Mi16x4 Clutch

[AlexN 7]

Well my 4bie has developed yet another problem

 

A few days ago a grinding noise started coming from the gearbox whenever I depressed the clutch. The gears still change fine, no crunching or anything. I assume that it is the thrust bearing. What I want to know is how long is it ok to carry on driving it before the problem gets worse? I haven't got the time/money to sort it out at present, but for future reference how hard is it to do work on a 4bies clutch, and is it worth replacing the whole clutch when I finally get round to fixing the problem?

 

Thanks.

[Jer309GTi 3]

Probably not what you wanted to hear, but when the thrust bearing on our 306 started making noises like you describe it lasted all of about 5 miles before it exploded into bits and left us stranded.

 

IMO it is a bit of a pain to the 4bie clutch and if it was mine I would not hesistate to fit the whole clutch whilst it was apart

[AlexN 7]

Ahh thats not really what I wanted to hear! Well i guess i'll just have to risk it for a bit longer and get a clutch kit as soon as I get some money together. I assume the Valeo OEM clutch is the one to go for?

[AlexN 7]

Well I have finally got the gearbox/transfer box off and sure enough the thrust bearing had destroyed itself. Now i've just got remember how it all goes back together.....

[Jer309GTi 3]

U been taking any pics? Maybe you could do a how-to guide to help others with a 4bie clutch change?

[cybernck 400 1 Cars]

yeah that would be well good!

[AlexN 7]

Sadly my digital camera is knackered so i haven't managed to take any pics. I am going to write a detailed account of the job though and i'll try and find some useful pics.

 

I have got the car fully reassembled but now i have another problem - the battery is not charging. While i was bleeding the coolant the car died. It wouldn't start again so i charged the battery and got it started. The same thing happened again. This time i noticed that the battery light was not coming on on the dashboard. What would cause this to happen? I didn't touch any of the wiring to the alternator but i did have to disconnect a lot of the loom. Is there a likely connection that I have forgotten to reattach? I am really pissed that this has happened cos i haven't had a chance to test the clutch yet. (if that doesn't work properly then i will cry). All help and suggestions very much appreciated!!!!!!!!

[cybernck 400 1 Cars]

with fully charged battery, the car should idle for at least half an hour (without alternator charging it).

 

iirc, the only connection between alternator and loom is the alternator fault light wire.

 

i'm guessing your problem most probably has to do something with engine earth, or the TDC sensor.

[Baz 421]

U been taking any pics? Maybe you could do a how-to guide to help others with a 4bie clutch change?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Damn good idea that man!

[AlexN 7]

How would the TDC affect things? Also by engine earth you mean the one on the gearbox? This looks ok. I need to try and trace the continuity of the wiring to and from the alternator and battery. Hopefully that will show something.

[pug309twin40s 1]

put a multimeter on the connections coming of the alternator to check its actually give out charge, 14volts roughly with engine running. if it is then theres a broken or loose wire going from alternator to battery.

 

If it isn't showing any charge or low then the alternator has packed up.

[cybernck 400 1 Cars]

How would the TDC affect things?

engine wouldn't run . the idea was that if you accidentally damaged

the TDC wiring, the engine would stop if it shorted out to earth or

something along those lines, but that probably won't be the case.

 

 

Also by engine earth you mean the one on the gearbox?

yes, but there are some earths going through the loom too.

[AlexN 7]

Right....

 

I have tested the battery voltage with the engine off and it is about 12.6V. I then ran the car and tested the alternator voltage (from the terminal to an earth) and it read no more than 5.5V. The battery voltage whilst the car was running dropped to 11.3V. I then switched off and tested the continuity of the alternator to battery lead - it was fine, and the alternator to warning lamp lead - also fine. It seems as though I have a duff alternator. I have removed it so now is there a way to test an alternator off the car (no way of leaving it on the car as it is not driveable at the moment). I have heard that there is but I can't really remember?

 

Thanks for your continuing help!!!!!

[pug309twin40s 1]

youve already done the test on the alternator as i said earlier on.

 

Looks like the alternator has died. the voltage regulator is shot, which when the pack up either give out very little charge like yours is or give too much like an old one i had that was giving 18volts!!!

[AlexN 7]

Can you replace the regulators or is it easier/better to replace the whole alternator?

[pug309twin40s 1]

easier to replace the whole alternator.

 

I couldnt find anywhere that sold the voltage regulators when i wanted to fix mine.

[AlexN 7]

Well i've got the new alternator in and all is well! Went for a test drive last night, it was running very nicely indeed. I've even got the novelty of a functioning speedo! I'll write up the guide with as many useful pics as I can find (i'll take some photos of the spare boxes I have at home showing the location of the one troublesome hidden bolt), and post it up on here as soon as it is finished. Hopefully it will help out someone in the future. It's not a very difficult job just time consuming, it's also very useful to have an extra pair of hands helping out! Thanks for the advice to all those that gave it!