Back End Slipping Out

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

I can get a "BRB" kit for £69

 

guy say's they are good quality (but i'm sure he would)

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

SKF are the only ones I'd fit personally

[GLPoomobile 958]

Regarding the beam mounts, Group A is full solid, which is to say you get a pair of alloy blocks to replace the OE rubber sandwich mounts at the back of the beam, and a pair of solid nylon bushes to replace the OE rubber bushes at the front of the beam. I think, though I'm not certain, that Group N is just replacement rear sandwich mounts using a harder compound. So Group N will remove a small amount of compliance, which will reduce rear steer a little bit, and Group A will remove a lot of the compliance and reduce the rear steer a lot more.

 

As for preference, I'm a big advocate of the Group A kit. The solidity of it does not come at the expense of comfort or road manners (IMO, and in a full interior road car). You may well get a very small amount of resonance from the back end, but if you've already got a noisy whell bearing you won;t notice any difference!

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

 

Yesterday i made a conscious effort not to approach corners as fast, and just kept a gentle bit of gas on through the corners, and the back end felt fine

 

Turning in on a trailing throttle is a sure fire way for the car to feel awful.

 

Brake in a straight line. Turn in. Then back on the throttle and drive through and out of the corner.

[Henry 1.9GTi 36]

I think mine were SNR. But had SKF stamped on them or something like that. Checked Mister Auto and are £100 a side. But I'm sure I had them alot cheaper!

[welshpug 1,627]

Ive had snr in firstline or premier boxes, much cheaper and decent quality

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

I checked my wheel bearings yesterday, and the Malc and Davie from here checked them again later for me, and fortunately everything appears fine with them.

 

Another quick Q for someone, I've never had the front tracking done on my car since conversion/and new suspension, so i recently went to get 4-wheel alignment done. The guy thought the clips he had for the wheels/tracker? would scratch my wheels when trying to fit them as my tyres have rim protectors (TR1's), so it wasn't done. My steering wheel sits fairly central and car doesn't pull either way, so i don't think there's great urgency.

 

I'm hoping to fit the solid mounts this weekend, and I've got a spare set of wheels and tyres that i can fit to let the 4-wheel alignment to be done, but just wondering what sort of adjustment is there to be had on the rear beam? are the holes on the body of the car for these mounts slotted or circular etc?

 

And to throw something else into the mix, i'm currently plucking up the courage to tackle changing my 1.9box to a VTS box, should i be waiting until this is done before getting the alignment done?

 

Also!, but unrelated to the above, when i first ran my engine and was giving it short sharp bursts and stops through an industrial estate before car was road legal, i could feel knocking on the brake and clutch pedal every now and again. I realised that is was due to the plastic cam cover needing another bite off it, as it was hitting the end of my MC. Before this engine was put in, i had removed the servo and gave it a rub down and painted it with VHT, and fitted a new MC and reservoir bottle seals.

 

I know my old original 205 MC seals were leaky. But i've now noticed that on the newly painted servo, just below where this new MC joins it, the paint is peeling/melting off. I don't "think" i'm loosing any brake fluid but understand a minor amount of fluid could do this to the paint, and have been checking the level regularly. I'm hoping it's old fluid that had trickled down from the old knacked seals, that wasn't cleaned off 100% before i painted the servo. Or, is it mechanically possible (at all) for fluid to leak from a MC at the point where it joins the servo?

 

And in Columbo style, "one more thing", do the pedals need to be removed to allow removal of the servo with a GTI6 still in?

 

 

(I'm swithering towards biting the bullet and removing my engine and box together to allow me to fit the VTS box and tidy/change servo at same time, which i'd feel more confident in doing than fitting the box alone. Fortunately I fitted a big multi-plug in the engine bay on my 16V loom where it marries the 205 loom that allows me to lift the lot out with the wiring intact)

 

 

Sorry for the short story!

 

TIA

[Henry 1.9GTi 36]

no adjustment other than giving it a shove with the bolts loose. Only do this if its uneven side to side on toe. If its really uneven then something is bent or a beam bearing is falling apart.

 

Would recommend doing 4 wheel alignment after engine/box out as usually most of the suspension joints are undone to do this.

Edited September 9, 2014 by Henry 1.9GTi

[GLPoomobile 958]

Unless you know for sure that you front track is not too far out of spec, I'd get it done ASAP otherwise it could be a very expensive mistake tyre wise. When I bought a 1.9 some years back it had fairly new tyres on it. A few months later it went in for MOT nd the inner edge of both front tyres was severely worn. When I got the alignment done, unsurprisingly it was way off (toeing out IIRC).

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Any views on my MC issue chaps?

 

I've looked on the net how the MC is made up and operates, and it looks as though it is possible that the fluid near the "primary" piston could weep towards the servo if there was some sort of damage, but is this likely if it was hit on the end by the engine?

 

Has anyone ever seen this on a new one that's not been bumped?

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

I spoke to a mechanic i know about my MC issue, he say's if there was a problem with my MC internal seals that the vacuum would be drawing fluid into the servo, and my fluid level would be dropping, likely significantly.

 

Does that sound about right?

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

If the mc was leaking inside the servo it's unlikely it'd leak around the joint between the cylinder and servo. The cylinder points downhill and is a good inch or so into the servo, it'd drip off and end up in the bottom of the servo IMO.

Much more likely is a spill when you changed the seals or a slight weep from them.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Alan, i hope you're right but i can see how it could be on the facia of the servo from a dodgy seal in the MC.

 

Looking at this generic MC

 

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mastercylinderreplace/howworks.html

 

I don't remember there being any gasket to fit between the MC/Servo, which isn't ideal after reading up how a servo works, so if i had somehow damaged the "bore hydraulic seal" on the above image, then fluid could/would likely make it's way down the front of the servo (even when the car isn't running) and could be new fluid causing the paint to come off?

 

 

But looking at the general make up of a MC, i can't see a good few dunt's on the nose of it wrecking it, i would probably have bent the facia of the servo if the bumps were that severe.

 

So i'm thinking, it must be old fluid from the dodgy old bottle seals, or the internals of my MC were never right to begin with.

 

The new MC and seals between MC and bottle look and feel dry, and from day 1 i put a cable tie round the reservoir bottle and MC to stiffen it up and stop the bottle vibrating.

 

 

I think i'm back to square 1 how do i work out if this paint is getting removed by old or new fluid..... (and access to it is murder as well).

[jackherer 543]

There should be an O ring between the MC and the servo.

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

There should be a seal between the servo and mc. If the 'bore hydraulic seal' was knackered you'd have no brakes very quickly and I'm still not convinced you'd get oil leaking where you're suggesting because it's sealed (or should be) for starters!

 

The servo shouldn't be painted anyway. I imagine it's just residue from messing with it.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

i'll get another look at it.... i'm almost certain there was no seal.

 

(It's annoying me and i want it sorted as poor bottle seals not sorted by previous owner caused a 50p hole on bulkhead/chassis leg, and it was hairy to weld with all the dash insulation and fuel lines in the vacinity, and could only really be accessed as i had no engine in at the time.)

 

Thanks for your input.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Allen, i don't see a gasket fitted between MC/servo on service box.

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

There is, it's what stops the vacuum escaping init!

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

I know what you are saying, but there isn't on service box that I can see.... Under servo or MC.

 

But, had another look at my servo, and there is no fluid present at all on it, but the paint looks like it has had nitro put on it..... It must just be old fluid in the pores of the metal.

[jackherer 543]

New MCs usually come with a new seal, it's just a black rubber square section O ring.

 

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

In that case i probably have one. I was expecting a gasket including the fixing holes,

 

Cheers jack!