Starting Without Shunt Box

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

I am trying to get a 205 gti6 started but the shunt box is very mangled and in pieces.

 

Positive lead comes from the starter/alternator as normal with a wire going from the positive terminal to the shunt box.

 

From the shunt box a wire then runs into then car to the DTA ECU.

 

Here's a pic of how it stands:

 

 

Now I was always under the impression that the shunt box is fused and the main reason for it is to give power to the fans. I am only intending the start the car for a few seconds to check it runs.

 

Would I be safe in ensuring the metal frame of the shunt box stays away from any surrounding metal and connecting the battery?

 

I am worried that firing 12 volts to the DTA ECU like this will damage it. But presumably it's just a 12 v supply which it needs so it's fine?

 

 

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

Shunt box provides power to fans and to the fuse board etc.

2x 30A fuses inside.

 

You should have a separate fuse for your DTA to ensure safety.

 

As long as the metal surround doesn't touch the car you'll be fine.

Remember it is always live as it is simply an extension of the battery.

 

As it happens I've got a 306 one kicking about.

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

When you say power to the fuse board do you mean the internal one? Without the shunt box being connected up underneath with the plugs (which are smashed to pieces IIRC) I wont have accessory power like lights etc - so the ignition loom wont get power to start.

 

If there is a work around to get the bare minimum - I'm all ears.

 

I have a 306 engine bay fusebox here somewhere which i was cutting up earlier for spare wire before binning it. Not sure what I'd need to do with it though as it appears to be a different sort of set up

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

I misread your post,

Yes you can mis out the shunt box etc etc and connect your dta. Protect that feed with fuse. The engine should turn over as you're giving power to the ECU/ and all engine sensors, starter / ignition and fuel pump.

Not sure how it affects the alternator though?

 

I have a 306 shunt box if you need one once it's all back together.

 

 

Edited June 2, 2012 by Simes

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

I'd have no idea what fuse to fit where. Surely the DTA must have one built in?

 

If the shunt box isn't used, how will the ignition and fuse box be getting the power?

 

I think I'm confusing myself thinking too much about it.

 

I don't have a need to repair anything after. Once I'm satisfied it starts I will be removing the engine and and the shunt loom will be binned in its current state as the car is being broken up.

 

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

I think you've confused me now!!

 

Connect the v+ cables direct to the battery, hence missing out the shunt box and the 30a fuse.

 

If you're unsure then don't bother.

Edited June 2, 2012 by Simes

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

Sorry.

 

Thanks for your help. I'm not with the car so it's hard to guess and think when I'm not 100% sure what there is and isn't.

 

There's a few (i'm thinking 3 from the top of my head - 1 is fans) plugs underneath the shunt box. Those plugs must take power to the fuse box like you say. I just need to see how I can get that loom which goes the the fuse box connected to the battered shunt box.

 

May be a case of taking the one out of my running 205 and hoping I can make some new plugs.

 

 

[Spiky 37]

i dont run a shunt box, never have.

 

there will be 2 brown wires that are for the fuse box.

 

also make sure you have a feed from battery > starter > alternator

 

your fans will need a feed too

 

cant remember what else is on it