Megasquirt 1 On A N/a Mi16

[Pugnut 9 1 Cars]

We need to clarify the components required for individaul installations, here mine , probably the most common ?

 

using the standard ignition set up , ditching the afm

the way i understand it so far :

 

 

1, the VR pickup and 60-2 toothed ring can be used with the standard hardware (software add on)

 

2, the OE colant temp sensor is ok

 

3, any old inlet temp sensor can be sourced from a breaker

 

4, as above with the Throttle position sensor ( dont some of the VW Throttle bodies have a potentiometer that fits the Mi inlet fannymould ?

 

5, the megasquirt has an inbuilt map sensor, plumbing only required

 

6, On an N/A application a narrowband lambda sensor could be sourced from a breaker including its boss.

 

7, The existing ignition amplifier,coil and distributor cap can be utilised

 

8, the existing injectors are compatable

 

Please lets add/correct this list . Once we are clear on whats required we should hopefully gather more interest in the group buy .

 

cheers Al

[Anthony 1,000]

All fine, but a few points I picked out to comment on...

 

1. Standard 60-2 Motronic crank and sensor is fine on the v3 Megasquirt boards. It won't work on the older v2.2 ones without additional hardware though, but that's not an issue for you.

 

4. Probably best of picking up a generic TPS and making a small adapter plate - certainly most of the ones I've seen at the scrappy won't fit on a 8v or Mi16 manifold as the bolt spacing is wrong.

 

6. You don't really need a lambda sensor unless you're running a CAT. Personally I'd be inclined to say that if you're not going for a wideband sensor+controller (they've come down loads in price recently) then don't bother.

 

7. You could use the standard ignition setup, but why? In my opinion getting rid of that and running a wasted spark setup is one of the most appealing things about aftermarket management (although that's prehaps unsuprising given all the grief I've had with Mi dizzy caps). Megasquirt v3 can drive the coil directly if you choose, so you could do away with the ignition amp if you wanted (although it can use it)

 

8. Standard injectors are fine, and are 214cc high impedance.

[Pugnut 9 1 Cars]

Thanks for the comments Anthony.

 

 

6, The way i see it is that if you dont use a Lambda sensor then it would be a lot harder to get the fuelling bang on ? the MS will use the lambda sensor to correct the fuelling?

 

7, If i was to go down the Wasted spark route what vehicle would make a suitable donor for the parts?

 

 

cheers AL

Edited January 10, 2006 by Pugnut

[DrSeuss 0]

lambda sensors on megasquirt are used to improve cruise economy. Like any other oe management software. Though not necessary, i'd suggest using it to run in closed loop for emissions purposes.

 

Wasted spark coil packs can be sourced from most tu or xu's or plenty of fords etc. The coil is quite generic.

[Anthony 1,000]

6, The way i see it is that if you dont use a Lambda sensor then it would be a lot harder to get the fuelling bang on ? the MS will use the lambda sensor to correct the fuelling?

Problem is that a narrowband Lambda isn't really very good for that purpose. The job of a narrowband lambda is really just to tell the ECU when the gas mixture is at a fairly precise point, around 14.7:1 from memory, which is where a catalytic converter works best. The point at which your engine will run best and be most economical however will likely be very different - maximum power at WOT is usually around 12.5:1, and on part-throttle cruise you might want to lean the mixture back to 15-16:1 for better economy.

 

A wideband lambda sensor will allow you to do this and tell you the mixture across a wide range - something like 9:1 to 22:1 - whereas all a narrowband will tell you is pretty much whether you're richer or leaner than 14.7:1.

 

7, If i was to go down the Wasted spark route what vehicle would make a suitable donor for the parts?

I'm sure they'll be some recommended coilpacks listed on the MS site, but I imagine that you could use the standard Bosch coilpack used on various 1.8 and 2.0 8v Peugeots and Citroens that are common at scrappies.

[Pugnut 9 1 Cars]

ok guys , so you've convinced me to use the wideband lambda sensor, and it makes no sense to retain the current dizzy cap etc . iirc my wifes old 1.0l tu saxo had the required ignition components, the first car you bump into in a scrappy will have the parts!

 

another question:

 

 

9: the ISCV on the motronic system: is it necessary when using the MS ? does the MS-1 support it ?

 

cheers guys , its slowly becoming clear!

[DrSeuss 0]

Idle control is a bit of an odd one. Most aftermarket ecu's don't pay a massive amount of attention to the idle. But with attention to the map you can get a steady idle. Most people with throttle bodies get a steady idle so i see no reason why it won't be acceptably stable.

 

MS-I with some extra hardware supports the standard idle valve. Support is mainly for the initial cold start. Rather then maintaining idle speed during normal operation.

[IvarS 0]

Use the XM 2.0 8V 122bhp throttle housing, it is 22% bigger and comes fitted with a pot-type TPS

 

I run the OEM idle valve with MS, only mod to the board was replacing the transistor to cope with more amps.

 

The settings below is what I've filled in and yes, I have a pretty good idle under the circumstances (1000-1100 rpm).

 

 

 

[Pugnut 9 1 Cars]

Use the XM 2.0 8V 122bhp throttle housing, it is 22% bigger and comes fitted with a pot-type TPS

 

I run the OEM idle valve with MS, only mod to the board was replacing the transistor to cope with more amps.

 

The settings below is what I've filled in and yes, I have a pretty good idle under the circumstances (1000-1100 rpm).

 

 

Great info Ivar thanks , i see from the photo that its the v2.2 main board you have modified , does the same apply for the v3?

 

and you say your idle is good under the circumstances? why do you say this? are you running wild cams or something ?

 

cheers Al

Edited January 10, 2006 by Pugnut

[IvarS 0]

Great info Ivar thanks , i see from the photo that its the v2.2 main board you have modified , does the same apply for the v3?

 

and you say your idle is good under the circumstances? why do you say this? are you running wild cams or something ?

 

cheers Al

 

Yes, it's the 2.2 board and I think the 3.0 comes fitted with the same transistor (2N2222). I'll be changing over to 3.0 in a few months and the guy that I got my present 2.2 from can fit the stronger transistor for me on a new 3.0 board. The holes are annoyingly hard to clear out when replacing stuff so I'd rather have it right from the start.

 

Under the circumstances means regrind cams (264 degree) and the fact I've ripped out all the Bosch original ECU stuff and got it running on an aftermarket ECU. The idle certainly is a lot smoother than it was with the Motronic ECU. Only issue is cold start (below freezing), under those conditions I have to restart the engine 2 or 3 times before it runs. Once it's running, there's no problem though and from what I've read about ECU:s like Emerald, cold start isn't any better. There are a lot of settings to play around with but as long as I don't know what they're for, better just leave it be

[DrSeuss 0]

Don't fancy changing over to version 3 now then ivar? Its good to know the megasquirt is working for you. A success story like yours will take some of the fear out of it for others.

[IvarS 0]

Don't fancy changing over to version 3 now then ivar? Its good to know the megasquirt is working for you. A success story like yours will take some of the fear out of it for others.

 

I will, as soon as funds allow. The country of Sweden is however covered in snow for two more months and the car is in storage right now. A friend of mine helped with the tuning, since he has a LM1 wide-band lambda. I DO NOT recommend tuning with the narrow band, the reading is just all over the place and makes no sense.