sits at. as jon says adjustable arbs have different locations for the joint between the arb and the drop link. this is where the leverage on the arb comes in.

[Ahl 4]

Rose jointed links would be cool though - mine always wear out.

[bren_1.3 1]

Your not a welder are you....

that was my first attempt really, the second nut i welded was quite neat, and they should hold up, after all theres not a whole lot of force going through the bolt.

 

i did think it would be quite cool to use rose joints for the drop links. making them adjustable in length was an expansion on the idea really.

 

no, by adjusting the length of the drop link all you are doing is changing the angle the arb sits at. as jon says adjustable arbs have different locations for the joint between the arb and the drop link. this is where the leverage on the arb comes in.

 

so all you would have to do is drill a few evenly spaced holes along the length of the arb arm where it meets the drop link? am i right?

[Wurzel 16]

Yep

[bren_1.3 1]

Yep

 

that simple ey?!!! sounds like a plan!

[Henry Yorke 269 3 Cars]

Would drilling the ARB change the torsion within the ARB itself? I think the principle is thicker bars twist less and therefore give less roll. The Eibach front and rear ARB's on my Alfa 155 totally transformed its handling

[bren_1.3 1]

i wasnt aware anti roll bars twist? i assumed they were more in line with the the function of a strut brace?

 

i think there is scope for adjustment on the drilled gti anti roll bar. maybe not enough as say a full change to a thicker bar but still enough for it to be worthwhile.

[Wurzel 16]

The front arb does twist in a sense. Drilling the holes may weaken the bar a bit as I'm pretty sure it's flatened slightly where the original hole is to give enough 'land' around the thread and bolt head.

 

Depending on the angle and length that your drop links extend to will determine how much less leverage you can get on the existing bar. Not too sure if a couple of inches will have much of an overall effect really?

[bren_1.3 1]

The front anti roll bar............the most effective way that I know of for an adjustable front roll bar is.......to mount one straight through the front chassis legs.

 

On some of the factory rally cars.....there was a hole drilled in the chassis leg, then a tube fitted and welded in place. The correctly sized bar was fitted through the tubes with poly bushes holding it in place.

The bar is machined with arms brought forward from the roll bar.....and then rose jointed drop links fitted to the lower wishbones. The lever arms....have different mounting holes to adjust the lever length......and this enables the different rates of the front roll bar.

 

taken from the pinned topic by adi on the first page. how is this any different to what i propose to do with the roll bar on the gti???

[Kev-G 1]

taken from the pinned topic by adi on the first page. how is this any different to what i propose to do with the roll bar on the gti???

This refers to adjusting the length of the anti-rollbar to change the stiffness - What you are doing will change the pre-load on the anti-roll bar.

[bren_1.3 1]

What you are doing will change the pre-load on the anti-roll bar.

 

are there any benefits in adjustng pre-load on the anti roll bar? and what are the effects of adjusting pre-load?

[Wurzel 16]

This refers to adjusting the length of the anti-rollbar to change the stiffness - What you are doing will change the pre-load on the anti-roll bar.

 

Maybe I'm not quite getting what you mean by Pre-Load but I didn't think there was any load on the front arb unless one leg was compressed more than the other.

 

By drilling holes in the bar, the only achievement will be to make the bar leverage effectively shorter and therefore softer.

 

If you could make the drop links extend far enough (and still remain at a functionable angle), then I guess a 309 front arb could be used as it starts off thicker and stiffer. By drilling holes further in from the original drilled hole, the bar would effectively softer and closer towards the standard 205 arb.

 

It depends on if you want to go softer or harder than the original 205.

[base-1 17]

But only really really marginally... I just don't see it's worth it that's all

Every few % helps though! I was doing exactly this on a BMW Historic car last week, only adjustable thing on the bloody car The way it was front and rear bars were both preloaded a bit, removing the preload also shifted the corner weights in the direction needed, only about 10kg front and 8 rear but still...

[Wurzel 16]

Ahh, got the preload bit now (make the link bars longer than each other ).

[Kev-G 1]

If you could make the drop links extend far enough (and still remain at a functionable angle), then I guess a 309 front arb could be used as it starts off thicker and stiffer. By drilling holes further in from the original drilled hole, the bar would effectively softer and closer towards the standard 205 arb.

 

If you were to move the outer mounts in the way then the ARB will become stiffer for the same thickness....