Sheared Headbolt In The Block

[Guest B1ack_Mi16]

as the topic says.

 

I have this Mi16 block with a sheared headbolt in it.

Now I've managed to drill a 5mm hole through the bolt, and tried to get it out with this pig tail stuff, but no chance at all.

 

What to do next??

[Guest mrswampy]

cry??

 

are you re assmebling the head?

if not is any of it flush so that you could grip it and turn it out?

[Guest B1ack_Mi16]

The bolt has actually snapped exactly where the threads in the block start, which means it's about 1.5-2cm down that small holes on the top of the block.

 

I drilled through, but didn't get i centered, so the hole (5.5mm) is now as far out with the thread it can be before touching.

 

I think I'll have to get it machined out with a milling machine at university. Must probably helicoil it afterwards then?

[Guest daz205]

what about bolt removers you drill the bolt then use a left hand tap to remove the bolt

[Ahl 4]

yeah, Easyout's they're called. Worth a go.

 

Another option is to have it electrically corroded out where they sorta spark the bolt material away. A bit specialist but maybe worth it if nothing else works.

[Mattsav 1]

DONT USE AN EASY OUT!!!!

 

they snap and that'll put you even deeper in the brown stuff.

 

Get it drilled out & helicoiled

[Guest cookiemonster]

i helicoiled out a head bolt on a bike i had a few years ago. I left the whole soaking in plus-gas for a couple of days before hand, then heated up the head with a blow-torch (ally head should expand faster than a steel bolt).

 

It worked, but then i was prepared to junk the whole thing if it didnt. If your easyout breaks then (as stated above) you're shafted - they're made from pure kryptonite imported especially from the planet krypton . If you've an alternative (which is sounds like you have) try it before going down the easy out route...

[Mattsav 1]

they're made from pure kryptonite imported especially from the planet krypton

[Guest Andy Mack]

thread hijack.

 

Where do you get easyouts? Halfords? I need to get some screws out the wing where the mud flaps bolt onto. Anyone know where i can get new mud flat mounting brackets?

 

Thread un-hijacked

 

Andy

[Guest BuD]

Andy both my mudflaps have broken at the place you are talking about (the top metal fastening that is split in 2 in the wheel arch). I have fixed them with a blob of instant metal, the fix has lasted 6 months and still going - easy and cheap. I'll post a pic if you want.

 

EDIT: dunno about easy outs - would like to know meself

Edited November 13, 2003 by BuD

[Guest cookiemonster]

yeah - any hardware type place should have them, they're fairly common. Machine Mart, Halfrauds, etc.

 

You also need a T piece thing (cant recall what they're called) - basically a T shaped screw driver with a square hole instead of a blade into which the easyout locates. If you try to use easyouts with pliars or mole grips you may as well save yourself the time and just superglue a broken easyout into the stud you're trying to remove, lob the lot in the bin and go to the pub. Coz that's what will happen anyway...

[pug_ham 245 3 Cars]

You also need a T piece thing (cant recall what they're called)

A tap handle? Usually used in machine shops for taping a thread by hand.

 

You should be able to get easyouts from any tool suppliers, Machine Mart, Halfrauds etc.

 

When I had a sheared bolt removed from my block ,they managed to drill down the centre by making a driil guide first but once they had got the hole as large as they could the block was warmed up with a welding gun to expand the block & then the remains came out first try.

 

I have had trouble with snap-on easyouts shearing before so if you use one be very careful & use the largest one for that bolt size that you can IMO.

 

Graham.

[Guest stevec205gti]

If you machining it out can you not drill it out to the correct size to retap the thread? This would then just clear out all the crap that was left from the bolt

[Mattsav 1]

If you machining it out can you not drill it out to the correct size to retap the thread? This would then just clear out all the crap that was left from the bolt

Only if you're very lucky or you've got a mill.

 

Usually best to helicoil it for peace of mind.

[Guest stevec205gti]

That's what I mean - he said he was going to get it machined out on a mill at University.

[atomic-jon 1]

I did the same thing in an XU block, by over tightening one of the head bolts, it snapped in the same place as yours, I bought some easy outs and a tap handle, and with great care i managed to extract the broken bolt, its possible if you are very careful and take your time. The head bolt end was locked solid also

[Guest B1ack_Mi16]

Yes. I've done this before on the engine in my 405 too. One bolt snapped when tightening. And it was easy to get it out. I just drilled 3 small holev next to each other, and hammered a flat screwdriver along the holes so I got a grip. Then just screwed it out.

 

But this time I think the bolt has never been out since on the Pug factory in 1991. It's totally corroded or something, so I'll have to try milling it out, because my hole after drilling with this 5.5mm drill is nowhere near the centre of the bolt.

[Guest woodsy]

my head bolt snapped off couple of years ago and took block to mate at engine recon centre and made an insert that sat on top of snapped bolt then used diesel head bolt as its shorter.Motor has been perfect for couple years now with no probs.