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Arwing

Tips For Storing My 205 (5 Years+)

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Arwing

Alright everyone.

 

I'm off backpacking/travelling again in a few months. I could potentially be gone up to 5 years or more. My 205 is being stored in a small barn. Even though it'll be out of the elements, i still have a breathable car cover to put over it in order to protect from dust, insect and bird s*it etc.

 

It may have to be moved (only rolled back and forward a few metres to gain access to storage items) so i need to keep it on wheels. I'll be storing the pepper pots in the car and have it standing on the original steelies. That way, any tire flat spots etc aren't an issue.

 

I know to leave the handbrake off and disconnect the battery. Will also be copper greasing wheel nuts when i put the steelies back on. And probably WD-40 every mechanical and engine part possible.

 

But any other storage tips for such a long period of time??? I've heard fuel should be as full as possible to minimise condensation in the tank? But i've also head fuel will turn to a vaseline type jelly after so many years. I'm expecting to have to skim the front discs upon my return but anything to stop callipers and the rear drums ceasing?

 

So yeah. Any tips for storing a car for this amount of time will be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks.

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nick205

Can you get someone to start and run it once in a while for you?

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Arwing

Can you get someone to start and run it once in a while for you?

Unfortunately, that won't be an option. Although, without being driven, it'd only be a matter of time before the battery drained anyway. I'm lucky to have a place to store it. The owners of the barn don't want to touch it and wouldn't appreciate my friends/family visiting once in a while in order to start it up.

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welshpug

Can you get someone to start and run it once in a while for you?

 

probably do more damage doing that, best to leave it and turn by hand or crank over with the plugs out.

 

tbh, other than leaving the handbrake off and ensuring the tyres are pumped up if its going to be left for that long you'll need to just budget for a full refresh when you get back, fuel wise I've never had any issues with gelling up or going off and I've had stuff standing for up to 3 years.

 

after 5 years the tyres on there will be far too old to use IMO, so budget also for replacing those.

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Arwing

 

probably do more damage doing that, best to leave it and turn by hand or crank over with the plugs out.

 

tbh, other than leaving the handbrake off and ensuring the tyres are pumped up if its going to be left for that long you'll need to just budget for a full refresh when you get back, fuel wise I've never had any issues with gelling up or going off and I've had stuff standing for up to 3 years.

 

after 5 years the tyres on there will be far too old to use IMO, so budget also for replacing those.

What benefit does cranking without the plugs have? Is that during the time it's stored or something to do prior to starting it properly for the first time when i return?

 

The tires aren't an issue as they're the old steel wheels and illegal tread depth anyway. The alloys will be stored in the back seat. I've been advised to keep them inflated but to release some air/pressure as apparently the pressure is one reason for causing tire walls to crack over time?

 

Cheers for the advice. And nice to know you had no problems with fuel after 3 years.

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dobboy

When I had my injectors refurb'd the guy could tell that the fuel in my tank was old, he found Silicon? in them. He suggested an additive and also recommended adding one every few months as a matter of routine maintenance.

 

Can't remember what the one I used was but it was less than £10

 

Worth a thought.

 

You might also want to think about mouse/rat traps, interior, engine bay etc, and maybe cap exhaust?

 

I found 3 chicks in a nest behind the headlight on a 205 not so long ago.

 

Plenty anti freeze too.

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2-Pugs

Change your coolant before you go. Brake fluid too. Will stop internal corrosion. I am still dealing with the effects of a car that appeared to have never had its coolant changed; the inside of the block was fanta orange and full of silt and crusty bits. One day I'll get round to replacing the radiator that is past it's best.

 

I'd also make sure there isn't too much petrol left in it so that when you come to recommision it, you won't have much to drain or it will dilute out the old stuff nicely when you refill it.

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Slo

I would drain the coolant now, it should fair a lot better having no medium inside to build up the s*it mentioned above than stagnant water/coolant left for who knows what to grow in it. Brake fluid too but im just fussy as i've seen old brake fluid turned to jelly in stood cars before. Expect to do a full brake overhaul on return on all 4 corners.

 

Rubber will perish all over the car in 5 years, even tyres inside it because of the cold in winter, although they stand a better chance inside than out.

 

Cambelt will be a priority to change when you return to it, and before you try to start it too!!! Just to be on the safe side.

 

Good point about the mouse traps, I had a mouse nest in my garage in my garden when the car stood for only 6 months. They don't usually chew the interior but will devour anything cloth, plastic or paper left in it.

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eddie bullit

Take the battery off the car..wouldn't want it leaking and corroding the inner wing. I'd be tempted to waxoyl everything and leave a few mouse traps round about..may keep em away from the wiring

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Arwing

Good thinking about the mice. My brother keeps ferrets so will sprinkle their s*it about. Keeps mice and rats away a treat (though not sure for how long - but then you can only set so many traps too right). Recently (April this year) had brake fluid renewed and new cylinders and brake lines were put in earlier in February for the MOT, so should be Ok. Will renew coolant a week or so before it goes into storage and put in extra anti freeze maybe with de-ionised water to decrease chances of problems?

 

Capping exhaust is a good idea. Will stop condensation and bugs small animals making a home up there. Will also look into adding a fuel additive. And will keep battery in a tray inside passenger footwell incase of leaking.

 

Jesus... i need to write a list. Almost wondering if it's worth the hassle lol. But i do love my Pug and don't want to sell it and know i'll enjoy driving it again when it's 30 years old even more than i do now :)

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dobboy

Maybe easier just to take it/sell it/rent it out!

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jackherer

I wouldn't leave the battery anywhere near it, unless it is kept charged up it will be scrap in five years anyway.

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eddie bullit

Something to collect moisture may help as well. Maybe seat covers and then moisture traps in each footwell only cheap from a pound shop..I'd be filling it with em. Close all dash vents as well. next best thing to a dehumidifier I suppose.

Have you not considered a cardoon? Not sure of the costs mind.

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Arwing

Something to collect moisture may help as well. Maybe seat covers and then moisture traps in each footwell only cheap from a pound shop..I'd be filling it with em. Close all dash vents as well. next best thing to a dehumidifier I suppose.

Have you not considered a cardoon? Not sure of the costs mind.

Moisture traps is a good idea. But what is a cardoon? i'm assuming not a thistle like plant that the google search produced :)

 

Following some research, i'm confirming with some garages tomorrow the possibility of flushing my DOT 3 brake fluid and replacing it with DOT 5. Apparently it's silicon based and is used on vintage cars and stores well without corroding lines, cylinders etc. Just not suitable for ABS which mine isn't luckily.

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Miles

Some of the anti damp bag's like you get or used to get in TV box's etc

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Roon

My company sells them it's called superdry.

 

If you google AWC water centre or JS humidifiers you'll find it.

 

They work very well indeed.

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u47sb2

My top tip: leave a list safely inside the car of what you have done, and what you will need to do when you return to it.

 

Other things to consider: I would have the battery completely out of the car. If there are any scabs of rust then treat before laying up. Waxoil or similar to all the underside. Loosen caliper bolts, grease the sliders, push back the caliper pistons a bit.

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dobboy

I wouldn't use the damp traps from £1 shop, eventually it will fill, freeze/overflow.

 

You can buy silica gel pellets, (boddingtons electrical) maybe scatter a load of them in a basin/bucket and sit in a foot well.

 

Or take seats out wrap in clingfilm and put them in someone's loft.

 

Seems a lot of work for a holiday!

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eddie bullit

Sorry meant Carcoon! :D​

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Arwing

Well, it went into storage today. In preperation i ...

 

Changed DOT 3 brake fluid to DOT 5 (silicon based)

Flushed and renewed coolant, using bluecol 5 year protection

WD40'd EVERY bolt ad mechanism

Standing on steel wheels. Alloys in boot with some air pressure out the tires to help stop the rubber cracking

Tied a bag over tail pipe to stop mice (or similar) making a home in the exhaust

Battery is out the car and on the floor under the boot on a tray (just incase it leaks)

Tub of ferret s*it in the engine bay where the battery was to help prevent mice/rats going in there

Windows cracked (but not enough for a mouse to get in) to allow it to breath

Copper greased the wheel bolts before puting the steel wheels back on

Hand brake off. In Gear

Gave it a good wash and wax

Breathable car cover

 

Well, it has 2 chances. Will see if this effort was worth it or not upon returning in 3 or 4 years + :)

 

10458002_10154633363235556_8826621136350

 

10609503_10154633364965556_2544130503005

 

10599302_10154633366250556_6428824988056

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Arwing

Forgot to say...

 

Also put fuel preservative in it aswell.

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eddie bullit

Jesus! I didn't know it was a GT or else I'd have suggested don't bother haha!!

Edited by eddie bullit
  • Like 2

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markb1234

doesn't matter they all need saved!

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Pugleyrich

Make sure you update this in 5 years!

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