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pugfrank

Original finish to sills?

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pugfrank

Hi all, 

 

Im going to wire wheel back this area on my sill to expose extent of rust!  Thinking ahead, final finishing painting etc how do I replicate the textured surface you see along the sill? is it a stone chip product then body colour over the top? any help or best products to use much appreciated.

 

Between the lower quarter and sill should you have seam sealer applied? 

Thanks

 

PXL_20210911_143419117.thumb.jpg.eea113e605e7bfce7ded77d933c32c3c.jpg

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DamirGTI

That corner is common for rusting on a 205's .. nowadays especially , would be best to cut the rot out and weld in fresh metal asap , chemicals/rust converters will hold it from reappearing for some time but it'll inevitably bubble up again after a while .

 

Sill texture is sprayed rubberized PU stone-chip , then painted over .. usually you can choose three colours of the PU stone-chip - black , gray , white .. all of them are over- paintable products .

 

For better texture match , need to play a bit with the stone-chip spray gun , air pressure etc. .. also need to heat up the stone-chip UBS can (that's if you're using one) in a bucket of warm water prior to using it , that'll enable better in can mixing up ...

Also , can thin it down with paint thinner (nitro cellulose) if you want lighter coats/texture  .. can even thin it down as much and use it in paint spray gun (with bigger nozzle) .

 

Once sprayed , if needed (if it ends up rough or too much/heavy) leave it for a while to settle/harden then you can wet sand it to make it texture like the rest of the sill , ie. blend it into the existing area without noticeable difference/parting line . 

 

There's PU stone-chip products for professional use in UBS cans , they're better quality and as a bonus can thin them down with paint thinner , pre heat the cans  etc. ... but need air compressor and UBS spray gun .

Then , there's same stuff in ordinary spray rattle cans ... not as good/quality as above , and a bit light/thin coat from the can ...

 

For both , when buying some , must not to be confused/mixed up with the bitumen based undercoat .. as that one can't be painter over and it's commonly just black or dark gray color , oily/tacky and stays like so once sprayed/applied .

 

D

Edited by DamirGTI
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pugfrank
15 minutes ago, DamirGTI said:

That corner is common for rusting on a 205's .. nowadays especially , would be best to cut the rot out and weld in fresh metal asap , chemicals/rust converters will hold it from reappearing for some time but it'll inevitably bubble up again after a while .

 

Sill texture is sprayed rubberized PU stone-chip , then painted over .. usually you can choose three colours of the PU stone-chip - black , gray , white .. all of them are over- paintable products .

 

For better texture match , need to play a bit with the stone-chip spray gun , air pressure etc. .. also need to heat up the stone-chip UBS can (that's if you're using one) in a bucket of warm water prior to using it , that'll enable better in can mixing up ...

Also , can thin it down with paint thinner (nitro cellulose) if you want lighter coats/texture  .. can even thin it down as much and use it in paint spray gun (with bigger nozzle) .

 

Once sprayed , if needed (if it ends up rough or too much/heavy) leave it for a while to settle/harden then you can wet sand it to make it texture like the rest of the sill , ie. blend it into the existing area without noticeable difference/parting line . 

 

There's PU stone-chip products for professional use in UBS cans , they're better quality and as a bonus can thin them down with paint thinner , pre heat the cans  etc. ... but need air compressor and UBS spray gun .

Then , there's same stuff in ordinary spray rattle cans ... not as good/quality as above , and a bit light/thin coat from the can ...

 

For both , when buying some , must not to be confused/mixed up with the bitumen based undercoat .. as that one can't be painter over and it's commonly just black or dark gray color , oily/tacky and stays like so once sprayed/applied .

 

D

Thanks D, all very useful information. Just what i needed. 

 

Yes your right I applied some Bilt hamber Hydrate 80 (https://bilthamber.com/product/hydrate-80/) about 3 years ago! hehe,  car just coming out of storage so few bits like this to address!

 

Better learn to weld!

 

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pugfrank
21 minutes ago, DamirGTI said:

That corner is common for rusting on a 205's .. nowadays especially , would be best to cut the rot out and weld in fresh metal asap , chemicals/rust converters will hold it from reappearing for some time but it'll inevitably bubble up again after a while .

 

Sill texture is sprayed rubberized PU stone-chip , then painted over .. usually you can choose three colours of the PU stone-chip - black , gray , white .. all of them are over- paintable products .

 

For better texture match , need to play a bit with the stone-chip spray gun , air pressure etc. .. also need to heat up the stone-chip UBS can (that's if you're using one) in a bucket of warm water prior to using it , that'll enable better in can mixing up ...

Also , can thin it down with paint thinner (nitro cellulose) if you want lighter coats/texture  .. can even thin it down as much and use it in paint spray gun (with bigger nozzle) .

 

Once sprayed , if needed (if it ends up rough or too much/heavy) leave it for a while to settle/harden then you can wet sand it to make it texture like the rest of the sill , ie. blend it into the existing area without noticeable difference/parting line . 

 

There's PU stone-chip products for professional use in UBS cans , they're better quality and as a bonus can thin them down with paint thinner , pre heat the cans  etc. ... but need air compressor and UBS spray gun .

Then , there's same stuff in ordinary spray rattle cans ... not as good/quality as above , and a bit light/thin coat from the can ...

 

For both , when buying some , must not to be confused/mixed up with the bitumen based undercoat .. as that one can't be painter over and it's commonly just black or dark gray color , oily/tacky and stays like so once sprayed/applied .

 

D

Hi D,

 

Is this the product ? https://www.express-paints.co.uk/upol-gravitex-stone-chip-1-0l/

 

You use an applicator gun like this?  https://www.express-paints.co.uk/roberlo-rb1-variable-nozzle-shutz-gun/

 

Thanks for your help. 

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DamirGTI
41 minutes ago, pugfrank said:

Better learn to weld!

 

Definitely ! i always encourage people to try and lean how to weld ... it's very valuable skill , and there's so much you can do by knowing how to weld aside from cars/bodywork can fix/make/do all kinds of stuff , the list is pretty long ! .

 

MIG welding with shielding gas for beginners is , pretty easy .. stick SMAW and TIG are a bit/much harder , need a lot of practice . Best to start/try with an MIG machine .

 

Yeah .. been there too ! , there's good and then there's somewhat better rust converters .. depends on the brand/potency and of course the way you use it (like , cold weather/winter is not the time) . But in essence they're all the same , contains tannic acid .

 

Myself personally , like to use combined approach if i opt for "cleaning" the rust rather than cutting out : dry and wet (with acid) wire-brush , then treatment with rust remover (phosphoric acid , if form of jelly is handy for use on vertical surfaces) , then some more scrubbing/wire-brushing , then washing off with baking soda and drying , then rust converter and paint .

 

POR-15 is kinda the best (most durable) of the all ... it's not the rust converter , it's rust preventive paint .

 

D

Edited by DamirGTI
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DamirGTI
22 minutes ago, pugfrank said:

Hi D,

 

Is this the product ? https://www.express-paints.co.uk/upol-gravitex-stone-chip-1-0l/

 

You use an applicator gun like this?  https://www.express-paints.co.uk/roberlo-rb1-variable-nozzle-shutz-gun/

 

Thanks for your help. 

 

Yes , that's it ! (for both)

 

Though , not sure if that first bottle is actually UBS can or simply "pour bottle" ?! .. UBS can , it'll need to have screw on attachment on top , like this one (notice the crew on neck with two small prongs) : https://www.express-paints.co.uk/indasa-stone-chip-1-0l/

 

As for the gun , yeah that'll do .. but there's better ones , with more attachments hoses etc. , so you can use it also to spray cavity wax from UBS cans deep inside the closed body panels (like sills) , like : https://www.motipdupli.com/en/products/presto/underbody-protection/ipg-1166.html

 

 

D

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pugfrank
52 minutes ago, DamirGTI said:

 

Yes , that's it ! (for both)

 

Though , not sure if that first bottle is actually UBS can or simply "pour bottle" ?! .. UBS can , it'll need to have screw on attachment on top , like this one (notice the crew on neck with two small prongs) : https://www.express-paints.co.uk/indasa-stone-chip-1-0l/

 

As for the gun , yeah that'll do .. but there's better ones , with more attachments hoses etc. , so you can use it also to spray cavity wax from UBS cans deep inside the closed body panels (like sills) , like : https://www.motipdupli.com/en/products/presto/underbody-protection/ipg-1166.html

 

 

D

Thanks D.

 

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pugfrank
1 hour ago, DamirGTI said:

 

Definitely ! i always encourage people to try and lean how to weld ... it's very valuable skill , and there's so much you can do by knowing how to weld aside from cars/bodywork can fix/make/do all kinds of stuff , the list is pretty long ! .

 

MIG welding with shielding gas for beginners is , pretty easy .. stick SMAW and TIG are a bit/much harder , need a lot of practice . Best to start/try with an MIG machine .

 

Yeah .. been there too ! , there's good and then there's somewhat better rust converters .. depends on the brand/potency and of course the way you use it (like , cold weather/winter is not the time) . But in essence they're all the same , contains tannic acid .

 

Myself personally , like to use combined approach if i opt for "cleaning" the rust rather than cutting out : dry and wet (with acid) wire-brush , then treatment with rust remover (phosphoric acid , if form of jelly is handy for use on vertical surfaces) , then some more scrubbing/wire-brushing , then washing off with baking soda and drying , then rust converter and paint .

 

POR-15 is kinda the best (most durable) of the all ... it's not the rust converter , it's rust preventive paint .

 

D

Thanks D.

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