2.0 8 valve block with 1.9 Mi16 cylinder head, turbo

[C_G 0]

2.0 8v turbo block, 1.9 Mi16 cylinder head. Is there anyone who has done this before and could tell me what would be the right way of doing this? I managed to find the long ARP stud above the water pump so the cylinder head is held in place correctly. The timing belt kit I used is for a 306 S16, it has 1 tensioner and 1 idler pulley (the red paint on the bolt helped me find out where to drill a hole in the 1.9 Mi16 timing cover, it didn't fit otherwise). The tensioner pulley is set to the max so the belt can not get more tension, I hope this is enough and that it won't fail (hope you can see how much tension the belt has in the pictures as I 'checked' it using my finger, I don't have any tools to measure this) . Valves do not hit pistons, timing may be off a little as I have done this using only my eyes and not the correct timing pins or even a drill bit (I will buy a Peugeot timing set soon to check this again). Crankshaft pulley, gear wheel and standard MLS head gasket for RFS engine have been used. Unable to find the timing cover I was looking for (0320E5) under the engine mount so I will try to modify a 1.8 cover as seen in the picture. There is a bolt behind my finger on the picture that holds a cover in place but I am worried that it might damage the timing belt, the clearance is only 2 or 3 mm's. I am also having trouble with the oil breather hoses (2.0 8v turbo breather hoses) as I can't fit the oil filler anywhere when the Mi16 inlet manifold is fitted. Does anyone know if I have used the correct belt kit, if I should remove the bolt that is close to the timing belt and what I should do with the oil breather/filler hoses? Would appreciate the help as I am stuck (again)

[petert 550]

Use an XU10J4 adjustable inlet pulley, XU10J4 cam covers and matching cam cover pins. The lower one secures the plate of the pulley. I'd also use either an XU9J4 or XU10J4 harmonic balancer, as the timing pin is in the centre, not the outside, which will rotate over time. Use XU10J4 lower covers etc. 134T belt.

 

Thus basically, you're building an XU10J4 (Mi16 or S16) with an XU10J2TE block. Let me know if you need more pics.

 

Not sure about oil hoses, as I dry sump. There are differences between XU10J4 and XU10J2TE blocks in this regard.

 

Edited February 20 by petert

[welshpug 1,622]

You dont have an Mi16 belt kit there, thats a gti6 one which is 136 teeth long, thats why its not working.

 

The block is 11mm taller so you need to use the iron block Mi covers.

[C_G 0]

Thanks for replying, I believe I may indeed have a 136T belt kit, will order the correct one as well as the pulley. Unfortunately it is very difficult if not impossible to find parts for this engine like gear wheels or belt covers as nobody (in the Netherlands) has this in stock anymore. I was lucky to even find a wider crankshaft gear wheel/sprocket to allow for the wider 16V belt, not sure how I will be able to fit an XU9J4 or XU10J4 harmonic balancer using what I have as the 051346 isn't available anywhere, instead I have the 051377 sprocket (gti6). 1.9 Mi16 belt cover seems to fit as I don't have big gaps if I remember correctly. Will update when I have the correct belt kit

[welshpug 1,622]

there are some currently on ebay in italy   (https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p4432023.m570.l1313&_nkw=0831s5&_sacat=0),  0831 25 or 0831S5 are the two oem numbers for the 134tooth belt and two tensioners.

 

 

 

 

http://catcar.info/peugeot/?lang=en&l=c3Q9PTgwfHxzdHM9PXsiMTAiOiJNb2RlbCIsIjIwIjoiMzA2IiwiNDAiOiJCb2R5OiB3aXRob3V0IHBhcmFtZXRlcnMgXC8gRW5naW5lOiAyLjAgaSAxNnYiLCI1MCI6Im1lY2hhbmljYWwiLCI3MCI6InRpbWluZyBnZWFyIiwiODAiOiJDQU1TSEFGVCBCRUxUIENBTVNIQUZUIEdFQVIifXx8Y29kZT09MVBOM3x8Ym9keT09fHxlbmdpbmU9PUIwRjJHfHxjYXRfaWQ9PUZDVDAwMDF8fHN1YkdycF9pZD09RkNUMDAwN3x8cmVmZG9jcz09TjNGMDA4QTUwQXx8cmVmZG9jPT1OM0YwMDhBNTBBfHxzdWJHcnBOYW1lPT1DQU1TSEFGVCBCRUxUIENBTVNIQUZUIEdFQVJ8fHN1cHBsaWVyPT0%3D

[welshpug 1,622]

i don't recall specifically but there may be a difference in the position of the teeth between MI and gti6, but the twin tensioner setup will account for this, you'll likely find that one side needs to be cranked further to retain correct tension and still have the cams pinned.

[SRDT 146]

If you want to use only one tensioner you need vernier cam pulleys and a way to lock the cams in place when you're tensionning the belt.

[petert 550]

On 2/22/2024 at 7:41 AM, SRDT said:

If you want to use only one tensioner you need vernier cam pulleys and a way to lock the cams in place when you're tensionning the belt.

I guarantee 99% of RS cam belt changes wouldn't be optimised.

 

SRDT is correct, in that tensioning only the exhaust pulley will retard the cam timing. You need to equalize the tension on the inlet side. You have the ability to pin your two pulleys to the head (as per pic), and together with an adjustable inlet pulley and pinned crank, time the engine correctly.

[C_G 0]

On 2/23/2024 at 10:56 PM, petert said:

I guarantee 99% of RS cam belt changes wouldn't be optimised.

 

SRDT is correct, in that tensioning only the exhaust pulley will retard the cam timing. You need to equalize the tension on the inlet side. You have the ability to pin your two pulleys to the head (as per pic), and together with an adjustable inlet pulley and pinned crank, time the engine correctly.

Looks like a 1.9 Mi16 in this picture, do you happen to have a picture for the 2.0 Mi16? I have holes in the block to bolt in the sliding tensioner but I am not sure which ones to use and what the exact position for this tensioner would be. I have ordered a 2.0 Mi16 Dayco timing set on autodoc, however the package came directly from a company in Italy

[SRDT 146]