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MrAndy

Steering Track rod replacing, correct parts etc..

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MrAndy

A small question about the steering parts.

 

I want to change the track rods with all the other parts, Haven't removed the old ones yet.

 

Is there something special with the inner joint removal? I have purchased a clamp-type removal tool for it, but haven't tested it yet.

 

Will it be opening nicely or with a big fight? Haynes says that the torq is 50Nm, so not so much anyway.

 

The autoparts store has 2 different options for the thread-size, is there a general rule, which one to expect, or do I have to open it to see what to order?

 

The car is built 10/1987 and first reg 01/1988 LHD 130Hp 1.9GTi

 

Thanks in advance :)

 

-A-

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welshpug

they are all the same, as are the track rod ends.

 

stilsons or pipe grips are sufficient for loosening of the inner joints.

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DamirGTI

.. same but different aftermarket brands differ in overall length by few mm.'s ! thus best buying in pair picking one brand .

 

Sorted on alignment machine if different in length , but the steering center will be off little bit .

 

D

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MrAndy

Thanks for both :)

 

I have 2 different tactics on changing the front suspension/steering parts...

 

1. Change the parts one by one and have a test-drive between changes, the steering wheel position tells you if the toe-angle has changed or not.

 

2. Infra-red temp gauge. Drive couple of kilometers on a level, straight road and stop the car without sudden movements. Then measure the tire-temperatures and that tells you if there is too much toe in/out. You should have the highest temp appr. in the middle of the tyre.

 

What do you think about these methods?

 

A

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MrAndy

I checked on autodoc.fi webshop and can find 2 different theads:

 

1. M10*1.25 and M12*1

2. M10*1.25 and M14*1.5

 

==> Both are promised to be suitable for my car..

 

I also measured the visible threads from the car, and they are:

- The outer ball thread diameter 9.7mm

- The toe-adjustment thread diameter 13.7mm

 

So I guess, I have to remove it and measure, to be sure.

 

A

 

ps. I'm checking for a complete track-rod including both ends..

Edited by MrAndy

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welshpug

M12 thread wont be 13.7mm will it now..

 

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MrAndy

Studied little bit more about the separate ends (inner/outer) and it seems to be that the threads are all as following:

 

- M10*1.25 Outer mounting (outer ball to the wheel-hub) - 35Nm

- M14*1.5 The toe adjustment thread in the middle

- M12*1.0 Inner mounting to the steering rack - 50Nm

 

A

 

ps. Added the Haynes-Torque values also here if somebody needs them later and finds this thread..

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Gohn

in case you haven't already done it with the stilsons, ..

I've found the inner tie rod flats are 16mm and the locknut 19mm

with it loose you just wind the tie rod end in or out

(spanners worked well when I did it but there's much less corrosion to worry about here)

with a new set of tied rod ends you can set the alignment with string or straight piece of timber or steel

done it a couple of times and it worked well

but then a couple of times the car was crabbing along kept trying to steer into the ditch !

and it can scrub your tyres real quick too, so recommend a proper shop for aligning instead

 

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Gohn

also andy,

I suggested some string and a straight stick

so, not sure how valuable my opinion is

but your alignment method 2 sounds pretty funny

are you aligning wheels or baking a souffle ?

method 1 gives a pretty good idea how close you got though

 

the alignment shop I use now also includes an inspection at about 2000km in the price

they check the tyre wear and adjust if needed

 

 

 

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MrAndy

Thanks Andrew :)

 

I actually believe in the fault finding in different locations by measuring the temps. The most obvious things in a car would be for example the brakes or bearings.

 

In the building maintenance work, they inspect electric cabinets to find broken components and loose connections with heat camera.

 

A  

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