Heating Problem After Replacing Coolant

[omri617 18]

Hi there

It seems that the radiator cooling fan does not get into action when temperature goes beyond 70ב

When close to 90 degrees I get the STOP sign on the instrument panel.

To avoid overheating , each time it happens I press the AC button which operates the fan .

(Compressor out of order and no belt to pulley)

When driving on higher speeds no overheating

What to check ?

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

 

 

Temp switch in rad.

Air lock.

Read up on how to bridge the fan terminals to check fan is working.

[omri617 18]

Thanks Simes , what does it mean air lock?

I ask cause the guy who replaced the coolant , didn't bleed the system quite well .

(He couldn't find out how)

Edited March 19, 2013 by omri617

[farmer 327 1 Cars]

If it's the orginal switch it will proberly be that at fault.

[omri617 18]

Can you give me a link of the switch I need ? I believe such switch had never been replaced

[farmer 327 1 Cars]

How many electrical pins does your old switch have on it as i think some are different?

[omri617 18]

checking in a moment. You mean this : ?

Edited March 19, 2013 by omri617

[ORB 227 1 Cars]

That's it.

 

Bridge the connectors together and see if the fan runs!

[omri617 18]

Thanks a lot

Will do today . Just came from a red eye flight from Krakow going to sleep

[omri617 18]

So , took out the wires from the switch and bridged them , waited till temp. reached 70 and above - no fan.

i heard a small relay click (coming i guess where the green + purple relays are) when i connect the wires back

 

Need to mention again , fan does work - only when pressing the ac button .

[welshpug 1,622]

you have two fans right? sounds like a relay or one of the fans is not working as intended.

 

not sure on your climate, but 205 fan;s wont come on till after 90 degrees at least anyway, though stop light should not appear till above 100 degrees or more.

[omri617 18]

I got only 1 fan . I own the car for 4 years almost , and I know for sure that each time temp. exceeded 70 , the fan got into action.

I got the STOP sign just a bit over 90.

Israel is a hot country.

Checked all fuses in the car , all good with 12V

 

The test I did , indicates that the switch is "probably" ok , right?

Edited March 19, 2013 by omri617

[DamirGTI 325]

Run a length of wire straight from the battery positive to the positive terminal of the main cooling fan connector - if it's fine , it'll run full speed .

 

There's also an fan resistor , round cylindrical shape , it's mounted usually on top of the left inner wing - unplug it's connector and bridge them with an piece of wire - again , the fan should run full speed .

 

Did you bled the system after coolant replacement ?

 

D

Edited March 19, 2013 by DamirGTI

[omri617 18]

Replacement for the relays there , where can I get?

[DamirGTI 325]

Ok. lets try again - was it fine before you drained out/changed coolant ?

 

D

[omri617 18]

I replaced coolant 10 days ago , the first "major" drive in the car was 2 days ago when the overheating occurred

The rest , was short journeys

What are you thinking Damir? ​

[DamirGTI 325]

Did you follow coolant bleeding procedure after filling up the system back ?

 

D

[farmer 327 1 Cars]

Shouldn't the expansion bottle take any air out the system anyway?

[ORB 227 1 Cars]

No, it gets trapped in the high points (thermostat housing, top hose & matrix)

 

Hense using the bleed screws.

[farmer 327 1 Cars]

Never had that problem, but the suppose the bleed screw's are there for a reason.

[omri617 18]

Oddly enough , couldn't find the bleeding screw.

Aren't XU engines self bleeding air?

[farmer 327 1 Cars]

The bleed screw on mine is on the heater matrix water pipe.

[DamirGTI 325]

Need to (system dry) :

 

1 open up the bleeder nipple on the hose which goes to the heater matrix

2 start filling the system with coolant mixture , when it starts to run trough bleeding nipple leave it for few sec. and close it .

3 put the heating control knob on fully heat

4 start the engine with the expansion bottle opened without cap , rev it a bit higher and let it run like that for 10min.

5 put the cap back on the exp. bottle and check for leaks

6 after it cools down check the level inside the exp. bottle (usually you always need to top it up a bit ..)

 

D

Edited March 19, 2013 by DamirGTI

[Zacky-94 7 2 Cars]

make sure nothing has been disturbed when draining/replacing the coolant, level is fine and heaters get hot ( normaly somewhere near bled through if they get hot) as stated put 12 volts to the fan best way be with a power probe or lenth on wire

If all of the above is ok (witch cost nothing) then start checking things like the temp switch , relays and resistor etc. and on a rare ocasion the wiring harness , normal diagnosis methods to rule out the problem , you should be able to sort it wiith a multi meter and wiring diagram

 

What have you checked so far?

[omri617 18]

Ok , I will do it .

Lets suggest the system isn't bled properly, is that a reason for the fan not to get into action ?

Mentioning again that the car drives fine and no heating issues when going on the open road.

It heats only when parked & traffic.