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Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi

Starter motor refurbishment -

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Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi

trying to refurb. a second valeo d9 e48 starter - I did one  new brushes works great - :) 

second pic even painted the casing blue - it works great. got the brushes from ebay confess it was cheap to do that 

just solder one of them onto the windings. I did a BOSCH one also it had four brushes and all these clips at the contact end

much harder - these valeo ones only two brushes seems really easy to work on. 

 

but this one, the armature doesn't seem to have continuity - but it doesnt look bad anywhere 

doesnt turn when reassembled 

 

I am right in thinking each copper segment should be connected to the next one ?

I noticed there two really chunky wires connected to each segment

none of them seem to look damaged although there is a small gap on one or two of them - 

Ill add more photos with a marking to show what I mean 

 

not sure how to solder any gaps - copper solder? 

 

might be more info on the site already I will look. 

 

maybe I can check the field is good using a compass - yet another visit to youtube maybe LoL 

any one who already did a few also would be great if you know already 

 

posting on the off chance no worries if not 

hope its in the right section also 

 

20210914_180842[1].jpg

20210914_180821[1].jpg

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309SRiguy

When enlarged to full size the photo shows a lot of cracking in the insulating resin. Is that normal? Could that cause the insulation to break down?

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Tom Fenton

I recently bought a recon starter for £35 with a 3 year warranty.

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Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi
9 hours ago, 309SRiguy said:

When enlarged to full size the photo shows a lot of cracking in the insulating resin. Is that normal? Could that cause the insulation to break down?

thanks great point Ill check that now 

 

Thanks @Tom Fenton might not be worth spending too much time on this 

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309SRiguy

I bought an modern style starter from Europe (Poland ?)  From memory it has 1.5Kw output instead of 1Kw.

It is smaller in size and being lighter I fitted it without the support bracket. It was so much easier to fit than the bulky old one. It hasn't worked loose or broken off the block after 20,000km so I think the removal of the brace has done no harm.

 

The XU5JA used to turn fairly slowly but the extra power overcomes the compression easily and spins the crank faster resulting in a good quick fire-up.

 

If you want details I can probably find details of the purchase.

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Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi

yeah that ll be great thanks - details of the purchase 

 

yeah now you mention it I start thinking:- the bosch one is massive. the valeo ones seems lighter and smaller. 

 

that's interesting and useful about the bracket not being essential thanks

 

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DamirGTI

Mitsubishi and Hitachi starters and alternators are the best , they seem to go for ages ...

 

I've an 206 RC/GTI Mitsubishi starter on my 205 , it's also lightweight fast spinning , nice cranking/spinning sound too ... and most important , no more starter problems since .

Before that , i had replaced think 3 old Paris Rhone (now bought by Valeo) starters in about 5 years , they where the old big bulky starters with which the early 205's/309's/405's/605's usually came from factory .

 

Not quite sure what seems to be the problem with the starter you're trying to rebuild ? no continuity on the rotor ?

With the thick dark copper-reddish wires , you need to scrape into them a bit in order to measure continuity , as they're covered with kinda thin plastic glue layer ..

I've rebuilt a few of them and never really found the rotor being bad to be honest , it's commonly wear on brushes+commutator surface , solenoid , and bad Bendix (on models with one) on some odd occasions found the magnets broken which then jammed the rotor (reason not to bang on the starter body trying to unsize/make it spin !!)

 

Trick with the assembling the brushes if there's no clips is , use small/thin zip ties and tie up the brushes and assemble like so .. once assembled cut and remove the zip ties .

 

D

 

 

 

Edited by DamirGTI
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Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi

thanks @DamirGTI   

I am not sure how to describe the problem - I will look that up now - is the rotor also called armature?  

 

I have found that, well at least one,  of the "segments" doesn't have continuity with the segments behind it?

 

the ones in front do  but not the one behind? attached pic  I marked the "faulty" segment 

I am not sure how it works? it seems to have two thick wires connected to each "segment" 

 

by segment I mean the thing I marked blue in the pic. 

 

ah so if you contact any segment - are they all supposed to have continuity ie zero resistance ie they are all connected? 

 

oh yeah I see 

 

20210916_140933[1].jpg

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Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi

minor update - they have got a replacement armature at as-pl.com/en

£24 + £9 for delivery 

cheaper than a new valeo one although valeo do them also 

 

might give it a try just for fun now I guess Im not going to save money just see if I can rebuild it

make it work 

 

I must have burnt out the windings somewhere - yeah the slots on the front picture above its not continuity through all of them which it should be. couple of them read forwards continuity but not backwards.

 

I dont know how it is wound but maybe I burnt out the thick wire.

 

It must be pumping through a lot of current as the wires look thick 

I know a friend who burnt out the end contacts so presuming its get pretty hot. 

 

thanks for advice :)

 

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309SRiguy

I purchased a CEVAM 3600 from Mister Auto.  

 

For quite a while now I have found mister-auto.co.uk to be unusable from a pc. They appear to be chasing the mobile phone users.   

 

autodoc.co.uk has a wide range. Outputs, prices, and number of teeth on the pinion vary. No CEVAM there but lots of the narrow body modern style.


Some 309 searches searches brought up cross reference to Mitsubishi and Hitachi as  Damir mentioned. 

 

 

 

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