Rotten Inner Wing

[Carbs4me 45]

Hello All,

 

Last night i started to treat my inner wing for rust as i could see it was really starting to get worse.

 

So i started by sanding the area down with a wire brush then applyed the rust removal solution i got, and started to sand it again once it had took its course.

 

I noticed that the metal was really fakey once i sanded it the second time, so i pushed it and it was very flexible, Now there is a hole 3inch squared right next to the top engine mount. The annoying thing was the hole had been covered with fibre glass to hide it and it just peeled right off.

 

Can you buy replacement inner wings? or do you just have to make your own to suit.

 

Also with the rust solution when the rust goes a hard like black does that means its done? as i have never used it before.

 

Thanks,

 

Anthony

[M@tt 77]

Inner wings aren't available anymore, it's a case of making your own i'm afraid

 

Get a sheet of 1mm Zintec sheet steel from your local motor factors ~£11 for 3' x 2'

 

As for the rust convertor i'd slap it all over as you've done. Leave it for the recommended time as per the instruction. Yeah Kurust usually goes black/purply once it's worked.

 

Then sand over it taking what you can back to bare metal leaving the convertor in any small pits/holes to continue to inhibit the rust. You then want a good etch primer over it and then paint over that

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

Did you use Hammerite Kurust?

 

It's supposed to go black and stop rust in it's tracks. But if I were you I'd cut it out compltely so you are left with fresh metal.

 

Many people fabricate their own.

 

I have a shell here I can cut bits out of if it helps you.

[Carbs4me 45]

I used Loctite Rust Remedy

 

Sounds like a good idea chipstick can you picture them for me?, i recieved the gearstick gaitor yestarday aswell thanks!

 

Let me see how big of a job my welder thinks it is, cause he might say just cut it out and replace the crap bits of metal. hes gunna change my cross member for me at the same time aswell (for a wire roll and a pack of fags) where is the best place to source a new cross member from?

 

Thanks

[SurGie 54]

I have used rust converter and tend to stay clear because after a year or so the rust underneath got worse. If you do use it, make sure the area is super clean before application. On very difficult areas such as inbetween spot welded panels i have used it because i could not get the rust out. As long as rust is fully sealed in, it wont carry on rusting, it need air and water to carry on rusting.

 

The steel on these 205's tend to be below 1mm thick, ive used 1mm thick steel to replace bits and bobs, i prefer to use the lower thickness of around 0.8mm. It does depend on the area though and how much steel the rust has taken away. I now use the thin metal technique, where you tac it in to help stop the panel warping from heat, then do a spot weld pool on and off as you go along the steels line, while its still golden with the heat. The sealant makes life harder too, especially when its hard to remove inbetween the panels and gaps.

 

As said get it back to bare steel, then you could try some epoxy primer on it after a good key, its a tough as boots primer. Use the 2k stuff then 2k stonechip but roller it on due to health risks when spraying. Use a good mask too when you roller it on and mix the two components up. IME epoxy will easily go onto the original paint once keyed up, like around the edge where the new steel meets the old. As long as you get good coverage, it will out last any etch primers. Would be better for the underside rather than the inner wing side though, depends how you want it to look and what you are after.

[rikky 37]

did this job at weekend:

 

http://rikky.net/upload/205/weld1.jpg

http://rikky.net/upload/205/weld2.jpg

http://rikky.net/upload/205/weld3.jpg

http://rikky.net/upload/205/weld4.jpg

http://rikky.net/upload/205/bay.jpg

 

used a UPOL seam sealer on both sides and have primered over / stone chip shielded over everything to protect it before paint

 

everything was sanded down and wire wheeled back to bare metal. only the corner of the wing was rotten where the water gathers and it lacked sealant so did the full lot rather than just that section

Edited August 9, 2012 by rikky

[Carbs4me 45]

Do you need to take the wings off and everything to do the job? or can you do it with the wings on?

 

Im just starting to prep my car before i do my Mi16 conversion and full respray, while using it as a daily my idea was to start treating the inner wings before hand and primer before i ran into this.

 

My next job was to take these Side skirts off and have alook at those sills hoping i dont run into more holes along the way.

Edited August 9, 2012 by Carbs4me

[rikky 37]

you'd want to access behind the wings for welding and prep. i would take them off

[Cameron 16]

This is one of those jobs that has a tendency to snowball, so I hope you're prepared if you're thinking of taking it on yourself! Mine started as a few ropey-looking repairs that I wanted to tidy up and ended in.. well.. this:

 

[Carbs4me 45]

Did any of you bend the wings when taking them off?

 

Im not looking forward this!

[rikky 37]

depends if the wings have been off before and how they were refitted. from factory they have sealant and can bend when removing but my driver side one removed without any sealant thee - but it was rusty - so was a non-genuine wing. i have since found a bit of accident damage to the front right corner so makes sense

[Cameron 16]

You just need to very carefully cut all the sealant away first, and make sure you pull the panel away in a manner that doesn't bend it. Very difficult to explain how, but you should be able to rely on common sense and you'll be able to see when the panel is being deformed by any sealant that hasn't been sut away properly.

[Carbs4me 45]

F my life!

 

So how do i seprate the inner wing from the piece of metal that the wing bolts too?

 

Is it bolted or do i have to use a grinder?

[welshpug 1,651]

spot welded, drill the spot welds out with a spot weld drill bit.

 

bit the wing bolts to is the inner wing btw.

[Carbs4me 45]

will a little dremel with the cutting disk do the job? or is that abit rough?

[welshpug 1,651]

there's no need to cut anything yet.

 

 

stick up some pictures however and those that have tackled this very repair can advise a little more in detail as to where to start.

Edited August 9, 2012 by welshpug

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

I've got a fair bit of rust to sort on the 205 soon, and was wondering about this rust converter stuff. Basically;

1. Grind back to bare metal as best you can.
   
2. Slap on the rust converter.
   
3. Leave to go black (or whatever colour it goes).
   
4. Grind back again.
   
5. Paint over with epoxy primer/etch primer.
   

The rust on mine won't require cutting out, it's pretty much surface rot in the boot floor and the underneath. Part of the inner wing unfortunately needs cutting out though, the bit that forms the side wall. Where its sealed underneath the wing (common place) has gone totally.

[rikky 37]

i've treated numerous areas of surface rust. i ground it all back with a wire wheel / flap wheel on a grinder. then i painted Kurust on it. let it set and do its thing, and then i went straight over it with Hammerite Smooth (light coat) as this is multipurpose and acts as an undercoat and primer very well i've found. if it's on the exterior you'd be going over it with a stone chip or underseal anyway i guess?

[welshpug 1,651]

eek, did you have an explostion of your schultz can rikky?!

[rikky 37]

i've schutz the arches and underside, not the bay. the bay is hammerite stone-chip shield and is fully overpaintable and sets smooth rather than staying flexible. it was all treated, inner wing welded up, seam sealed, degreased / TFR'd and steamed off, surface rust sanded and wire wheeled down and red oxide primered. it's only to keep the rain off whilst it's outside my house whilst i get the engine built up and other bits sorted

Edited August 9, 2012 by rikky

[Cameron 16]

Yep, no need for cutting, I would take the front bumper off and headlights out (if you haven't already) and have a really good look at it to see just how bad the problem is. If it looks like you need to make any repairs to the inner wing, you're best off removing the wing (which requires only undoing bolts and cutting sealant) then drilling the spot welds out the front panel and removing that in one piece. Nothing will need to be cut until you have the front panel off and you shouldn't even try tbh as access is so restricted, once that is out the way you have a much much better chance of doing a good job!

 

It may seem a bit daunting, but as long as you're careful and methodical it really isn't so bad. If you're really not feeling confident about it then have a pro do it, but that will cost you more obviously!

[Carbs4me 45]

Nope i still need to use this car as a daily for the time been, until the Insurance runs out then it should be in my garage, i dont really have the money to take it into a garage, just mates rates and that!

 

as i still have on my list of things to buy

 

ECU

Wiring loom

Dry Sump

Timing belt kit

Ally rad and oil cooler

various bits and bobs for my Tb conservation

[Carbs4me 45]

[Carbs4me 45]

3 pictures there,

 

top one is along the edge which the wing bolts to.

2nd one is the hole next to the jack mount

3rd one is the other side but the washer bottle is in the way and i cant really see anything until its removed.

[SurGie 54]

3 pictures there,

 

top one is along the edge which the wing bolts to.

2nd one is the hole next to the jack mount

3rd one is the other side but the washer bottle is in the way and i cant really see anything until its removed.

 

Looks quite bad rust and damage there, i have a feeling its been messed about with before.

 

This is what ive used for the chassis side of things http://www.paints4tr...c-80-4112-p.asp

 

Although Jotun seem to have made a better product now, Jotun 90, even more surface tolerant.

 

http://www.jotun.com...8257917002D0831

 

Not found anywhere yet that sells it yet.