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IOWGENTRY

Rear Lowering Problem? Help!

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IOWGENTRY

Hi,

 

Recentlly I purchased a 205 Gentry. I have just had a new custom exhaust fitted with a cat bypass. When it came out of the garage (Carnoisseur) they said to me that the bottom engine mount was on its last legs, Took that in mind and thought I would replace it with a Baker uprated one, before I could get it done the old one gave way therefore snapping my exhaust on the join of the front box due to movement of the engine. Its being done at the garage now. Anyway to the point......... It origanally went in for the torsion bar to be lowered to match the front hight.

 

They told me that in order to lower the rear I would first need new brake lines and possibly a new rear crossmember, and to be safe two new rear wheel bearings. They said all this would take 12 hours at 35 quid plus VAT, plus parts.

 

Do I get a second opinion? I cant afford that kind of labour!!!!

 

Im all new to Pugs so any help appreciated!!!!!

 

 

Thanks

 

Phill

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Anthony

Well, he's sort of right.

 

Most 205 rear beams are now at an age where the bearings and seals on them are getting well past their best. Lowering a car with dying bearings/seals will usually be the death of it in a short time afterwards, as everything gets disturbed when it's taken apart.

 

Lowering the beam doesn't take very long if you're just lowering it one spline (about 35mm), but if the beam turns out to be in poor state, then the required rebuild does take several hours, and at garage rates it quickly gets very expensive.

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credowan

Hi, bit of bad luck about the mount mate,

 

Not sure if they ment the beam bearings but not sure why they`ed do the wheel bearings unless they were knackered best to do the beam bearing or at least check them and the shats when lowering

 

I know some people do wrk for people on here, they might be willing to do the above for some cash/beer tokens but not sure.

 

If you want you could follow the lowering and beam rebuild guide on the drivers main forum and give it a go yourself any problems sure you`ed find the info needed to complete it on here

 

 

http://www.205gtidrivers.com/

 

 

Good luck mate, keep us posted on how you get on

 

 

Gary

Edited by credowan

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Miles

Not sure about the brake lines unless they are coddoded to excess,

Bar that it is really a lucky dip if the beams OK or not as it's impossible to tell unless you have camber on the rear wheels or signs of rubing on the inner arch, So there are covering themselves and that's not a bad rate for a Garage

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vikgti

Bad luck on you bottom mount.

 

As for your rear beam there are lots of people on this site that have lowered rear beams and i was you i would have a go yourself as it's really not that bad. I did mine with in a hour.

 

It sound like the garage you are taking it to have quoted you for the worst case and i bet half the bits wouldn't be used, i don't think half the garages on the iow have the tooling to change the inner bearing, think i would shop about and get some more quotes from other garages before committing to this garage!

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taylorspug

As said they are just quoting for a worst case scenario, although it may be a good idea to check with them what actually needs doing if/when they take the beam apart, you dont want to be shafted for unecessary work!

 

The labour rate they are charging is bloody cheap, as a comparison i took the Alfa into Monza Sport the other day to get some diagnostic work done- £60 an hour...

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C_W

Theoretically only the torsion bars need to come out to lower it, the trailing arms don't need to come out. Obviously its highly likely that if they did remove the trailing arms it will have wear on it.

 

But the brake lines are a seperate issue and either need replacing or don't.

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Anthony
Theoretically only the torsion bars need to come out to lower it, the trailing arms don't need to come out.

Theoretically, yes, but as you and me both know, if the beam has been on there more than a couple of years then the torsion bar splines will likely be corroded solid and there's no way they're coming out without removing the trailing arm.

 

But the brake lines are a seperate issue and either need replacing or don't.

I'm hazarding a guess the reason they're saying brake lines is because of the tendancy for the unions to sieze and sheer off when you try to undo them, which being a drum-braked beam they'll have to do in order to remove the trailing arm.

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C_W

I think they would have been better saying "we'll rebuild the rear beam for you and lower it atthe same time as its going to be apart anyway!" :)

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Guest Dave_IOW

Hi, please let me know how this goes as i need somewhere down here to get the work doing too. I heard from friend of previous owner, that he tried to lower it and the bearings started goin?

 

I take it this would be the torsion bar bearing, not wheel bearings?

 

What sorta price do u guys think would be in order for Bearings, seals and dropping her down 2 splines?

 

Cheers Dave (Sorry for hi-jack :unsure: )

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veloce200
Hi, please let me know how this goes as i need somewhere down here to get the work doing too. I heard from friend of previous owner, that he tried to lower it and the bearings started goin?

 

I take it this would be the torsion bar bearing, not wheel bearings?

 

What sorta price do u guys think would be in order for Bearings, seals and dropping her down 2 splines?

 

Cheers Dave (Sorry for hi-jack :unsure: )

I was in middle of lowering rear beam for customer when I removed the trailing arm to check the bearings - and there are none!!! Just rust and few odd needle rollers floating around. this car had no -ve camber either and no play so goes to show you never know what you're in for.

 

Bearings should be about £35, not sure on seals but around £10 side maybe. 1 spline will often put it on the bumpstops! I guess labour between £150-250 total?

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Anthony
1 spline will often put it on the bumpstops!

One spline is about 30-35mm lower and is about right for most cars. Should be enough clearance on the bumpstops when running this configuration, and you can always cut the bumpstop down by 10-15mm with no ill effects.

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veloce200
One spline is about 30-35mm lower and is about right for most cars. Should be enough clearance on the bumpstops when running this configuration, and you can always cut the bumpstop down by 10-15mm with no ill effects.

when I measured the shock mounting holes 1 spline moved them 30mm closer and I think the ratio according to Wurzel is 1.5 so 45mm lower. Maybe it varies from car to car?

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Mad Professor

Phill like i said over the Phone & MSN, If you take it in a garage you are going to get ripped off.

 

Goto "Hodge & Childs" and order the following parts.

 

2x 513249

2x 513145

2x 515408

2x 515409

2x 515410

1x VOL304

 

That will come to around £45.00, That includes all the bearings and seals for the rear beam.

It would also be a good idear to order your self a set of 1.9 GoodRich Brake Hoses.

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veloce200

The beam I'm rebuilding at the moment needs new cross tube and trailing arm shafts as both are severely damaged. I think the best option would be to find a garage you can trust who can inspect the shafts - as long as they're not scored then labour wise you shouldn't be looking at much more than 8-10hrs for a rebuild. If the shafts are damaged the new shafts are £60 each+VAT and the cross tube is £260 + VAT.

I'm certainly not ripping him off though - charging him only £20 hr to do the work ! :)

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Anthony
That will come to around £45.00, That includes all the bearings and seals for the rear beam.

It would also be a good idear to order your self a set of 1.9 GoodRich Brake Hoses.

Gentry's use 1.6 GTi brake hoses AFAIK....

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vikgti

I wouldn't buy any bearing for it untill you get it apart and see whats whats with it! As hodge and child won't take bearings back so you will have wasted you money there!

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Guest PUGMIKE

Makes for an interesting read this does! I have a 1.6 gti running 1.9 engine and rear beam. I want to lower the tortion bar 1 spline but im worried that this may lead to more problems? though the beam hasnt been on the car that long i assume? it was inspected and all was fine? What sort of signs am i looking for that there is going to be trouble?

 

Sorry for the hijack

 

Regards!

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