205 GTI 1.9 not starting

[David Simson 4]

Hi,

I have a 1.9 205GTI.

There is quite a story here so I'll try and keep it brief:

Back in 2023 I bought the car and used it for 12 months commuting. It was running rich but it started every time. It then went off the road September 2023 until September 2024 being fully restored. Nothing was done during this period to address the running although it did start every time when in the workshop.

It was finally back on the road June 2025 and unsurprisingly has been running much the same as it was in 2023 although it was still starting every time. The richness and poor running was always my next priority.

However, in July it began to make a clicking noise and not starting. This is when the key is fully turned so the starter motor should be turning but nothing. I'd do this a couple of times and then it would start. However, this issue has become increasingly common over the past few weeks so now it clicks 80% of the time and only 20% will turn over and fire the engine. In an attempt to eliminate basic issues I've done the following, and double checked them:

 

• New distributor cap
• New rotor arm
• New ignition coil wire and spark plug leads
• New spark plugs
• New starter motor

 

I've also checked the following:

 

There is small brown multi-connector with 8 pins. One of these is for the starter motor but there are others are for oil pressure sensor, alternator, reversing light....etc. Apparently they can get into a horrible mess but I've checked mine and it's as clean as a whistle.

 

• Checked fuel lines and fuel is coming out.
• Checked to see if I have a spark. Yes, I have.

 

I then began to think about the mixture and watched an excellent (I think) video explaining about the main mixture with the toothed wheel. I have NOT touched this so far.

The same video also explained about the idle mixture screw to the left of the mixture panel. Turning is clockwise makes the idle richer, turning it anti-clockwise allows more air so effectively the idle becomes leaner. This is where the story becomes even more curious:

 

If I turn it anti-clockwise the engine turns over as it should do but doesn't fire - presumably because it's too lean. I do NOT get the click when I do this.

If I turn it clockwise to make the idle richer I get the click but the engine does NOT turn over. 

 

Sorry. I did try to keep it brief but does anyone have any ideas what's going on and how to fix it?

 

Thanks,

 

[Leslie green 159]

The clocking and not starting main contenders are the starter motor which you have changed , the 7 pin plug of doom which you have checked and the ignition key barrel , you can but a new one of these cheap on ebay to see if it fixes it  but it will have a different key with it .I'm sure there are other possible causes but these are the main ones that fix most cars .

   The rough and rich running can be down to  breather and vacuum  hoses etc that are leaking , things like the airflow meter co and throttle body/ micro switch on it  not setup right , there is a procedure in the haynes but the throttle body need taken of and all the small orifices in it cleaned out with carb or brake  cleaner so it can work right.

The brass screw on the throttle body to sets idle speed , the small screw at the back  sets the butterfly opening ,do not move this try set idle speed . The screw on the airflow meter sets co (richness)

A high idle is often the sign of a leak , you should be able to turn it down to 1000 rpm or lower .

[welshpug 1,721]

the starter clicking is a separate issue to the rich running. 

 

its due to a voltage drop to the solenoid, typically through corroed wiring, though sometimes, but rarely, the ignition switch wearing. 

 

also poor aftermarket alarm systems can often intercept the starter wiring and all too often use tiny wires adding to the voltage drop.

[David Simson 4]

On 8/3/2025 at 10:06 PM, Leslie green said:

The clocking and not starting main contenders are the starter motor which you have changed , the 7 pin plug of doom which you have checked and the ignition key barrel , you can but a new one of these cheap on ebay to see if it fixes it  but it will have a different key with it .I'm sure there are other possible causes but these are the main ones that fix most cars .

   The rough and rich running can be down to  breather and vacuum  hoses etc that are leaking , things like the airflow meter co and throttle body/ micro switch on it  not setup right , there is a procedure in the haynes but the throttle body need taken of and all the small orifices in it cleaned out with carb or brake  cleaner so it can work right.

The brass screw on the throttle body to sets idle speed , the small screw at the back  sets the butterfly opening ,do not move this try set idle speed . The screw on the airflow meter sets co (richness)

A high idle is often the sign of a leak , you should be able to turn it down to 1000 rpm or lower .

Leslie. Thanks for your ideas. I will follow them up.

[David Simson 4]

On 8/5/2025 at 7:56 AM, welshpug said:

the starter clicking is a separate issue to the rich running. 

 

its due to a voltage drop to the solenoid, typically through corroed wiring, though sometimes, but rarely, the ignition switch wearing. 

 

also poor aftermarket alarm systems can often intercept the starter wiring and all too often use tiny wires adding to the voltage drop.

Thanks for your thoughts. Will check. Cheers