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blandy

Crank seal or hockey stick leak

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Ozymandis

You have a genuine seal and a genuine tool?

 

Bin the aftermarket thing. (The spring tensioned garter seals been around a while and works fine for this, doesn`t need re-inventing just yet)

 

lube her up all over, with your preferred fat/Esso/spit/KY/crisp n dry

 

Pay close attention to the lip as your working it on.

 

Then wallop, in a controlled manner.

 

Imagine a similar process Your probably familiar with, be firm but dont hurt her, mind the lips.

 

 

 

 

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welshpug

payen seals i have used have had a fitting tool in the box.

 

as mentioned, the seals dont all have the spring due to a different construction and materials.

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Ozymandis
9 hours ago, welshpug said:

the seals dont all have the spring due to a different construction and materials.

Thats because they are cheese pared by accountants disguised as production engineers.

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welshpug

no, its different materials :lol:

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Andy

Sorry to intercept the post, but can you tell me where you got your seal fitting tool from? I dropped into my local Peugeot dealer yesterday( they are usually very helpful) to be told that they do not supply Peugeot special tools . As for Payen, I have in several occasions bought a complete Payen gasket set but not found any seal fitting tool included .

Andy

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welshpug

it came in the box with the seal, ive never used a gasket set as theres so much stuff you dont need in them!

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Ozymandis
14 hours ago, welshpug said:

no, its different materials

Pratt and Whitney tried this in the seal kits for the PT6A-67P family of engines fitted to Pilatus PC12 NG aerolanes, (a Swiss aeroplane) but have now gone back to spring tensioned garter seals, due to the increased incidence of leakage attracting the attention of the Swiss aviation body FOCA.

If they arent good enough for Swiss aeronautical technical standards setters but spring tensioned garter seals are then what do you think? You know better?

Have a read of Aviation Week`s back issues, this was a contentious issue , now resolved by using the more expensive spring tensioned design.

 

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blandy

tool i ordered from ebay 

 

The payen one i did order purely as seen a old post when searching saying it came with a tool which i now understand is because its of ptfe construction which aparently is meant to last longer and withstand greater temps but done more googling and seems very mixed response on either type to be honest  so will just fit my gen pug one purely because it was the most expensive option lol

 

 

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blandy

One more thing I’ve noticed today is the payen ptfe seal is also a lot thicker in diameter compared to the pug seal..

 

on on a separate note to prolong this whole saga is now the car has sat for a week I was a little concerened as was addimant before the hockey seals were ok but today looked moist around them no oil to touch but just looked like it whereas last week I cleaned the whole area with brake cleaner so whipped the sump off and replaced these as well.. so gotta wait till tomorrow now to rebuild as leaving them overnight to shrink

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Tom Fenton
15 hours ago, Andy said:

Sorry to intercept the post, but can you tell me where you got your seal fitting tool from? I dropped into my local Peugeot dealer yesterday( they are usually very helpful) to be told that they do not supply Peugeot special tools . As for Payen, I have in several occasions bought a complete Payen gasket set but not found any seal fitting tool included .

Andy

Tool is a bit of a grand term, I’d call it more of a guide.. This came with a new seal which I thought was a nice touch seeing as you usually get the bare minimum hence put it on the shelf.

I wouldn’t go out of my way to get one, unless you are a chimp it’s easy enough to carefully fit the seal without buggering it in the process. By far the easiest way is to do it whilst the bearing cap is off, if you are building the engine from scratch.

 

Andy you are welcome to borrow it if you wish.

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Andy

Cheers Tom. I see. Not quite what I was expecting. I have done the job a number of times without drama, but always been slightly concerned about judging the depth to which the seal should be inserted, as the recess is deeper than the seal. On one occasion, I bought a seal from a supplier on eBay. This seal was several mm deeper than the o.e one ( and a bit cheaper ) and could be driven fully home into the housing . Thanks for the offer of the loan.  May take you up on that for Speno’s engine , parts of which have now taken up residence in my garage !!! 

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blandy

Well turns out it my leak still persists. Did a track day and oil everywhere. Not enough to move a lot on the dipstick, but enough to make a mess everywhere. 

 

Looking again today it looks to be coming from behind the flywheel and weeping from the joint from engine to box. Certainly everywhere else seems dry apart from oily spray everywhere. 

 

Is is there anything else to look for as 100% convinced the seal is fitted perfectly this time. I put new hockey sticks in - I did leave 24hrs before trimming but not 100% convinced as they didn’t appear to shrink overnight, but to be throwing out the top of the gearbox vents puts me away from hockey seals. 

 

The core plugs and fitting were bone dry before when I had it apart so suggest there ok. I’ve checked the breathers - blown through and seem fine 

 

am I missing something or has it got to be a crank issue? Although again that looks ok 

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DamirGTI

There's an dye you can purchase for for finding the source of the oil leaks , kinda similar stuff as for the AC leaks , an bottle of a dye which you put inside the engine to be mixed with the oil then use an UV lamp for finding leaky area .

 

D

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