[Engine_Work] Peugeot 205 Hdi

[Uberderv 6]

I have edited the pics on the first page now so they are bigger :-)

 

With all the main bits bolted back to the engine it was time to start the loom When putting the HDI engine into another car you first need to get your ECU immobiliser disabled. Luckily enough for me I found one on Ebay which had been done already, I also found another ECU with the same HW/SW numbers on it for when I start to remap it.

 

With the ECU ready you only need the engine loom and its relays etc....

 

As you can see in the pic the loom has all sorts of gubbins on with cables going everywhere. My plan was to fit the ECU where the battery would normally sit so I stripped the entire loom and re-routed it to how I wanted it.

 

 

There were a few plugs I had to replace and a few bits I removed from the loom as they would not be used. These where- EGR solenoid control wires, 3rd piston de-activator cable, Auxiliary heating control circuit, anything to do with A/C and last of all make a new multi plug so it can be connected to the original loom. I have also wired in a connection for OBDII so it can be re mapped and have fault codes diagnosed (important on the HDI engine)

 

Loom starting to take shape-

 

 

As you can see the loom has become quite long due to being reshaped so I removed about 12inches from each wire then soldered it back together. Funnily enough I didnt take any pics of that even though it was such an exciting part

[Uberderv 6]

Now the loom was 80% ready I moved back to finishing the intake and boost pipes. The original HDI is not fitted with an intercooler so a plastic pipe comes straight from the turbo up to the intake elbow.

 

 

This fitted in with my plan to chargecool the engine, I test fitted a universal chargecooler in the engine bay to see if it would actually fit-

 

 

 

It is probably the biggest I could fit in there and as it turns out I need to trim the bonnet anyway. So with a location for it I took some rough measurements and set it up in the garage.

 

 

The engine and chargecooler are pretty much the right distances and angles to work out the boost pipes-

 

 

 

 

At this point I was going to make the boost pipes out of aluminium as it fitted perfectly, these pipes had been bought off a scrapped turbo Saab-

 

 

Some very handy bits for fook all in that pic^^^^ I was going to easyweld them together for mechanical strength then put a layer of Jb weld over the joints to be 100% sure it was sealed.

 

 

 

Once the pipes were all sealed and secured I was happy, and they looked neat-

 

 

 

 

You can see in the last pic the finished intake too, It increases to 3" to accept the MAF sensor.

 

This is how I had originally done it but there was going to be too much crammed in on that corner-

 

[boldy205 75]

Like the use of a skateboard for engine moving!

[S@m 156]

With regards to the injectors - they can be stripped and reassembled, despite the manufacturers saying otherwise - although it is a fiddly, frustrating job. I once saw a ex citroen tech make one functioning injector out of two supposedly fubar'd ones.

 

Great project by the way - watching with interest.

 

Sam

[Uberderv 6]

:-) The engine was on that right up to the point I fitted it into the car, shes a sturdy board alreet.

 

I have cleaned nozzles like this before and it works well as long as they are just dirty and not worn.

[calvinhorse 870]

This is amazing!

[Weser 30]

Not sure how I have missed this project but glad I have stubbled accross it. Its very interesting I look forward to seeing it progress.

[madaxgt 0]

Good work on this, the injectors will probably not be as good as reman injectors but they will be a lot better than old coked up ones. The only real reason to get them coded etc is for smooth idle and combustion noise reduction emissions etc. And as theyre solenoid injectors I say run em' . Piezo's are a whole other story.

 

Also for the turbo inlet try and get as much straight section before the compressor as possible as they dont like uneven flow and it will perform much better! What box can you use on the hdi? be3 or do you need the one with the engine?

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Good work Pete, nice to see you've brought the topic across from TDOC forum with some better pics etc.

 

g

[FireFly 4]

Some serious engine cleaning there fella!

[Uberderv 6]

Thanks chaps :-)

 

Madaxgt- The turbo and injector nozzles will be upgraded eventually so I didn't want to spend too much time on them. Plan is to make sure the car runs in standard form, get it mot'd etc then get some performance stuff done.

 

Will update soon, just in middle of moving house.

[Guest Spitfire2k6]

So what happened to this thing? Where'd it end up?

[Uberderv 6]

After moving house the 205 had to sit on the drive under its cover for a while because the new garage was full of stuff from our old house. Anyway I have sorted it out now and have restarted work on the 205. I had a little drive of it when we moved (on some private land) and it felt really good and quite quick............until the chuffing boot pipe blew off and I couldnt get the bonnet open to sort it. Here it is going into the new bat cave-

 

[Uberderv 6]

So with the engine almost ready I moved onto the engine bay. By doing some basic measurements I could see that the M/C was either going to touch the camshaft cover or be too close for comfort. I looked into tilting it up using washers etc... but in the end decided to remove it and grind a touch off the end.

Plan is to remove the bottom corner of the M/C so its more of a 45deg slope instead of a right angle-

 

 

 

The second pic shows the clearance when I eventually fitted the engine, I also replaced a cap head which holds the rocker/cam cover down to give more clearance. It doesnt look alot in the pic but I am happy with it.

I also took the subfame off and gave it a good steam clean as it had sticky veg oil all over it. With the subframe off I checked the ball joints etc.. and found both balljoint boots had split so replaced with new covers and filled with grease.

With the subframe back on and the engine bay cleaned it was time to offer the Hdi block/head up. Armed with the finest workshop tools (trolley jack, bits of wood and cider) I got it into position and bolted the drivers side mount down. Everything seemed to fit perfectly so next was getting the gearbox on.....

 

Edited June 30, 2013 by Uberderv

[welshpug 1,655]

if you have the engine out, have a look at shifting the servo up on the pedal box, you can get a good 5-10mm by doing so

[Uberderv 6]

As I had decided to use the HDI gearbox a few modifications where required to get it to fit. After a few emails to Graham (Pugham) I felt as though I had badgered him enough to get the job done.

 

First on the list was to change the gear selector arm, this was pretty straight forward and I thought it went well untill later on when I found I could only select a few gears, This was because I had let the rod drop into the box and twist which moved it out of its position. After fiddling round with that for a while I got it into the correct position.

 

Next was to change the diff as I plan on using the original shafts etc... to get it through the MOT then I will upgrade.....

 

Here are a few pics from the job-

 

Dt diff casing-

 

 

Cover off exposing the gubbins-

 

 

With this out I had to split the toothed ring off it then fit the diff to the HDI toothed ring-

 

 

 

Thats pretty much it for the gearbox, I do feel as though the mounting pin could be moved slightly inward and have looked at the 206 hdi setup but that will have to wait.

Now the gearbox was ready I got it fitted to the engine and could finally get things moving-

 

[Uberderv 6]

if you have the engine out, have a look at shifting the servo up on the pedal box, you can get a good 5-10mm by doing so

Engine is in now, cheers for the info. I think there is enough room between them now as the engine mounts are pretty solid and it runs very smoothly.

[welshpug 1,655]

Excellent

 

What did you mean by the mounting pin? I know later boxes have two M18 tappings but you use the outer one in a 205.

[Uberderv 6]

The stud that comes up from the gearbox and into the mount on the chassis. I tried to remove it but its in there for good. There is another hole where I could fit it just couldn't get the bugger out.

 

In the end I had to oval the holes on the rubber mount for it to fit. Long term I will probably cut the stud off and fit a new one in the spare inner hole.

[welshpug 1,655]

heat the alloy casting up and use a pair of stilsons

 

you can't use the inner hole as it is located further inwards and also forwards on the casing, it will pull the gearbox (and engine!) over by 2 inches and back an inch if you use that, you'd be lucky if the nearside CV didn't hit the subframe!

Edited June 29, 2013 by welshpug

[Uberderv 6]

If that's not possible maybe I will look into the 206 mount again, I have not measured it up though. The ovaling of the rubber Mount is well up to the job its just in the back of my mind for future jobs :-)

[Uberderv 6]

With the engine and box now in I got the other bits fitted like the D/shafts, rear mount, loom and associated electrical sensors. I have connected the old loom to the new loom using a multi plug so it can be disconnected easily. The original power connection with the high amp fuses was reused too as I have the battery mounted in the boot.

 

 

The pic above shows that the Ecu fits perfectly in the old battery tray, I have mounted it on a rubber sheet to help stop any vibrations. You can also see that the loom was far too long so that was shortened to make things neater. The cooling system turned out to be a pain and if I could do it again I would of used the setup from another Hdi where the coolant distribution housing has the inlet and outlet at the front. (cant remember which model its used on)

 

Next major job was getting the radiator in there. As the alternator sticks out quite alot the original fan and cowling had to be binned-

 

 

 

You can see from the lower pic I had to massage the bodywork to get a bit more clearance for the alternator. Knowing that I had to make a new frame for the rad I made version one which used the lower cross member for support. This gave plenty of room but I later found that the bumper would come into contact with it.

 

 

So off came the cross member and a new bracket was made which lowers and tilts the radiator and replaces the cross member.

 

 

 

 

The gap above the rad is is going be used for the chargecooler pre-rad so needs to be a good size. With the rad lowered the new frame stuck out from beneath the bumper by 1" so I have fitted a splitter to cover it.........

[Guest Spitfire2k6]

What's the ground clearance on the rad now mate?

[Uberderv 6]

What's the ground clearance on the rad now mate?

Its just over 7 inches from the floor to the base of the radiator frame.

[dirtdog 4]

Liking this!