No1 bearing cap seals (Hockey sticks) - Fitting advice.

[ALEX 100 1 Cars]

Looks like I failed miserably when fitting these as I have an oil leak. I think the error I made was cutting them flush with the sump mounting face. Haynes says leave 2mm protruding when trimming the excess. (Yeah I read that bit too late!) I'm guessing this is so the seals get squashed tight into the bearing cap grooves when the sump is bolted up.

I have new hockey seals to go on, though my concern now is will I be able to re-fit the No1 bearing cap back on without taking off the gearbox and Flywheel to make sure the crank seal is fitted properly?

 

 

[petert 630]

I can't see how you'd fit the cap without removing gearbox & flywheel, let alone the seal. The cap & hocky sticks need to slide in at 45º, then stand up.

[Leslie green 158]

Just take the engine out again and you need to put a little sealer  each side under the cap bolt holes where it sits down on its base in the block  from what I remember too , forget what I used now though. You need the 2mm excess so it will still be tight after it sinks a big after a few  heat cycles and I oiled the hockey sticks lightly  so they slide in otherwise they may drag and tear.

Edited May 6 by Leslie green

[petert 630]

I smear the head and legs of the seals and block with 1211 so it all slides in nicely, then seals afterwards. The 1211 acts as a lubricant.

[ALEX 100 1 Cars]

I fitted the cap back in last night.  

I tried the feeler gauge method as described in the Haynes first, but they kept slipping out. 

In the end lots of lube and wiggling got the cap back in with about 2mm pocking out on the hockey sticks this time.  

The crank seal looks far enough in from what I could see with my bore scope. 

If it leaks It's a gearbox & Fly off to do it properly. I cant see the need to remove the engine though?! 

I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[Leslie green 158]

I think its probably easier to just take the engine and box out as one rather than try and get the gearbox out itself as its so tight a fit , and yes forget the feeler blades its just too fiddly .

The crank seals you get now are only half the width of the original ones from what I remember so its more difficult to get them square in the bore plus its less clear how far in they should go . Hopefully that you sorted now every day is a skool day