309 beam rebuild, track car, what to do?

[floodys 4 1 Cars]

Just after a quick bit of advise, I've had a quick search and can't find the answer I'm after on here!  The track car has standard 309 disc beam and a front end 309 set up, I'm quite happy with it and how it handles on track, last track day we did I've noticed the beam needs a rebuild as I have quite a lot of play in the o/s. My thoughts were/are to strip it down and do the bearings and anything else it needs but thought that while I'm there (no rush) would it be worth trying to find some thicker bars for it and possibly fit different camber arms?  (If I can find the parts!) my other options is that I have a fully rebuilt never used 1.9 beam with new bearings/shafts etc in the garage that I could "pull apart" to use the arms and new shafts on the 309 beam with new bearings?  Other thing I could do is to bolt on the 1.9 beam and use that but from memory the 205 1.9 beam that was originally on the track car didn't feel as good as the current 309 beam!

 So, will I see/feel much of a improvement if I do do bigger bars and different camber arms on the 309 beam or just get the 309 beam all fixed up and "as new"? I have a bit ££ to spend but not crazy money, not sure what these parts cost nowadays if I/one can find them? Cheers all

[welshpug 1,622]

205 beam with a bigger roll bar is my vote.

[floodys 4 1 Cars]

So not to worry about different camber arms?

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

Depends how serious you get. If you find you are constantly scrubbing the outer edge of the rear tyres off then it would point to different geometry needed.

But I would say there are probably other places to spend the money first. Rear torsion bars and anti roll bar, and dampers are where I’d be looking. Solid mounting the beam is also a good idea.

[floodys 4 1 Cars]

Cheers Tom, tyre wise it's on R888 and they wear very well across the tyre, no scrubbing at any point tbh, I drive it quite hard round the track ( I think!)  and I'm very happy with the general set up, it's always been on solid mounts since I've had it, shocks etc are just the gaz coilover ones at front and adjustable at the rear,  couldn't tell you what they are set at but it works ok as it is so I don't generally go fiddling with it. 

 In theory if I were to get a bigger roll bar for the 205 beam I have and try it I wouldn't have much to lose as parts like that will always hold their money if I didn't feel much difference and wanted to go back to the 309 beam?

[j_turnell 134 3 Cars]

I've just picked up some Berlingo/Partner 21.3mm bars new from Neat autos for £150 (£250 from Pug) for my 309 beam. The splines on one of my stock 309 torsion bars are worn causing some play so thought this would be a good upgrade as well as fixing the issue. I also use 306 arms and a 24mm arb in the back and really like how planted it feels, but I only really use mine for fast road.  Using a 205 beam should improve turn in over the 309 given the reduced track width when compared to the front but I guess it will also depend on what ARB and Torsion bar thickness you are using. I've always been a fan of the 309 beam so think I'm going to stick with it.

 

You can use a 106 gti 24mm arb in a 205 beam, nice cheap upgrade. 

[petert 550]

I'm not a fan of 306 arms for track use. Whilst they have more neg camber, they toe in, which really kills the turn in. Your best avenue is to get the Bridgecraft arms and axles modification, in order to get neg camber and toe out. You definitely need to solid mount it and fit the largest torsion bars and ARB you can.

 

Cheapest option is to use 205 arms and/or complete rear end.

Edited November 27, 2017 by petert

[floodys 4 1 Cars]

Right , I can get a pair of  23mm torsion bars,  also been offered a 24mm or a 25mm anti roll bar, also thinking of sending of my trailing arms to bridgecraft for the camber to be done,  I think I'm going to stick with my 309 beam as thinking It can  only improve it, so quick question, should I do all the above while I'm doing the job, or is there a order of the more essential bits to do, ie just torsion bars, then anti roll and camber or is it going to be pointless doing say the torsion bar and not the antiroll bars? As a rough price I guess all in for parts that lot including bearings is about £500ish? To much, about right? I'm not sure what sort of money a "done" updated beam is worth/cost to buy? Cheers all

Edited November 28, 2017 by floodys

[petert 550]

In a perfect world you'd do it all in one go. On a limited budget you'd do it in an order that minimises labour costs pulling stuff in and out.

 

ie

Step 1: reco beam, along with solid mounts & Bridgecraft mods

Step 2: add 23mm torsion bars

Step 3: add 25mm ARB