dobboy 231 2 Cars Posted January 31, 2015 Before i put new oil in my engine, i was wondering what the consensus is from the mechanics on here regarding using an engine flush, such as Wynns. I've used one in the past on a GTI6 and i think the engine was a bit quiter for it, but know some mechs discourage it. Do any of you use them regularly on customers cars etc? TIA Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
erbs 42 1 Cars Posted January 31, 2015 (edited) Personally i would use cheap oil as a flush run that for a few miles, dump the cheap stuff then put in a good quality oil. Edited January 31, 2015 by erbs 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joshsnoad 2 Posted January 31, 2015 yep second the above ^^^^^^ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dobboy 231 2 Cars Posted January 31, 2015 It's not a newly built engine and i'm not trying to get rid of known debris or the like. The remains of the oil in the engine when i got it looks good. This is more a bit of an internal maintenance excersise i'm thinking of doing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Slo 283 1 Cars Posted February 1, 2015 When i did my turbo conversion the engine had been sat on the floor at the back of my garage for 18 months with old oil in it which hadnt been changed for about a year before that so pretty grotty. I took off the cam cover, removed the spark plugs and everything sensor wise and jetwashed it all out until no grot came from any hole, the amount of s*it that came out of the sump drain hole was unreal. Then after replaced all the seals and everything rubber on it and used a decent brand semi synthetic oil. Afterwards a quick spin over with the coilpack disconnected and no plugs installed to remove any water in the cylinders and prime the oil pump. No worries on water left in it as the heat would have just evaporated anything left over. I've always done this and never had any problems before anyone wants to jump all over me. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
harryskid 193 Posted February 1, 2015 Don't try this at home! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Slo 283 1 Cars Posted February 1, 2015 (edited) And why not? I'm not suggesting anyone does this and I wouldnt reccomend trying this on an engine that isnt going to be used immediately after or stored over time. Mine was run as soon as the water stopped dripping out and run until the fan kicked in to evaporate any water left behind. Amazing what water pressure can blow out that an engine flush wont touch, next time I may remove the sump to be thorough. Edited February 1, 2015 by Slo Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wicked 103 3 Cars Posted February 2, 2015 Because you jet wash the sand/dirt in the engine and only water will evaporate, so the sand can remain in the engine. To flush the engine I've used Forte Engine Flush. You need to add it to the old oil and let it idle for half an hour and then drain. According to the instructions, you should not drive with it, nor load the engine and indeed you shouldn't, as the oil gets really thin as water. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
calvinhorse 870 Posted February 2, 2015 (edited) Jesus Christ Slo! You can't be serious?? I'd also flush with cheap oil rather than a flusher on a second hand engine, it could flush out dirt and carbon that is sealing the engine and cause a leak Also you won't get all of the flushing solution out and that will thin your new oil Edited February 2, 2015 by calvinhorse Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Slo 283 1 Cars Posted February 2, 2015 Yeah i've always done it to engines that have been stood for a long time, I forgot to mention that I run some cheap auto glug through it for 5 minutes and drain before i fill it with the good semi stuff. Don't see the problem myself other than if it wasn't going to be run anytime soon water inside could promote rust but that isn't going to be a problem in a runner. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GLPoomobile 958 Posted February 2, 2015 (edited) The other concern I'd have with "washing" an engine with a jetwash would be surface corrosion forming, which can happen really quickly even if you do assemble and run it up to temp straight after. The surface corrosion might not be particularly abrasive to moving parts and may wear off easily, but there will be parts that won't be in contact and the corrosion will remain. It may not be a significant issue but it just sprang to mind. Suppose you could just cake it in WD40 immediately though. I'm sure when engine flushing has been discussed before some people have recommended using diesel oil. EDIT: Slo posted about the rust while I was still typing. Edited February 2, 2015 by GLPoomobile Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Slo 283 1 Cars Posted February 2, 2015 I do that poo but rather than wd40 I use copious amounts of the cheap dp-60 that you can get from most pound shops, it goes a long way for a quid. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dobboy 231 2 Cars Posted February 2, 2015 I thought the point of using an engine flush was to break down the tar/sludge stuck in the crevaces that general oil can't pick up and filter out. Can't see any other type of oil doing that hence why engine flush/oil thinner is used to break it down and get it mobile. Missed the boat this time but will prob do it with the Wynnes stuff next change. Would never have thought of using HP water, would have thought any residue of it would have you thinking you had HG troubles. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
harryskid 193 Posted February 2, 2015 I expect its correct to flush the cooling system with oil then! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dobboy 231 2 Cars Posted February 2, 2015 I've often wondered how the brake fluid, expansion tank, and washer bottle would come up after a good dishwasher cycle. Don't suppose they'd come up as well as the alloy wheels! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daviewonder 533 3 Cars Posted February 2, 2015 I've seen stuff on other forums where washer bottles etc have been through the dishwasher and they have come up like new. Not tried it myself though as I'm not at that stage with any of mine yet. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
farmer 327 1 Cars Posted February 2, 2015 Worth a try as all are unavailable from Pug now. Mr Auto do a pattern expansion bottle for 20 bucks though Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars Posted February 2, 2015 It would be interesting to see an engine stripped after a few miles and see how much emulsified oil has attached itself to the engines insides. The engines breather system struggles to deal with naturally occurring condensation without adding in anymore moisture. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
allanallen 528 2 Cars Posted February 2, 2015 I've often wondered how the brake fluid, expansion tank, and washer bottle would come up after a good dishwasher cycle. Don't suppose they'd come up as well as the alloy wheels! It works a treat, done it several times with all the plastic bottles. Dishwasher tablets are magic 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
