Need Help With A Relay

[trm3rd 0]

I'm trying to identify a relay that is under the hood up by the ECU. If you're standing in front of your car, this relay sits up behind the firewall next to the main computer at the top right of the engine compartment. It's white and labelled 12V/25A_03511. I'm trying to find out what this relay is for. I believe mine got water soaked and is now fowled. My car wont run anymore. The first issue arose when I stopped at a friends place for a minute and turned my car off. When I went to restart it, the motor would crank over just fine but wouldn't fire. It took a few tries and it finally fired. Since then it's happened a few more times and sometimes the motor would just die suddenly. No sputtering, no slowly dieing, it would just cut out like the ignition was turned off. Currently the motor wont fire at all. I went to a local part store (NAPA) and tried to find a replacement relay. The closest I could get was a NAPA Echlin AR204. The numbers on the relay itself state "12V 20/30A JD191E-1513". It was the cloest I could come to the correct pin line-up etc. The car will start with it but will not fire on all cylinders and backfires severly. It runs horribly. I took the relay back out and put the old one in and it just goes bvack to cranking over but wont fire. Does anyone have ANY information that'll help? Any ideas on where I can sorce a replacement relay? By the way this is for a 1989 405 Mi 16 (1.9L 16V DOHC (XU9J4)).

[trm3rd 0]

I've been fiddling around and I now realize this relay has nothing to do with the problems I'm having with my motor. I have discovered that when I can get it to fire it is only running on two cylinders. With it running I in turn pulled plug wires. Two of them it made no difference how it ran, and two it cut to one cylinder and would die. The spark plugs are good, as are the plug wires.. the distributor cap and rotor are okay as well. My thoughts are that it's either a failing distributor, coil, control module, or pick-up assembly. Any ideas, thoughts? It's killing me my Peug isn't running..

[grebo9mm 0]

Another electrical prob. Ive had so many myself.

 

I had summit similar with mine, (car was running lumpy even though it had spark fuel etc) turned out to be the amplifier module that sits on the side of the battery tray. (boosts spark power/signal via the coil iirc) might also add it only needed the terminals cleaning.

 

If there is even the slightest hint of corrosion on rotor arm/dizzy cap i personally would replace them to eliminate them (may not need it as you said they were ok)

 

Also, see if you can swap the leads out with ANY set of leads off ANY car just to be sure that they not faulty. Even the slightest interuption will cause a misfire and i have found brand new leads with internal damage before (cant make em all perfect )

 

I replaced all the sensors when i rebuilt mine.... There is a timing sensor (i think its knock sensor ) on rear top of the bell housing (think i had to take battery tray on my rhd model out to get to it) wiring on mine had corroded as well as sensor dying of old age (tried old 1 once re-wired but no joy).

 

Dizzy on my (rhd) mi16 is just the rotor arm and cap, coil feeds rotor arm, rotor arm feeds plugs, given you hav a spark on 2 cylinders i think it unlikely it needs replacing.

 

Hope i can be of help and my info is accurate (been a long time since i had to do any work on the beast!)

 

Jim

Edited August 24, 2009 by jimmy9mm

[trm3rd 0]

Thanks for the reply jimmy. I've done some more fiddling. I can't seem to find any fault in my ignition system. All cylinders are getting spark. I replaced the spark plugs which made no difference. The two cylinders that are not firing are receiving a strong spark. Of course now this makes me think it's fuel delivery related. Possibly injectors. If it's electrical it may be something corrosion related as you suggested. I'm gonna have to do some more poking around.

[grebo9mm 0]

Glad i was of some help

 

You may need to replace the o-rings on the injectors if you take them out to clean them (2 of mine were f***ked!)

As for cleaning, you can carfully wipe them round with a bit of carb/inlet cleaner, specialist equipment would be needed to clean the internals, think they use vibration or summit. Thread up on one of my other forums (accord type r owners club) bout injector cleaning, will have a look see if i can find it....

 

Good luck hope you get it sorted

[trm3rd 0]

Just wanted to update that the problems I was having were no small issue. Turns out that things were more serious than I suspected. Cylinders 1 and 3 had no compression and have determined the most likely cause is cracked rings or damaged pistons. The whole top end is in need of a rebuild,.. cam bearings, valve seals, head gasket, etc. I'm gonna go ahead and pretty much rebuild the whole motor as I can afford it. It's gonna be a slow process. My baby isn't gonna see the road again for some time..

[JeffR 51]

Ray-welcome aboard

 

Sorry to hear your engine woes a more serious than anticipated.

 

By your initial description, it sounded like your plenum chamber drain holes had blocked therefore flooding the engine ecu (it's bolted to the inner lhs end).

 

Anyway, good luck with the rebuild. Are there any compitent specialists familiar with that engine left in the States?

 

 

[trm3rd 0]

Thanks Jeff - Yeah there are mechanics around that specialize in euro imports. No-one that specializes in Peugeots in particular tho. The guy I'm working with is really good and not mainstream. He gets his business by word of mouth, he's pretty exclusive. He really liked working on my 405 and has agreed to do all future work. Best part is his prices are beyond fair. I'd do all the work myself if I had all the adequate equipment.