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davemar

Removing rear shock lower bolts

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davemar

After having to angle grind off my old rear shocks from the lower bolts on the rear arms, the M14 bolts are looking a bit rough. They'll probably be OK if I run a die over the threads, but ideally I'd like to replace them. But how hard are they to remove? I gave them a tap with a hammer, but don't want to bash too much and mushroom the ends if I'm stuck with them.

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Andy

If you need to remove them to replace, heat , penetrating oil and I am afraid , some persuasion with a hammer that does not like taking ‘no’ for an answer . Have replacements first before applying the above  treatment 

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Tom Fenton

It varies a lot, some will knock out with minimal effort, some I’ve ended up pressing out with great effort!

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davemar

Just tried some heat, releasing spray and plenty of hefty whacks with big Percy, but can't shift either of them. Debating whether to try drilling them out, but there's a lot of metal to shift there.

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farmer

They are not made / supplied by Peugeot now 

 

Be careful and get them out 

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Anthony
2 hours ago, farmer said:

They are not made / supplied by Peugeot now 

 

Be careful and get them out 

 

Bolts themselves aren't really the issue as you can use parts from common 306/Xsara beams that are still ten a penny - indeed, I threw away handfuls of those shock bolts last year as I had so many spare from days gone by when I refurbished beams.

 

More the problem if the bolts are seized solid is going to be getting hold of a matching pair of 205 trailing arms as replacements I suspect.  They will usually press out though as Tom says, but it's an awkward job because of the shape of the arm without a jig to hold it (or at least I find it awkward).

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davemar

I've managed to drill out one of them, though have made a little bit of a mess of the hole (wonky drilling angle), but not so bad to prevent a new bolt from fitting OK. Part way through drilling out the second one, but even though I've hollowed out 10mm of it, it is still strong enough to be stuck tight despite a few hefty whacks. Looks like I'll need to fork out on a larger colbalt drill bit.

 

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davemar

Finally got the other one out. Used a tungsten carbide 12mm bit in the end. It only shifted when there was only about 1-2mm of metal left in the bolt. Took a lot longer than I hoped!

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Tom Fenton

Ream the holes out 14mm then anti seize the new bolts before you fit them.

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davemar

Yes, exactly what I'm going to do. Mustn't let the new ones fuse themselves in the holes!

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jord294

If no history of having refurbed axle, probably best to get axle rebuilt and supplied with fresher trailing arms

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davemar

I had it refurbed quite recently... well it turns out it was 20 years ago I had it refurbed, but it only seems like a couple of years ago! Apart from surface rust it still seems in good nick and it hasn't suffered any sagging or knocking. When I had it refurbed all those years ago, they replaced it with uprated bearings and seals and claimed it'll last for a lot longer than any standard parts; and it has held up well.

 

I'm replacing the shocks, as they were worn out.

 

I'm just hope the year or so of sitting in my garage hasn't seized anything up.

 

 

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