MI16 cylinder head gasket advice

[richard64 0]

Hi I am about to replace the cylinder head gasket on my 1.9 MI16 aluminium engine and need some advice.

Is there a workshop manual on this site. I have seen reference to "Peugeot Mi16 workshop manual" it but cant find it?

What is the best torque settings for the head? There seems to be some variation looking at articles on Google.

Is it best to replace cylinder head bolts or reuse them(risk of snapping/ stretching)?

 Anything to be wary of. Reason for work is low compression on 2 cylinders(distributer end)

Any advice is welcome.

Apologies if this is posted in the wrong group/section.

Thanks

Richard  

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

Any links I've found posted previously for the Mi16 workshop manual (including the links to the downloads on 205gti.com) no longer work unfortunately but if you have the original Haynes manual torque settings, they are fine for use but a search on the XU engine forums on here should find you them or what others have used without issue.

 

I should have it somewhere on an old HDD but finding it could prove time consuming, I'll try to search a couple I have handy & if I find anything I'll post it in a reply as soon as I can.

 

The only variance to the haynes manual I used when I built my engines is doing the final 300' torque in three 100' stages following the correct order of tightening each headbolt.

 

Always replace the headbolts, they are stretch bolts & shouldn't be reused, the bigger fear on an alloy block XU engine is stripping the thread in the block which is very common now due to the age of them.

 

Timesert seems to be the favored method to avoid this now.

 

g

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

60Nm to seat them, back them all off

20Nm initial torque 

Then +300 degrees

 

Similar to what Graham describes, I usually do +90, +90, +90, +30 degrees round the sequence to total the +300 degrees rather than do it in one hit.

The sequence is the typical start in the middle and work outwards.

 

I would recommend always run a tap through the block threads first, 11x1.5 I think, usually a lot of rubbish comes out. I have helicoiled quite a few successfully, you need the 2xD length inserts if you need to do that. Making a simple drill guide helps a lot if you need to do it in the car. I've not used a Timesert here, but think they would be tricky to do as the threads are down a deep counterbore in the block.

 

Always use new head bolts, they aren't expensive in the grand scheme of things.

 

From memory the 405 Haynes manual has all the XU9J4 Mi16 torque settings in.

[DamirGTI 325]

I'll offer something different , no degrees just Nm's :

 

1- 30 Nm

2- 55 Nm

3- Loosen all bolts in spiral from 10-1

4- 80 Nm

5- 95 Nm

*6- Loosen with a long T bar 1/4 of a turn from 10-1 and tighten back (prior to loosening mark position first with tipex , and loosen-1/4-tight back up to the tipex mark)

(*optional , ie. not necessary)

 

Use light smear of good quality moly grease on the head bolt threads , and on the area under the head bolt heads .

 

For cleaning block bolt threads , use old head bolt prepared with the grinder - cut two slot/flutes on threads opposite of each other , and clean up the block bolt threads with that .. cutting tap from my personal experience is too "aggressive" for aluminum threads , it just weakens them making them more prone to strip especially for bolt on areas with a lot of clamping force/Nm .

 

 

 

Factory XU9J4 rebuild manual :

 

 

 

 

XU9J4 Rebuild Manual.pdf

[SRDT 146]

The "torque" method clamping force is influenced by how much friction you have on the threads and under the bolt head. That means that it's even more important to start with clean threads and use the specified lubricant.

 

The Peugeot Sport Gr.N engine manual is using the "300 degrees" method but with a few extra steps :

 

-OEM blots are lubricated with MoS2

-Make sure that the new bolts are correctly lubricated

-If needed use MoS2 dry spray

-Tighten in order (spiral starting from the center, as said above) at 2 m.daN then in order at 4 m.daN then in order at 6 m.daN

-Wait 5 to 6 minutes for the head to "rest"

-Slacken bolt N° 1, tighten it back at 2 m.daN then 300° in one go.

-Do the same with each bolt in order.