Oil Leak From Sump Gasket

[scottbarton 34 1 Cars]

Pretty sure there is a gasket of some sorts and its weeping, leaving a small puddle of oil (in law not happy with the new block driveway! oops!)

Have tried nipping the bolts up, some of which were clearly loose, but its still weeping.

 

Found this gasket on eBay, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Elring-Oil-Sump-Gasket-Peugeot-205-Mk-II-1-9-GTI-1987-1998-/360928443542?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3APeugeot%7CModel%3A205%7CCars+Year%3A1991%7CPlat_Gen%3AMK+II%7CCars+Type%3A1.9+GTI&hash=item540902fc96

 

Or can i simply use some RTV sealant?

 

Want to do the job properly once, rather than a repair thats going to leak again in 6 months time!

 

 

[Kane 34]

Gasket sealant would do the job just make sure the surfaces are thoroughly cleaned prior to application. Can be a bit of a pain as you'll have to wait until all oil has drained down from the internals so not to contaminate the sealant.

 

I've not used it personally but I've heard good things about threebond products, specifically 1211 for gasket jobs.

[Anthony 1,000]

If it's a tin sump, use a decent gasket having first checked that the sump is true

 

If it's an alloy sump, use a decent RTV sealant having first ensured that everything is completely degreased

 

To be honest I tend to find tin sumps an utter pain to get completely leak free and stay that way because they so often seem to be slightly distorted on the mating face, but alloy sumps are much easier and I don't tend to have too many issues with them - if doing them on the car though, you need to ensure that everything is absolutely spotless and that there's no oil on the inside of the block that could run down and contaminate the sealant before it's set. Much easier out of the car with the engine upside down on a stand!

[farmer 327 1 Cars]

Scott get a genuine Pug gasket I have had no issues when using them.

 

About same price as that EBay item as well.

Edited August 5, 2014 by farmer

[welshpug 1,627]

gsf do the o.e gaskets reasonably priced.

[scottbarton 34 1 Cars]

Cheers guys, will check what kind of sump I have and go from there. Pug OEM gasket has got to be the way forward if i need one, but will get some RTV sealant as well just in case. :-)

[farmer 327 1 Cars]

I have gen gasket here but they have cardboard backings and quiet bulky, best picking up from Robins and Day Maidstone for example

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Having had some Sump gaskets from Pug last week, the quality seems to have gone down the pan, We'll have to see if they seal but it's Payen next time

[mrfirepro 127 1 Cars]

Scott,

 

If you need one quick I have one here you can replace at any time.

[welshpug 1,627]

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/116pc0020

 

Meillor was the o.e brand, iirc the last one GSF supplied was Corteco, Meillor is a Corteco brand.

Edited August 5, 2014 by welshpug

[unariciflocos 49 1 Cars]

I've tightened my sump bolts to the point of stripping threads and having to retap them to M8 and was still weeping. It may also have to do with the fact that I have 3 gaskets because I'm using a PTS sump baffle, but I use high quality Victor Reinz or Elring gaskets.

 

Last weekend I also added some Victor Reinz silicone on both sides of the gaskets and am hoping that will hold now.

[scottbarton 34 1 Cars]

Just an update to close this thread out....

Took the sump off today, and replaced with an OEM Peugeot gasket. Arms are killing me with the amount of bolts that needed undoing! ha ha!

Cleaned the surface up, the old gasket was completely shot and literally fell apart as i removed the sump. Re-fitted, new filter, oil, and sump plug and took her for a run. No leak so far!

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Sounds very much like a pattern one, the gaskets should key themselves to the Alloy and sump and are a right pain to remove, always makes me laugh when you see these gaskets stuck on with sealent

[scottbarton 34 1 Cars]

I do think that it may of been replaced at some time before. There were 5 different bolts (allen key bolts) compared to the rest that were standard bolts.

All came undone easily enough which was a bonus.

Edited September 14, 2014 by scottbarton

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

The Allen bolts should be there, in the right order too

[scottbarton 34 1 Cars]

Ok....now you have me worried! Where should the Allen bolts of gone? I noticed there was also two slightly shorter length bolts...they seemed at home either side of the oil temperature sender.

I replaced the Allen bolts where they came from (front side of the pan) but is this right? Considering it may of been off before? Pretty sure there was 5 of them.

[Kane 34]

I'm looking for confirmation of the short bolt location as well and if there are any major issues with putting the longer bolts in the incorrect position. The reason for asking is that my sump did not have different length bolts when I removed it and I have had a nasty leak from the flywheel end of engine.

[welshpug 1,627]

the shorter pair go into the flywheel end main cap, the socket cap heads go on the front corner, IIRC the 405 Haynes manual has a diagram of locations, possibly some listings on servicebox also.

[mrfirepro 127 1 Cars]

I have a similar issue, new engine in and running over the weekend, however I have noticed two oil leaks, one at each end of the block. I am hoping (and praying) it's the sump that is leaking.

 

However unusually on this sump there were no allan screws, I also used two (Elring) sump gaskets but no sealing compound.

 

I understand that whatever I do I need to be clinically clean, but if I use a sealing compound do I use that instead of the gasket or either side of the gasket (both of them) and is it Ok not to have any allan screws?

 

It's a standard 8v unit...

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

I have never used a gasket between the spacer and the block. Clean it and then use rtv silicone. Make sure you allow the silicone to cure before it sees any oil.

 

For the tin sump I use a gasket with Wellseal, torque bolts to spec then re torque after it's been run to temperature once.

 

No leaks.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Alloy to Alloy is always sealant, Tin to Alloy and a gasket needs to be used or it will leak. Gaskets I leave on engine builds for a few days and tighten at least once a day for 3 or 4 times, Using sealent stops the gasket from keying onto the tin/alloy

The Allen bolts fit as per a Alloy sump and the 2 shorter ones as WP said on the end main cap.