Proper Way To Preload Wheel Bearing

[idoari 10]

Hi. I need ro replace my rear wheel bearing in my 1.6 gti. I know the process includes:

*Apply handbrake
*Lossen the wheel bolt and the hub nut.
*Jack up the car support with axle stands
*Remove the wheel
*Remove hub nut.

*release handbrake
*Tap on the drum with a hammer and remove it
*Remove the front bearing circlip
*Remove the old bearing (with a press or with the special tool)
*Clean and inspec the bearing bore for wear and corrosion (replace drum if the bore is too damaged)
*Apply a anti-seize compound on the back of the bearing(where they contact with the bore of the drum) to prevent them from seizing to the drum.
*Center the bearing and tap gently with rubber/brass hammer to seat it in straight.
*Press the new bearing in (using the tool we chose to remove it) - make sure it goes in straight.
*Install the circlip - you can put a little anti seeze on the back of it to prevent it from binding.
*Clean and lubricate the stub axle with a little of axle grease.
*install the drum.

Now what are the next stages? Just torque the axle Nut to 260nM (about 191 ft -lbs)?

Thanks
ido

 

p.s. You can put the topic as "sticky topic" if you want.

Edited August 26, 2015 by idoari

[Tom Fenton 1,564]

You have missed a step, release the handbrake as otherwise you won't be able to remove the drum.

[idoari 10]

yes of course ... i forgot to write it - fixed!

Edited August 26, 2015 by idoari

[idoari 10]

ANYONE.....?!?!

[Tom Fenton 1,564]

To be honest I rarely bother torqueing them up these days on my own cars, just a good pull to F.T. with a large bar then stake the nut in works for me.

[Tom Fenton 1,564]

Haynes manual states "Rear hub nut 215Nm"

[idoari 10]

i'm not a "Torque guru" but some thing needs to be torque. if not they will wear-out.

i know for a fact that if you over tight or under tight them they could be damaged - they have a "sweet spot".

think about it ... each bearing supporting 1/4 of the car weight so they have a vertical force on them but if you over tight them you will add a horizontal force to it and stress them more then you need to.

 

watch this video

 

granted , this bearing is a different type but i think it the same principle.

Edited August 27, 2015 by idoari

[welshpug 1,682]

if the bearing is a different type then NO its not the same principle.

[Tom Fenton 1,564]

Go look at the rear wheel bearing, the inner races butt up solid together, and do not compress, so it doesn't make much odds.

I don't need to think about it, I already understand how they work.

[Grenouille 4 1 Cars]

I think that it's important that the bearing is torqued to the correct value. Whether this changes from bearing type to bearing type I'm unsure. Also how sensitive this is, I'm unsure and I'm relatively confident that it could be done by 'feel' without any issues - I've done this myself. My thinking is; if you've got a torque wrench handy and know the setting, use it.

 

As for your question, I can't see any other steps that you're missing, other than fitting wheel etc, which seems a bit trivial to add.

 

For what it's worth, having no access to a press (other than local mechanics), we used an oven and freezer to fit the new bearing...a bit rough, but it did work and the bearing seems to be ok. Time will tell on that one though!

 

Andy.

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

I'd like to see you torque a manually preloaded car wheel bearing up to 200NM +!! It'd be rock solid!!

Edited September 22, 2015 by allanallen

[Ozymandis 97]

To be honest i don tbother to use the torque wrenches on any wheel bearing on anything i ever work on these days.

As to 205 rear ones im with Tom ,big bar and a heave

Freezer, Lump hammer, warm drum BANG BANG BANG Job jobbed

Stupidest wheel bearing set up is MGB front, opposed taper rollers with spacer and shims to do what every other manufacturer does by tightening and then backing off for a little float,