Raising Rear Beam

[SPGTi 2]

I have searched, read the 2 guides on the main site and think I am nearly ready to attempt raising the rear ride height by about 10-15mm.

I have a re-furbed rear beam on at the moment which is about 18 months old and done about 2000miles so don't expect anything to be seized.

I will make up some dummy shocks about 3-4mm longer than the existing bolt to bolt measurement.

Do I need to remove the end plates to remove the torsion bars ?

What else do I need to be aware of ?

 

I am after as much info as possible as I will only have about 3 hours to do the job

 

cheers

 

steve

[pug_ham 242 3 Cars]

Steve, You don't need to remove the ARB end plates to do this but both ends need to be disconnected from the trailing arm & it turned out of the way so the offset washer & torx bolt for the passenger side can be accessed.

 

When I rebuilt my beam, I adjusted the ride height three times until I was happy with it, last time it took me an hour start to finish.

 

To lift the ride height by 10-15mm you'll need more than a 3-4mm difference between shocker mounting imo but its basically a trial & error job.

 

Graham.

[SPGTi 2]

Thanks for the reply. If I can do the job in an hour I will be chuffed. Looking again I see I will need to make a dummy shock 8-10mm longer than the distance I have now.

So once I have loosen the bars (recessed washer etc) the bar should slide out ? Which side ?

 

Sorry for the questions but there doesn't seem to be a guide / many ref to altering the ride height of a "beam" only ref to a potentially seized beam or using the spline method.

 

Steve

[pug_ham 242 3 Cars]

Once you've loosened the bolt, offset washer & 13mm nut on the stud from the oppostie end of the torsion bar & supported the weight of the radius arm in a neutral position (shock disconnected) the bars should slide out fairly easily but an M8 bolt threaded in with a nut & washer against the radius arm can help get it moving. The bar slides towards you depending on what side of the car you are working on.

 

I take it you are completely removing the torsion bar from the radius arm to do this & not by the spline method?

 

You don't need a dummy shock if you are good with a tape measure but its a far more accurate way to make something. I've used a piece of wood with holes drilled at the distance apart I want but I'm currently looking at making a proper dummy shock with 0.5mm increments.

 

When you refit it all, I fit the offset washer & torx bolt first & then reset the end stop for the 13mm nut by screwing the stud fully into the bar while its apart & then unscrewing it until it hits the end plate firmly & holding it while tightening the 13mm nut.

 

Its not a hard job just as long as it all comes apart nicely.

 

Graham.