Engine Swap, Tps Issues?

[dicky20014 4]

Very close to getting my car on the road now, just a few snagging problems. Been scratching my head and raiding the forum on this for a couple of days but still struggling. Basically ive swapped my mi16 on bodies out of one car into another as per my project thread http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=138682&st=60

 

It now runs, but doesnt sound quite right, and won't idle. When swapping the engine over, one of the few things I lost was the reference of how the tps was wired up. I've tried to set this up how it says on the emerald website and also on here, testing for resistance etc and have come up with the following:

 

 

1. earth

2. 5v

3. signal

 

Then on the wires from the ecu, one has 5v so this must be the 5v? I hope!

Then the other 2 I've tried swapping around. But it doesnt run properly in any configuration. Does anyone else have the same tps and could maybe confirm the wiring for the plug? Could this be the only issue or maybe I have this right now and its something else?

 

Also does anyone have a definate order for the HT leads? Just so I can double check that is right. I dont really know where to go if both of these are right as the engine was running perfectly when I took it out so I wouldnt have thought id need to change any settings.

 

help appreciated as always,

 

Rich

[dicky20014 4]

Another photo if it helps anyone recognise it. Also it has the numbers 500BC4 and 3664A on it

[welshpug 1,626]

you need to get a laptop plugged in to your ecu and calibrate it, also check it actually works with a multimeter.

[Anthony 1,000]

Have you plugged the laptop in to check the ECU and what it's reading for the various sensors? This will very quickly show you if you've any sensors mis-wired or giving odd values.

 

If you've removed the TPS or in any way touched the throttle bodies, you should recalibrate the TPS. Even if you haven't, it's always good practice to do so, as it only has to be fractionally out to really screw up the fuelling around idle and low throttle openings.

 

If you've had the bodies off, it would be worth double checking that they're properly balanced too.

 

I am assuming here that all this ran properly before you removed it, and hence you've got a half decent map etc!

[dicky20014 4]

Ok so I downloaded the ecu software and had a look, is this what were intrested in?

 

 

 

I then calibrated the tps which changed it to 0% throttle and gave more of a linear throttle % increase a I openned the throttle but, it still doesnt run particularly well and will only just idle for 10 seconds then stall. How does this look? The car ran perfectly and was fully mapped before the swap so I cant see why anything would need changing?

 

Rich

[dicky20014 4]

Ok so I think I may have solved this problem by calibrating it, but now there is a tapping noise coming from i think the cam cover area, I have losened the cambelt cover off and pulled it away thinking this might be catching but it hasnt solved the problem. Whipped the cam cover off but I'm not too sure what Im looking for tbh, the only thing I can think of is that the engine hadnt been run for 2 1/2 months while i swapped it all over, could this lead to one of the tappets failing? It was all running fine before the swap. Will this damage my engine running it like this?

 

Rich

[Anthony 1,000]

If it's just noisy tappets, then running the engine for a few minutes will solve the issue - left unused for an extended period, the oil tends to drain from the hydraulic tappets and they'll be noisy for a while until they sort themselves out.

[dicky20014 4]

Ive left it idling for around 15min and I think they have got a little quieter. Should I take it for a small drive and see if they have settled when I get back? If not, what could it be? Ive tried listening around with a pipe to my ear, I dont think its the injectors ticking, but cant really tell around the cam area

 

Rich

[welshpug 1,626]

yup, take it for a little drive as you will struggle to get the oil pressure up for a sustained period.

 

of course, make sure the fuelling isn't miles out due to the issues you've had, if you have a wideband then just use that and keep an aye on it.

 

 

many engines on bodies will have a slight tap noise from the bodies themselves which will be the air pulses bouncing against the butterflies.

[kyepan 291]

yep, the tuck tuck sound will be the bodies, and third vote here for a decent drive around the block, tappy mi's really rattle until they fill up. (they fill through very small holes)

 

get a video up too, just cause we all like the sound of bodies!!! WHARRRRP!!

Edited June 28, 2012 by kyepan

[dicky20014 4]

Well ive put the front end on and took it for a spin, a very short spin at that. It wont rev over about 1800rpm, just starts to pick up then pulls itself back quite sharply. Took the plugs out and its overfuelling, plugs are black and wet with petrol. What could this be?? All the sensors seem to be reading right, dont have a lamba sensor, could it still be the tps? help!

 

 

Rich

[kyepan 291]

air leak, afm connections... sounds like it is really not sensing load properly

[dicky20014 4]

Its on aftermarket management, could it be the crank sensor? Or would the engine not even start if that was faulty?

[Anthony 1,000]

Generally it won't even run with the crank sensor at fault, as usually they seem to fail completely.

 

Connecting up the laptop to the ECU with the datalog function on will very quickly highlight any intermittent/odd sensor issues, and the wideband lambda I think you mentioned having in a previous post will show if the fuelling is miles out. I seem to recall that the diagnostics screen lists any crank signal sync/loss errors too.

 

If the TPS is not correctly calibrated, is loose, or is faulty, that will royally screw things up though when it is mapped with that as the primary load source, as most throttle body installatios are. You have now calibrated it properly, haven't you?

 

If this all worked perfectly in the donor car, you need to think EXACTLY what you've done/changed/removed/refitted between it working and it now not, because logically it must be something related to your work. Without knowing that, any guesses are just that. The map and settings on the ECU shouldn't have changed, so you can probably reasonably safely rule those out - certainly don't touch them until you've ruled out absolutely everything else.

[dicky20014 4]

I've swapped 2 wires round in the tps out of intrest and it does run alot better, what baffled me is that when I calibrated the tps originally, it moved up progressively with pedal movement indicating that it was working well, now Ive swapped the wires it does the same so it could be either way really, although does run better this way. It still lags quite a bit on pick up though, could it be that the plugs are fouled with overfuelling and need replacing? I did clean them before hand, but this may not have been enough. Also, In the live mapping page, it says the fuel is 15.7 on idle and the target is 14.2, is this close enough? Or is something still quite wrong here?

 

Rich