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2052006

Removing VTS gearbox

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2052006

Trying to remove 5 speed VTS box from my "gti6" engine.  Never done this with engine in car before and am having a 'mare.

I have taken all transmission to engine bolts out and the box partially comes away but not fully.  What am I doing wrong?

 

1. I am running an Mi16 clutch which I think is a "push" type, and therefore clutch arm does not need to be removed to enable fork to rotate?  Is that correct?

2.  Does the speedo drive (3 bolts) need to be removed (and why)?

3.  Does the starter motor need to be removed?

4.  Do I need to remove subframe to get box to drop (it is not obstructing it yet)

5. 9 transmission to engine bolts removed, is that right?!

6. Am I going to have to drop engine at all?

 

Help appreciated, thanks.

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petert
54 minutes ago, 2052006 said:

1. I am running an Mi16 clutch which I think is a "push" type, and therefore clutch arm does not need to be removed to enable fork to rotate?  Is that correct? Yes

2.  Does the speedo drive (3 bolts) need to be removed (and why)? No

3.  Does the starter motor need to be removed? Yes

4.  Do I need to remove subframe to get box to drop (it is not obstructing it yet) It makes it a lot easier if you loosen all six subframe bolts and lower the gearbox side

5. 9 transmission to engine bolts removed, is that right?! Nine? There's only four.

6. Am I going to have to drop engine at all? Makes it easy if you undo/remove lower engine mount and lower the gearbox side.

 

You're welcome.

 

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Tom Fenton

Speedo housing doesn't HAVE to come off, but you'll find it makes it quite a lot easier re installing the box if it is off.

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welshpug

if it's a vts box and engine there may be 6 bolts, two go into the sump as well as the 4 into the block, definitely not 9.

 

unless 3 of those were for the starter motor.

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2052006

Thanks all.

 

Yes, I must have been counting the 2 through the sump and the starter motor bolts too.

 

Anyway, managed to get the bastard thing off.  What a complete ball-ache of a job.  I will remove the subframe to aid installation.

 

Have also got the clutch and flywheel off (the point of this job is changing the flywheel).

 

On to next problem:

 

There is what appears to be a little dribble of engine oil coming through some of the flywheel bolt holes (where flywheel bolts to crankshaft).  Is this the crankshaft oil seal failing?  There was no oil on the actual flywheel/clutch.  Were the flywheel bolts holding the oil in?  Are they meant to?!  There is no real oil escaping from the actual seal itself.  The seal I replaced a few years ago, last time I had the engine/box out.

 

 

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Anthony

Oil will come out of the flywheel bolt holes if you've got the engine drooped down at the flywheel end and the sump full of oil, as those holes are open-ended through the end of the crank.

 

You'll need to jack the engine up a bit (or drop the oil) and clean the holes with brake cleaner or similar before bolting the flywheel back on, as the threadlock won't work properly if the threads are oily.

 

If the crank seal itself is leaking you'll see the seal will be noticeably damp and oily, and if bad enough, evidence of oil running down from the seal onto the sump.

 

If you thought removing the 'box was a ballache, you're going to love refitting it single-handedly if you've not done it before.  I'll probably be able to hear the blue language from Swindon :lol:

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2052006

Thanks Anthony, good to know.  Will drop the oil, as was going to change it anyway.

 

Yeah, not looking forward to trying to get the bloody thing back on:(  Any tips for re-fitting?

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welshpug

I wouldn't remove the subframe, only thing I would do that aids getting it in is the speedo housing.

 

the battery tray/gearbox mounting can be removed easily, 4x M8 screws which will give you more access.

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2052006

Is it worth replacing the input shaft guide and seal(s)?  Not done that before, anything to note?  I don't think it's leaking or anything but is it something that should be done whilst the box is off?

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