ARB bracket bolt broke free - get rid?

[rikky 37]

I was removing the ARB entirely earlier from the subframe and the 16mm nuts on the driver side were very rusty and tight. I knew one would snap the captive rear welded part of the bracket.

 

Safe to drill them out completely and put a decent size M10 bolt or something through it? It's only clamping the ARB bracket over the bush and onto the subframe, right?

 

I hope the 6x subframe bolts aren't as bad because if they snap I'm going to have a nightmare I imagine.

 

Ta

Edited September 9, 2020 by rikky

[jackherer 543]

If an M10 was sufficient that's what Peugeot would have fitted! The ARB transfers the weight of the car from one side to the other which is a lot of force.

 

The two front subframe bolts are a bit of a pain if they wont come out or snap because they go into a captive nut in the chassis leg but the rear ones are generally OK as they go inside the car (as long as you haven't had any leaks.) However they tighten into a metal plate (1 plate each side that both bolts go into) and the plate is only held captive by some small tabs on the floor pan so if these come out you have to take the carpet out to put them back. Once you remove the first bolt put it back in before you try to undo the second bolt or you are guaranteed to dislodge the plate.

[rikky 37]

Well, since posting this, I looked around. A lot (everything in fact) show the part with 2x bolts instead. Maybe that's a better way of doing it to save the weld snapping on the thin bracket.

See photo.. actually, they look welded but they'd be easier to tighten if they did snap. The OEM 205 ones are feeble little things.

Edited September 9, 2020 by rikky

[rikky 37]

8 minutes ago, jackherer said:

If an M10 was sufficient that's what Peugeot would have fitted! The ARB transfers the weight of the car from one side to the other which is a lot of force.

 

The two front subframe bolts are a bit of a pain if they wont come out or snap because they go into a captive nut in the chassis leg but the rear ones are generally OK as they go inside the car (as long as you haven't had any leaks.) However they tighten into a metal plate (1 plate each side that both bolts go into) and the plate is only held captive by some small tabs on the floor pan so if these come out you have to take the carpet out to put them back. Once you remove the first bolt put it back in before you try to undo the second bolt or you are guaranteed to dislodge the plate.

Thanks, see my post above, looks like a lot of aftermarket replacements have 2x bolts now instead of the captive bolts (well, they're welded to the bracket on original ones). You'd be able to tighten them just as tight/tighter in fact than standard fitment this way.

(EDIT> they do look welded still, but more substantial bolts)

 

RE: subframe bolts, I'll just see how I get on. I saw Spoox do some sort of twin-bolt-plate thing which is probably how the OEM one is. I'll see how that goes. I can't find any part numbers anymore which is frustrating.

Edited September 9, 2020 by rikky

[jackherer 543]

IIRC that is how 309s have their ARB fitted from the factory. I guess they are only M10, I thought they were bigger.

 

Those plates are the same as the OEM ones. There is unlikely to be anything wrong with your old ones, if there is a problem it's likely to be with the tabs holding them in place.

[rikky 37]

4 minutes ago, jackherer said:

IIRC that is how 309s have their ARB fitted from the factory.

 

Those plates are the same as the OEM ones. There is unlikely to be anything wrong with your old ones, if there is a problem it's likely to be with the tabs holding them in place.

 

I also saw these (see photo) - are these a revised part/old part/off a different model? They're on eBay listed as being off a 1.6/1.9 GTI. But just second hand breaker ones. These look to do away with the welded back. Curious more than anything at this design. I imagine a lot of people snap the captive bolts undoing the ARB bolts underneath due to the skinny head/weld on them.

 

I think I'll just grind the bolt off for now and get the ARB off and buy some aftermarket ones like my photo above with the welded bolts.

 

This has all come about as I'm stripping the full front end for painting. I want the bodyshop to be able to just drop the subframe/shocks off and do what they need to do with minimal faffing about.

 

I could have left the ARB in place but it's all coming off anyway so I got impatient 

 

 

Edited September 9, 2020 by rikky

[jackherer 543]

They look unfamiliar which made me think they might be phase 1.

 

And I happen to have a phase 1 here currently and its subframe isn't fitted so I just had a look and it does have those clamps!

 

So they must be phase one only. I had no idea they were different, learn something new every day

[rikky 37]

Yeah just been scouring around to check before you replied, must be old part and the new one (which the bolt shears off) is the revised "new" one 

[DamirGTI 323]

57 minutes ago, rikky said:

 

I also saw these (see photo) - are these a revised part/old part/off a different model?

 

 

 

 

I have these ones on my red Ph1 ... not sure about my other 205's which are more "later models" .

 

They're an aluminum clamps , and problems which i had with those is often threads pulling/stripping off from the clamp bolt holes .. not the best idea to put aluminum parts on suspension me thinks , just too soft . 

 

 

D

[jackherer 543]

38 minutes ago, DamirGTI said:

not the best idea to put aluminum parts on suspension me thinks , just too soft

That does seem like a very odd choice. They must have been a lot more expensive to manufacture too. It's not like there is a huge weight saving to be had either. And having a third design for the same part on 309s is odd too, they must have invested way too much time and money into 205/309 ARB clamps over the years!

[DamirGTI 323]

Guess someone in the suspension department was a bit "obsessive compulsive" with designing , and repeatedly redesigning those clamps !

 

Bit strange choice of metal for suspension component for sure , anything aluminum with threads often makes me run away fast it's just s** material for threaded parts .

Always reminds me of the days when i used to do outboard engines , had so much problems with sized up bolts and stripped threads it was an nightmare to work on salt water used two stroke alu. engines back in the days .

 

 

D

 

[welshpug 1,621]

I do recall at least 2 types, one with studs one with nut and bolt.

[Gohn 62]

I think its pueg part # 509727

the first pic is for GTi , Rallye and TD

the second for all the other models

the catalogue was drawn on phase 1 clamps so it doesn't look anything like my actual ARB clamps

. dont have a phase 1 car so never seen them until the photo above.

 

[rikky 37]

25 minutes ago, Gohn said:

I think its pueg part # 509727

the first pic is for GTi , Rallye and TD

the second for all the other models

the catalogue was drawn on phase 1 clamps so it doesn't look anything like my actual ARB clamps

. dont have a phase 1 car so never seen them until the photo above

 

Thanks, it is 509727, that's bit I was searching for to find the above. 

 

Anyone used the Peugeot Servicebox eBay downloads that are like £2? I know they'll be knock off and like from 2013-2014 but it'll cover the 205 and give me a physical copy of what I need. My only issue is I mainly use a Mac so most of the downloadable ones are Windows based or require VMWare. Why aren't they just browser-based 

[Tom Fenton 1,524]

It’s easy enough to helicoil the alloy ones if needed. I’ve done a few as they do strip the threads sometimes 

[DamirGTI 323]

4 hours ago, rikky said:

Anyone used the Peugeot Servicebox eBay downloads that are like £2?

 

If you need just the 205/309/405 models , then this is still available on-line/no payment needed : http://www.miamistu.co.uk/pug/

 

For the rest  , try : http://www.catcar.info/en/

 

 

D