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sherly

Mi16 With Broken Cambelt........

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sherly

I've found a BX 16v in a scrapyard with a broken cambelt. The owner has said that I can have the engine/box and possibly loom/ecu for £50 (basically before he scraps the shell).

 

I've also got no way of checking previous mileage - the clocks are missing from the car.

 

It's always going to be an open ended question but what sort of damage could've been done?

 

I'm assuming it'll definately be valves/piston damage but is there any possibility of damage to head/block - or anything that renders the whole lot scrap?

 

Opinions please - worth getting hold of?

 

Mart <_<

 

p.s. as most of the car is still intact what else will I need to save for the 205 Mi16 conversion?

Edited by sherly

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Jonmurgie

Well the loom and ECU will be worth more than £50 so in that respect yeah it's worth the risk then you can asses the damage the cambelt has done...

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DrSeuss

buy it and the loom and ecu. The ecu sits under the passenger seat so there's a fair old length to strip. The head will have plenty of knackered valves. So budget on a new one and a complete rebuild really.

 

But 50 quid is spare change and the loom/ecu alone is worth that.

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DaveW

yeah buy it for the money you wont lose anything on it <_<

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Alastairh

Get it,

 

If you don't drop us a pm, and i may get it.

 

Alastair

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sherly

Good stuff - just the replies I was hoping for. :)

 

Presuambly Mi16 heads are fairly readily available 2nd hand if this one is badly damaged (if it's even possible that it'll be that bad)?

 

Is there anything else I need to nick, or is worth nicking off the car other than engine/box, loom/ecu?

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maxi

Where abouts is the scrap yard??

 

Maxi

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KRISKARRERA

Definately get it. These engines should be regarded as gold.

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Veero

Yeah take it! No brainer really!

 

Oh and isn't the ECU under the driver's seat?

 

Veero

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DaveW

id take the dials too...

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sherly
id take the dials too...

 

I'm pretty sure the dials were missing as I remember there was no way of checking the mileage of the car.

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sherly

I've just arranged to pick up the engine and box in a week or so's time. Scrapyard bloke is even removing the engine for me too which saves a bit of hassle!

 

Only thing is I've got to strip the loom/ecu out myself. Is it going to be obvious how much of the loom I need - I assume it's only the engine loom that I require?

 

Has anyone else stripped a bx for its loom that can offer some tips?

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pacey205

I stripped the loom out of mine, relatively easy.

 

ECU is under the drivers seats and runs along the floor and up through the bulkhead trough the drivers side wing and the runs in behind the front bumper right across to the passenger side of the car for the AFM etc. There is a split on the drivers sied wing where the wiring for the relasy injectiosn etc goes.

 

Best way is to take off the ront bumper (coupl of bolts/screws, really easy to remove) and undo teh bolts on top of the wing which allows it to hinge out from the bottom so you can get at the loom. Then its just a case of removing the loom itself.

 

Ill see if i can find a couple of photos to illustrate what I mean.

 

Edit

 

Wiring comes for injectors from behind green sphere behind drivers headlight, rest comes from down by the AFM

enginebaystart1xl.jpg

 

Loom running out of wing behind the bumper

wiringloombumper19gl.jpg

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/2668/wi...mbumper26tr.jpg

 

Loom running through wing

wiringloomwing6bf.jpg

 

Loom running along drivers floor

wiringloomdriversfloor8ih.jpg

 

Bung in wing

wiringrubberbung4le.jpg

 

Hope that helps

 

Michael

Edited by pacey205

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pug_ham
I've also got no way of checking previous mileage - the clocks are missing from the car.
id take the dials too...
:wacko::rolleyes:

 

Glad you've decided to take it, I got an engine & box for the same price last year with 86k showing on the clocks but no loom.

 

When he told me how much he wanted for the engine I had to restrain myself from snapping his arm off at the price. I wondered off & tried turning the engine with a spanner on teh crank pulley, wasting 10 minutes before i went back & paid a deposit.

 

Make sure he keeps the upper engine mount, mine didn't even though I asked them to. :(

 

Graham.

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sherly

Great pics Michael - exactly what I needed to see - what a bizarre wiring route though!

 

When he told me how much he wanted for the engine I had to restrain myself from snapping his arm off at the price.

 

I had the same reaction - trying desperately not to look too keen - maybe I should've haggled :rolleyes:

 

I get the impression he assumes that the whole car is worthless because it's been in his yard for so long with no interest from anyone.

 

Make sure he keeps the upper engine mount, mine didn't even though I asked them to.

 

Now that I've got to strip the wiring loom myself I can check that I've got all the parts that I need.

 

Are there any other bits that I might need that would be easy to forget and leave on the car?

Edited by sherly

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sherly

Engine is finally sat in my workshop. :)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/sherly205/beltsnap.jpg

 

I've removed the head to see what damage has been caused and have discovered 4 bent exhaust valves and 2 bent inlet valves so not too bad........

 

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/sher.../bentvalves.jpg

 

........but I now have a busted headbolt to deal with. 2nd from last when undoing and it sheared off in the block. ;)

 

I've gained some ideas from searching on the forum and it seems that the majority of busted headbolts come out or can be repaired successfully, which has made me feel slightly better about the situation.

 

I plan to machine up a drilling bush to sit in the bolt hole to ensure the drilling is centralised and carefully drill out to the minor diameter of the thread and hopefully with some heat and persuasion the remains should come out (or retap) or helicoil if this fails.

 

or if anyones got any better ideas........... ;)

 

Mart :)

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Higgy

The Mi16x4 I bought had 2 exhaust valves that 'kissed'.

 

To remove a broken head bolt, you should be able to get some long nose pliers on the thread as it sticks out in recess in the block on all but one of the head bolts (I think) and screw it out.

 

Hopefully as the bolt sheared it left a lip. Use the plilers again to 'grab' onto the lip and carry on unscrewing it from the head side.

 

The 'force' is between the head and the block. Now the bolt is snapped the force is gone, so in theory (and in my case) the bolt was 'loose' within the block. Just was a bit fiddly undoing it.

 

Could save you needing to drill and potentially damage the threads in the block.

 

Higgy.

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