Mi16 Engine Rebuild

[claytonmangion 0]

Hi there Guys ,

After a lot of frustration trying to see what the leak from the exhasut manifold was it actually coolant . Started the engine and It started to get hot even on the gauge and the fan made no difference . So yet Im thinking of a complete rebuild . Altho the car is 1989 model and the engine is 23 years old with 49,000Miles I pretty dont know how the gasket blew up but anyway will start removing the driveshaft , wiring , gearbox and possobly the inlet manifold as not to make any damage to the radiator . So can someone please guide me accordingly on what special tools I need ? And yet what parts due I need to buy ? Crank will get a reground so bearing will have to be oversized. Dont know about the condition of the wet liner setup ince I havent open the block . Also the valve train is ticking and it slightly burn oil so valve stem seals will have to be changed . orry for my stupidity but I really need help since I never done a lot of extensive engine work ! Only replaced cylinder head on diesel models !

 

Thanks for your time and intrest !

Edited July 10, 2012 by claytonmangion

[welshpug 1,626]

I would remove the radiator and fan cowling to give much more room to work, it can be removed in one complete unit, simply unbolt the grille, unbolt the slamp panel from the headlamp panel but leave it bolted to the top of the fan cowling, unplug the wiring and lift straight up.

 

difficult to say what tools you need, but at a minimum you'll need a feeler gauge set, breaker bar, torque wrench, angle tightening gauge.

 

you can remove the engine and gearbox in one complete unit, unbolt the gearbox support bracket from the inner wing to give more clearance.

[claytonmangion 0]

will get the feeler gauge

breaker bar i have

torque also in my possesion

 

about the angle tightening gauge i cant seem to understand what it is can you show me a picture please

and also since I will be removing the liners how can i measure the depth of them from the block ?

Thanks

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

At that mileage I would expect to see a fair amount of corrosion in the block and head face, This is the major problem with low mileage cars unless the coolant has been changed every year

[claytonmangion 0]

will the block have to be changed ?

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

You never know until it's apart, Some things can be repaired with the right glues/Repair paste others cannot

[unariciflocos 49 1 Cars]

Don't regrind the crank unless it's necessary, have it measured first.

[kyepan 291]

block can be decked by 0.04mm without causing valve clearance if memory serves, the head can be skimmed flat if it is warped and most corrosion can be welded up prior to skimming if someone on the island can weld aluminium.

 

a full top end gasket kit will include head gasket and stem oil seals, there may be no need to touch the bottom end unless you either have corrosion on the block face that will cause another head gasket or disturb the liners so they do not stand proud the correct ammount.

 

search for - liner protruderance in the xu section.

 

you will be looking at upwards of 200 euros for gaskets and bearings, not including machining for the head / block.. if you want to rebuild it

 

 

cheers

J

Edited July 11, 2012 by kyepan

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

will get the feeler gauge

breaker bar i have

torque also in my possesion

 

about the angle tightening gauge i cant seem to understand what it is can you show me a picture please

and also since I will be removing the liners how can i measure the depth of them from the block ?

Thanks

 

You'll need an angle tightening gauge for the cylinder head bolts, 3 stages to securing them. First 2 stages are torque settings, the 3rd is an angle (270 degrees I think).

 

Liner protusion is measured using steel rule across tops of liners and feeler gauges between rule and top of block. Can be problematic, especially if the block has 'sagged' in the middle.

 

Have a search on this forum for the Peugeot Mi16 workshop manual. Full guide to a rebuild with lovely pictures.

[claytonmangion 0]

will start taking the drivehaft and all the wiring tonight if i can ! after that get the block out and ill open it !

I have the repair manual ! Altho if the block and liners are very badly correded i have a xu7 block same as xu9 block only the rods differ but to my knowledge that have the same bore size !

And yes In Malta we have people that weld aluminum but I dont quite like that idea !

[kyepan 291]

look at my MI-16 build thread in engine work if you want to see what is involved in rebuilding an aluminium wet liner MI.

 

j

[claytonmangion 0]

will do mate ! getting ready to being the work ! Also I thought I need a engine stand will be to a good use while rebuilding ! Thanks for now guys im off to the shed ! WORK ALL NIGHT SLEEP ALL DAY !

[claytonmangion 0]

http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg594/scaled.php?server=594&filename=xu9j4rebuild001.jpg&res=landing

How It Is At The Moment

Managed To Remove

-Wiring

-Gearbox

-Inlet With Ancillaries

 

Tomorrow The Engine Will Be Removed Thanks For Your Help Until Now Guys

 

Took An Image Inside The Cylinder Head And Altho Its Pretty Dark The Valves Look Like Full Of Carbon

http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg32/scaled.php?server=32&filename=xu9j4rebuild003.jpg&res=landing

 

Thanks For Your Help Guys ! Much Appreciated

[kyepan 291]

Get a photo bucket account, then you can get your images to display in the thread!

[claytonmangion 0]

Well Photobucket doesnt want to load up . Tonight nobody is arsed to come and help me remove my engine ! So I thought instead of wasting time I might just give the gearbox a nice coat of spray . Has anybody done this ? And if so what products do you recommend and what is the outcome ?

[claytonmangion 0]

well basically things have moved very well. Engine is out all all the ancilleries are removed ! When I removed the sump I saw the the end caps the connect with the con rod are slightly skimmed ! So thus I suppose the engine have been opened in the previous years ! Also what I was going to ask is . Can I re-skim the end caps again & If the crank has been grounded Can I ground them again ?

 

Thanks for your help to this very point !

[tri_longer 25]

I've painted a gear box before using Simoniz silver engine paint. But most of the work was in cleaing it before hand with copious amounts of carb and brake cleaner (great solvents) and wire brushes in a drill. Then in the shed with a halogen heater and spray away.

 

Ideally what I would want to do is split the gear box down and have the parts powdered coated, but that is more time consuming and costly. For a home brew effort mine was more than good enough.

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

block can be decked by 0.04mm without causing valve clearance if memory serves

 

Just to clarify. Decking the block can be done up to 0.4mm, which increases CR (on a D6C) engine from 10.4:1 to 10.8:1. This is not a standard rebuild task, but part of a performace upgrade and works well with a new or reprofiled inlet cam.

 

If you're staying standard, then just inspect and resurface the head face if it can be reused; if not, you may need a new head.

 

As the engine's coming out, whether you deck the block or not (i.e. reduce the height of the cylinder block), you ought to reseat the liners. There are a few excellent topics on here with good pictures showing how this is done, in particular one from Tom Fenton IIRC.

 

IF you deck the block, then the liners will also need machining, but this is quite tough work as the top edges of the liners may not be parallel with the deck face if you just reduce them by 0.4mm too. In other words, they need a reduction in height which may be uneven in order to ensure the liners sit parallel with the deck, but provide sufficient protrusion to bite into the head gasket.

[claytonmangion 0]

Im staying standard with this engine was opting for H.compression but yet I dont want to complicate things at the moment cause I was looking at forced induction more that HC to be honest . Now Im surfacing a problem since the camshaft sprocket is bigger than the inner diameter where the stud looks the cams ! Its very different from the XUD cylinder head since even the diameter in the CH is more than 10mm so I cant use any drill bit or long bolts in the current situation ! Can anyone guide me what to use to lock the camshaft sprockets ! Or else is there any home made techniques how to manufacture them without using a center lathe ? ! Thanks In advance !

 

Also in the previous question I stated that if the crankshaft is skimmed can it be re-skimmed again ! Thanks

[claytonmangion 0]

Hi again guys ! I though I post some pics and maybe somebody can help me

 

Well I ripped off the head from the block ! Head to be in a good shape with the water galleys !

 

 

So basically heres when I removed the camshaft there are some scratch marks where the camshaft sits and then the bearing is connected

Anyone can please recommend what shall I Do ?

Here A Pic :

http://i1234.photobu...ld/306W2010.jpg

 

Here an aerial view of the block . Can anybody please tell me if the brown residue on the walls of the alu. block is corrosion ?

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff411/Clayton_Mangion/Mi16%20XU9J4%20Rebuild/306W2011.jpg

 

Thanks For You Help

Edited July 20, 2012 by claytonmangion

[petert 554]

mmm......that cam journal bearing is bad. That looks like the wrong bearing caps were used on the head. Are the others like that too? It's possibly terminal as it's very difficult to find someone with a tool small enough to tunnel bore them. Mi16 cams are very small in diameter. To give you some idea, there is nobody in here in Sydney who can do it, the closest to me is in Brisbane. You'll need professional advice on that one.

 

As for the block, you need to lift out the liners and look at where they sit on the block. You can't see anything from your current position.

[claytonmangion 0]

The Bearing caps are the originals for sure but I will check the part no to be honest ! No only the first two from the camshaft pulley and the inlet is worst than the exhaust ones ! Will check with the local engineer see what his opinion is !

[kyepan 291]

If those bearings dont polish out, they will need filling with weldand line boring