Few Final Mi16 Questions

[Veero 1]

Im sorry about all the questions. I have searched for most of this but theres so much Im not 100%.

 

Mi is going in my 205 next week.

 

Reassembling the bottom end tonight and was wondering about the end main bearing cap seal installation. Is there a secret to it? Speaking to Anthony on MSN and he linked me his photobucket with 2 strips of coke can slipped in to aid fitting, how exactly is this done?

 

Does anyone know a good person/place in Southampton that can re-angle downpipes?

 

I have had some info about the loom but does anyone have a definitive wiring diagram for splicing BX loom into the 205 GTi loom since I want to run the Motronic 3.1 setup I have?

 

What parts of the rad fan cowling do I have to butcher to run standard inlet, or is it obvious once I try and fit it?

 

I have a remote oil cooler rad but no connectors or piping, is one absolutely essential or can it wait a while?

 

What is the most suitable radiator, 405/205/BX and what spec (e.g. a 205 diesel)?

Are the coolant systems appreciably different between BX/405 and 205?

 

This is going to be one busy ass week. Cant wait.

 

Thanks guys

 

Veero

[Jonmurgie 2]

Does anyone know a good person/place in Southampton that can re-angle downpipes?

Do you mean downpipe or manifold? If manifold don't re-angle it, get an angles plate from QEP as it means it will all fit proplery (no warping) and hopefully no cracks (worth looking over your manifold before fitting).

 

What parts of the rad fan cowling do I have to butcher to run standard inlet, or is it obvious once I try and fit it?

It's pretty obvious once the engine is in... it's a case of cut a bit off, offer it up, cut more off etc. Takes a while but better to keep re-checking, you do have to remove a fair bit though

 

I have a remote oil cooler rad but no connectors or piping, is one absolutely essential or can it wait a while?

Not essential, I don't run an oil cooler in my track Mi

 

What is the most suitable radiator, 405/205/BX and what spec (e.g. a 205 diesel)?

Your standard 205 rad is fine...

 

Are the coolant systems appreciably different between BX/405 and 205?

There are a few differences but you will/should have enough pipework from the 8v setup to get things connected up properly, again this is just a case of once the engine is in you just connect it up how you can.

 

Good luck!!

[Dream Weaver 2]

I also dont run an oil cooler.

[petert 554]

I use thin hard plastic for the rear cap, like you'd get with a new formal shirt, or name badges. Lube it all up well, then slide the assembly in at 45 deg., remove the plastic when it's in position. You don't need any sealant if done correctly. The two rubbers should protrude a 1mm above the cap. Don't cut them off flush.

[smckeown 1]

no oil cooler needed if you have an ali finned sump cover

[petert 554]

no oil cooler needed if you have an ali finned sump cover

 

You guys must drive like girls! (or it's very cold over there). I'd hit 150 deg. in 3 laps, no problems at all without a cooler. With an air to air cooler it sits on 100 deg. all day.

[smckeown 1]

it is strange how we can do without oil coolers

[Jonmurgie 2]

You guys must drive like girls! (or it's very cold over there). I'd hit 150 deg. in 3 laps, no problems at all without a cooler. With an air to air cooler it sits on 100 deg. all day.

Yeah, I must drive like a girl... AND I don't have a finned sump!

[petert 554]

My Mi16x4 is sitting on 130 deg. after 3 laps, crying for mercy. Four laps would kill it.

[Veero 1]

Wow lightning quick responses, thanks

 

Ok Ill pass on the cooler since yes it's an aly finned sump.

 

Coolant system I have a couple of diagrams (MS Paint is legendary) and am sure I can figure it out/cobble something together.

 

Exhaust manifold, sorry should have said, the QEP plate arrived last night presumably the exhaust manifold gasket goes between plate/manifold? Or do I need another gasket for between plate and block? I've examined my manifold and as far as I can tell it's fine.

 

I think my rad could do with replacing, so ill just hunt another, should make life easier.

 

As to the cap installation Ill have a check when I get home and all will probably become clear but Im not quite sure how you mean install it at 45 degrees.

 

Anyway thanks again for such fast replies, i will probably add a few more questions throughout the day as I remember other things

 

CHeers

Veero

[petert 554]

Exhaust manifold, sorry should have said, the QEP plate arrived last night presumably the exhaust manifold gasket goes between plate/manifold? Or do I need another gasket for between plate and block? I've examined my manifold and as far as I can tell it's fine.

 

I don't use any, and save 5-6mm. I use Loctite Copper Maxx. It's cat. and lamda sensor safe, designed for the job.

[Veero 1]

Ok cool, Ill have a look for that.

 

I have used brand new piston rings, big end and main shells, new plugs, leads, dizzy, water pump, belt and tensioners and all seals. What is the best procedure for running in? Not rev above 3k for 300 miles or so and oil change at 1000 miles or sooner? Last thing I wanna do is knacker something.

 

Cheers

Veero

[Jonmurgie 2]

ooh, there's a couple of camps on the 'how to run in an engine'... do a search as it's been discussed before including links to other sites with their opinions etc.

 

For me though, I'm in the 'run it in hard' camp

[Dream Weaver 2]

I'm currently running mine in, done about 20 miles so far til the fuel pipe came off the filter and sprayed fuel everywhere

 

New banjo and hose from Miles downstairs, then its time to start again. I'm going for the run it hard method, already ragged it a few times to the redline, 6983rpm according to the tacho telltale .

[Emmy Seize 8]

You guys must drive like girls! (or it's very cold over there). I'd hit 150 deg. in 3 laps, no problems at all without a cooler. With an air to air cooler it sits on 100 deg. all day.

 

Air to air cooler ? What is it and what is it good for ? Sorry, I had to pick this up

 

I use one of my cars as a daily driver, mostly on german autobahns to get to the office.

 

Without an oil cooler (or just the oil to water thing) , the temp hits 130 easily and only comes down if I slow

 

down to around 140 Km/h (which is not the sort of speed I bought the GTI for.....).

 

Would an extra oil cooler enable me to go flat out for an hour ?

 

As for the running in, at Uni they told us that once operating temperature is reached, a new

 

engine should stand everything up to the given rev-limit. If not, the built quality was to be questioned....

 

Nice in theory, but a totally different thing, once your own motor (and funds) are concerned.

 

I would treat it gently for at least 1500 kms.

Edited April 7, 2006 by Emmy Seize

[Veero 1]

Hehe ok Ill have a ganders for the running in methods.

 

Obviously I wanna see what this badboy can do so the "run it hard and fast" sounds good to me

 

I already have a brand new fuel banjo from Miles to fit so hopefully that wont happen

 

Veero

[Dream Weaver 2]

Should be good, make sure your fuel hose is on really tight.

 

I thought mine was, and when we hit a big bump near my house the engine movement (even on GrpN mounts) ripped the line from the filter - it could've been curtains for the car, or us, there was fuel everywhere

[d-9 0]

I thought mine was, and when we hit a big bump near my house the engine movement (even on GrpN mounts) ripped the line from the filter - it could've been curtains for the car, or us, there was fuel everywhere

 

Christ thats very worrying. Fuel lines are something im getting increasingly paranoid about, especially since monkeys fire last year

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

I think most things have been covered, If you need the Downpipe doing let us know what and we'll sort it, Oil coolers or heat exchanger's are not needed for road use, But 15 mins of track driving and you or I deffo needed one.

[petert 554]

By air cooler cooler, I meant a 13 or 25 row type that sits in front of the radiator. I'm not sure about a 13 row, they're OK for sprints, but a 25 row is what I've used in the past. You could certainly run for an hour with that.

 

Running In:

the aim is to push the rings out against the cylinder walls. So higher gears, forcing the engine under load more often. Find some hills. The worse thing you can do is drive down the motorway at 90km/h for two hours. Puma covered this very well recently. You don't have 1000km to run a race engine in!

[Veero 1]

Arrrgh!!

 

Literarally going to be finished tomorrow after 4 days of work in the garage.

 

2 points though.

 

Miles --> Can you sort out the downpipe tomorrow??

 

And Id prefer to run the washer bottle where it currently is, unfortunately I have the BX air pipe between TB and AFM which is a country mile too long. Anyone in Southampton got a 405 air pipe which I can buy tomorrow??

 

Thanks

Veero

Edited April 14, 2006 by Veero