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Chrisstdt

1.6 8v running badly

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Chrisstdt

New to me standard 1.6 

 

Starts great but had an annoying misfire at about 3.5k revs

 

I've changed leads , plugs, coil ,ignition module ,cleaned afm ,checked for air leaks (found a split hose which I replaced but other than visual checks what can you do ?)

 

She's now running worse with annoying power loss at around 2k revs

 

I've got an ECU temp sensor coming and will check the afm with a multimeter 

 

I filled her up with standard E10 petrol ,will they run happy on this or do they need e5 ?

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PhilNW

Check the fuel pressure as well, just had a fuel pump go bad which gave similar symptoms

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Chrisstdt

Best way to do that ?

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Leslie green

They will run on e10 but you are better using 97 octane e5 which is what I always put in now and the haynes does say not to use 95 octane petrol but this might just  be for the 1.9 can't remember . If it was the fuel pump id think it would get worse the higher the revs and beware there are a lot of fuel pumps advertised that don't generate enough pressure for the gti . If you can get an original bosch pump that would be best .

Edited by Leslie green

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Chrisstdt

Thanks up get one ordered 

 

Remember alot being said about the new fuel when it came out but can't see it causing my running problems 

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Leslie green

Phase 1 and 2 use different pumps too and they ard expensive so id get that pressure tester to check if thats the issue.

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Chrisstdt

Looks to have had a new pump but I've ordered the test kit

 

Noticed an unused white wire coming from the coil (is this normal?)

 

And tested afm (jetronic( with multimeter and it's out of spec ,pins 5-7 should be 60 ohms with flap closed but reads 117 and 1 John when open but reads 455

 

Took the lid off the afm and the carbon track looks ok

Edited by Chrisstdt

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Leslie green

The white wire of the coil is normal ,cant remember what it was for but usually not connected to anything .

Edited by Leslie green

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Richie-Van-GTi

White wire is possibly the suppressor, wont affect running, just to kill feedback on the stereo.

Typically a bad or lazy pump will have a complete power loss higher up due to lack of fuel. Sometimes the cause is the rubber boot that connects the pump to the pump housing splitting.

 If its an isolated misfire around a certain RPM ita usually down to the set up, check your vac advance works and hasnt split then go back to basics, set the spark angle at idle with a strobe, make aure your throttle closes correctly and the TPS switches at idle then get a CO meter and adjust the AFM screw to get correct mixture at idle, or use a colourtune then see how it drives.

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Chrisstdt

Thanks I'm fitting new breather / intake hoses this weekend to rule out air leaks and fit a new ECU temp sensor to rule that out and il go from there 

 

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Chrisstdt

How would I check the vacuum advance?

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Tom Fenton

The air flow meter would be my target.

 

To test the vac advance suck on the pipe that goes to it. If you can suck air through with no resistance then the diaphragm inside is split and it’s no good. Very common they don’t last forever, BUT, I don’t think it will cause your misfire either way.

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Chrisstdt

It's on the list too but good ones are hard to come by

 

Are there firms that refurb them ?

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welshpug

yes, https://www.atcdrivetrain.co.uk/

 

they have been the only place I've ever seen in the UK doing them, I think they no longer have stock for exchange but can still test and refurbish your own unit if required.

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Chrisstdt

Thanks il get onto them

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Leslie green

I have heard they only retrack them (airflow meter's) not fit a new carbon track which for the price they are charging is a bit of a disappointment but I suppose they offer a guarantee.

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Chrisstdt

The track looks ok on mine but the readings were out of spec 

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Leslie green

I need to check mine too see how it compares although it runs mostly ok it does tend to shunt at low speed regularly and I've felt brief hesitations at higher rpm (5k) The track may look ok but the readings being out of spec says its not just right .

Edited by Leslie green

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Chrisstdt

Fitted all the breather stuff and ECU temp sensor and it made no difference 

Plumbed pressure gauge between filter and fuel rail and only get around 1.8 bar with engine running and no change when I take vaccum off for

 

My understanding is it should be 2.5 with engine running and jump to 3.0 when removing vacuum from for

 

Going to try testing fpr with a tyre inflator but I suspect the fpr may be at fault 

 

She's had a new fuel pump so previous owner has been chasing this ,I removed the pump and gauze on bottom was clear

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welshpug

is it a pre 1990 car with the black housing or post 1990 with the white housing?

 

the former can leak from the rubber joiner/adapter between the pump and the housing, the latter just had a piece of hose.

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Chrisstdt

1991 car ,pump has a rubber hose ,I could put the old pump back on (it came with the car) to test but I'm off tomorrow so il try and test the fpr as it seems the previous owner tried fixing this problem 

 

Would fuel pressure if under 2.0 bar cause fueling problems ?

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Tom Fenton

As you say it should be 3.0 bar base setting, probably the easiest test is short across the fuel pump relay with a bit of wire so the pump runs constantly, and you should see 3 bar at the rail with the engine stopped, so it removes the vacuum reference from the mix while you test.

Only thing to bear in mind is a damaged injector pissing fuel in constantly could also give you low fuel pressure, it’s not necessarily the pump or regulator.

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Chrisstdt

Thanks il try that

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