How Many Teeth On A Starter For A Xu9Jaz

[mhyphenl 10 1 Cars]

Looking at Car parts for less for a starter motor, the current one is new, doesn't work and the place I got it from has gone out of business! I'm not sure therefore that it is correct and so don't want to use that one as a guide. Most of the 15 on offer seem to be 9 to 11 teeth but what is the correcty amount? Also what brand would you go for??

[pug_ham 245 3 Cars]

Why doesn't your new one work?

 

Surely if its new / refurbish then it can only be due to power that its not working?

 

The difference in no of teeth wlll be for the different drive speed, on the two I have for sale have the original 205 starter has 9 teeth & the hdi starter has 13.

 

g

[welshpug 1,678]

they vary, nothing is "correct" as such.

 

Valeo and Mitsubishi are the o.e brands I have seen used on pugs, you will find MagnettiMarelli, Hella and Bosch units as replacements, these will usually be original core units with the replaceable parts replaced.

[mhyphenl 10 1 Cars]

I wish I knew! I've tried everything to ensure the max power is getting to it, direct eart and 12v connections to the battery. The only thing I haven't done yet as its hard to get to is trigger the starter directly off the battery to eliminate the ignition switch. The solonoid clicks but the starter won't turn, it occasionally goes but takes dozens of tries. I really don't want to take the engine bay apart again. I've completely rebuilt the car but strangely the old starter was doing the same which is why i changed it! Any other things to try before i rip it apart!

[pug_ham 245 3 Cars]

Your starter doesn't need an earth, it earths through the block.

 

There should be one connection directly from the battery which also goes to the alternator & on smaller wire to the solenoid

 

Personally I'd try a direct feed from the battery to the solenoid just to test it cranks & if it does you'll need to look at a new solenoid feed wire from the under dash plugs, fit a relay or it could be your ignition switch.

 

g

[mhyphenl 10 1 Cars]

Your starter doesn't need an earth, it earths through the block.

 

There should be one connection directly from the battery which also goes to the alternator & on smaller wire to the solenoid

 

Personally I'd try a direct feed from the battery to the solenoid just to test it cranks & if it does you'll need to look at a new solenoid feed wire from the under dash plugs, fit a relay or it could be your ignition switch.

 

g

 

 

The reason I put an earth in was due to the fact that the gearbox had been painted and I wasn't sure of a good earth from the gear box to battery cable. I did notice that there was no bracket on the back or the starter that came off which I have seen on some other pugs, is that important? I'll try and get to the solonoid connection! Do you know which relay is for the ignition?

As always guys thanks for the help?

 

the two I have for sale have the original 205 starter has 9 teeth & the hdi starter has 13.

 

g

 

If I do need one how much do you want??

[pug_ham 245 3 Cars]

There isn't a relay for the starter originally, you'd have to fit one to help boost the power to the starter solenoid as discussed in this topic.

 

On a painted gearbox, all you have to do is scrap the paint away from the earth stud location on the box & that should be more than enough.

 

The bracket isn't needed imo, I've removed them whenever I've found the fitted & had to swap a starter without any problem & they only fit the original big starters so if you buy a smaller replacemtn they are waste anyway.

 

I'm selling an original 205 one removed from a 94 205 Mardi gras 1.6 auto for £3 & the 306/406 2.0 hdi one for £5, both plus £10 courier delivery.

 

Topic here

 

g

[mhyphenl 10 1 Cars]

There isn't a relay for the starter originally, you'd have to fit one to help boost the power to the starter solenoid as discussed in this topic.

 

On a painted gearbox, all you have to do is scrap the paint away from the earth stud location on the box & that should be more than enough.

 

The bracket isn't needed imo, I've removed them whenever I've found the fitted & had to swap a starter without any problem & they only fit the original big starters so if you buy a smaller replacemtn they are waste anyway.

 

I'm selling an original 205 one removed from a 94 205 Mardi gras 1.6 auto for £3 & the 306/406 2.0 hdi one for £5, both plus £10 courier delivery.

 

Topic here

 

g

 

Pointless question i know but for completeness, do you have one of the pointless brackets for the back of the oe starter you have?

[mhyphenl 10 1 Cars]

There isn't a relay for the starter originally, you'd have to fit one to help boost the power to the starter solenoid as discussed in this topic.

 

 

 

Well thats interesting, my SAD isn't working either and i'm on the second one, they both work on the bench! I'm wondering if I have an issue elsewhere!?

Edited November 21, 2012 by mhyphenl

[Anthony 1,003]

The bracket only fits the early bulky starter - later slimline starters (as used in 306's etc) didn't have the bracket and even if they did, I wouldn't bother refitting it. It's not needed and makes removing and refitting the starter far more of a pain than it needs to be, and you'll find that the vast majority of 205's will be missing that bracket for that reason.

 

As G has said, I would just put a direct 12v feed to the solenoid and see if that reliably cranks the starter over. If it does, and my guess is that it will, then the fault lies with your wiring somewhere - if it's still running through the engine bay brown multiplug then I would start there, as that's notorious for causing clicking solenoids.

 

Worse case scenario, run a solenoid as per that thread - that's what I had to do when I discovered that just about every part of the original solenoid wiring was causing voltage drop and thus not reliably starting, and ever since it's been perfect

[mhyphenl 10 1 Cars]

Ok great, I'll fire it up directly and see what happens, just spent the last half hour getting my head round the wiring diagram again to familiarise myself with where the connections and likely drops are. Seeing as my SAD isn't really working It's likely the problem is the multiplug as it looks as though thats the connection that would affect both as it's the eath for the SAD and the supply for the solonoid! Does that soumd likely?

[Anthony 1,003]

It's certainly possible, although the current for the SAD is pretty insignificant compared to the solenoid and the connection would have to be really poor IMO.

 

To be honest, the very best thing you can do for reliability is to remove that engine bay brown multiplug altogether - starting issues are common because of it, as is issues with the gauges and warning lights (which also all run through it). If you have a look in my Project Jalopy thread around November last year you'll see a part where I explain and picture exactly what needs doing.

[pug_ham 245 3 Cars]

Like Anthony says, if you still have the original engine bay wiring & have never done any repairs then there is a very good chance the engine bay brown multiplug is your cause.

 

If you have a multimeter you can check for starter voltage at the under dash plugs to test you ignition switch easily & then if you have the required 12v there, move out to the engine bay plug near the gearbox to test there & hopefully find where it drops off.

 

g

[mhyphenl 10 1 Cars]

Like Anthony says, if you still have the original engine bay wiring & have never done any repairs then there is a very good chance the engine bay brown multiplug is your cause.

 

If you have a multimeter you can check for starter voltage at the under dash plugs to test you ignition switch easily & then if you have the required 12v there, move out to the engine bay plug near the gearbox to test there & hopefully find where it drops off.

 

g

 

Sorry for the late thanks, as always very helpful and gone a long way to sorting, been a nightmare trying to get time on this.

I kind of went backwards on this, fired the solonoid directly from the battery and surprise surprise it went first time and turned nice and quick. I then went to the brown plug in the engine bay and did the same, again worked fine from both sides. Then to eliminate the ignition switch i shorted the supply to the starter at the connections under the right hand side of the dash and again worked quickly. That leaves me with a dodgy ignition switch, a real bugger as all my locks match with original keys!! Is there a repair or can the relay idea fix this??

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

You can just swap the back over, means taking the switch apart but it's quite easy to keep the OE key

[mhyphenl 10 1 Cars]

Hi Miles,

 

Great, thanks for that, my new switch has just arrived! (Eight days on second class post, the cheapskate!) And it looks easy enough! I'll let you all know if it solves the issue!