Manifold Fitting

[jonb_5 6]

Hi,

 

I have had a search with no luck......

 

I am fitting a 4-1 manifold to replace the original cast iron lump and all the studs are knackered.... can I just use bolts to replace these or do I need to get studs?

 

Also, There is about an 18" gap between the front box and where the manifold ends, has anyone cut the original single down pipe to use in this gap, if so where about should I be cutting this? The idea to join this to the manifold is just to sleeve it.

 

Many Thanks

 

Jon

[welshpug 1,621]

studs will be far easier, Miles does these from his ebay shop pugracing.

 

I have used a section of the downpipe to fit a short magnex to the three piece earlier exhaust system, just cut to length and clamp it on, as for th length, fit the manifold, hang the exhaust, and measure the gap.

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

Looking for some advice from those who know...

 

Car is 1990 205 1.9 8V - I have acquired a full stainless Magnex system including the 4-2-1 manifold. The guy I bought it from said I will need to drop the subframe, dismantle ball joints etc in order to fit the Manifold - I thought it might be possible just to maybe disconnect the top engine mount, support engine on a jack and move it forward a bit to get the room I need to fit the manifold. Anyone here fitted a similar or same manifold themselves? thanks for your help!

[Tom Fenton 1,524]

The guy you bought it from is right in my experience. Try offering the 4 branch up and you'll see that there just isn't the space. However dropping the subframe really isn't that bad a job, drop links off, track rod ends off, bottom ball joint off, lower engine mount fork bolt off, gear rods off, steering column coupling off, then undo 6 bolts and lower it off on a jack. Sounds a lot written like that but in reality it really is simple enough.

[welshpug 1,621]

You dont need to touch the subframe, just support the engine and unbolt the top mounting arm, slides straight in, dont even need to jack the car up other than to connect the centre section up.

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

I've done a gti6 manifold without removing the subframe as mentioned above but found it much easier just to drop the subframe and do it that way.

 

Saves a lot of scraping and tugging.

[welshpug 1,621]

16v is very different, i wouldnt think of touching the subframe with 8v head.

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

i suppose you have much more tilt with the 8v engine, just saying a 16v can be done from above though so would have thought an 8v would be a doddle?

[welshpug 1,621]

yep, you can very nearly get it in without shifting the engine.

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

All thanks for your invaluable comments - have taken all on board - from the others I have spoken with it would seem it's about how you set out tackling the job, with weather pending and the wife forgiving will be doing the job this coming weekend and will post here the results - I'm hoping it will be a "doddle" as I have no access to ramps and I'm getting old for laying under cars these days, the enthusiasm will never wain though))) would just add that I am surprised at how quick your responses are and pleased to see an active forum for the old pug, thanks again!

[camgti 56]

Love the fact, that you love, that we are mad 205 owners!! Ask and we shall respond!

 

Good luck with the Manifold, I will throw my 2 cents in and say that it will be easy to lower the subframe a little. Even if you leave the drop-links and the tie rod ends attached and lower it with a jack, it should free up some room to get that manifold in there and up to the donk.

 

Cam

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

Job done!

 

Guys... thanks for all your input, I think it's important to say that everything from you was constructive - I will give a breakdown of the job just for long term record keeping purposes.

 

1. Exhaust Manifold nuts/studs were removed first - 7 came out clean with studs and 1 nut came off leaving the solitary stud in the head, they'd been on for a while although looking back through the small log book previous owner kept it was noted that exhaust gaskets were replaced at 90,000 mls - car now has 123,00mls.

 

2. one of the tensioned spring/bolts that clamps the stock exhaust downpipe to the stock manifold was a problem, the nut was in poor shape and so we had to cut through the bolt with a small hacksaw from underneath the car. This allowed the spring to push the sawn bolt off and release the manifold from the downpipe. Then it was easy and straightforward to remove the standard exhaust system from the car including the stock manifold.

 

3. We then "offered" up the 4 branch magnex manifold and it very, very nearly squeezed down through the bulkhead and into place in the exhaust tunnel but not quite... disconnecting the top engine mount on the o/s inner wing to allow forward movement of the engine gave more than enough clearance to achieve fitment, but I can see and understand why some people would recommend dropping the front sub-frame, the manifold at first glance from underneath was resting on the subframe cross-member so I do genuinley appreciate that but nonetheless, why give yourself more work by dismantling components when all you need to do is move the engine a little forward to achieve the neccessary clearance? this is okay for checking things and if you have the time I suppose, it would also help you achieve familarity and time spent.

 

4. The rest was easy as they say - although I would recommend buying new exhaust manifold studs and nuts to do the job, it makes reassembly a better experience and means placing the new exhaust gaskets (individual ports on the 205 Gti) is easier too especially if doing the job on your own.

 

5. Aftermath - my pal's 205 was a 1987 phase 1 which he bought almost new so many years ago, he owned and it ran it for 13 years he helped me fit the exhaust system and reckons his magnex system was slightly different, noiser... so maybe the system I have was more refined as it is a later magnex, but quality always shines through.

 

6. Testrun > For those who maintain that the standard 205 exhaust system is hard to beat then you are wrong when it comes to this system, I agree with you about the actual exhaust system, Peugeot are no fools and the standard exhaust is very good. But, any suggestion that the standard cast exhaust manifold is a match for a 4-1 free flowing steel manifold is politely silly - also I quite liked the standard exhaust, it is a good fit and the rear silencer very egronomic/well placed... it does it's job well on a standard car... but as soon as I tested the car with the new exhaust system it was distinctively quicker, more urgent, more responsive... it allows free flow, the standard manifold is designed like this for cheapness and mass production, it's a compromise... my only advice would be if your running the car on the road and need a new exhaust then just buy the standard exhaust assembly, it's perfectly fine... unless your prepared to replace the standard manifold with a tubular free flowing dedicated manifold then your just wasting money - all I can add is that I have definitely achieved a considerable power gain by fitting the full magnex system, there is no doubt about that, the car is noticably quicker and more urgent than before. Car is standard with exception of 57i K&N and Magnex system.

 

Again, guys, thank you for all your advice/knowledge, it ALL helped me get my job done, thanks Welsh PUG for your uncompromising confidence ;-)

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

Well done, when I fitted the Magnex to my old 8v (2002?) I did notice it was a little smoother around 2500-3000rpm.

Apart from that it had a nice ring to it.

 

Have you changed the lower engine mount for a stiffer one? Magnex used to supply these with the system, stops the manifold hitting things when changing gear.

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

Simon,

 

Yip, the long progressive pull of 3rd gear is really sweet now, maybe a combination of the 4 branch manifold, the exhaust and the 57i kit just lets it breathe better, the sound is nice too, definitely not quiet but acceptable for sure, although I will miss the nice little rasp the standard exhaust gives.

 

I noticed a little engine slap so thanks for the tip - I was just going to replace all the mounts to try and resolve this, I think they are the original mounts and a bit tired, any advice on which mounts and what specifically are the Group N mounts?

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

Group N mounts are all a little stiffer, basically solid rubber.

Group A mounts are solid metal.

 

Changing to stiffer mounts will transmit vibrations through the cabin but they will lessen over time. Advantages it will stop the engine from swinging around so much and can make the gearshift more positive.

 

If I were you and if you are concerned that the mounts have never been changed

 

Replace the lower mount for a Group N one.

Replace the gearbox and top engine mount for direct standard replacements as these don't need to be stiffer for your application.

 

Miles and BBM can supply the uprated lower mount.

 

As it happens I have an almost new standard and Peugeot supplied gearbox mount that I removed from my car. £15 delivered.

[4ll5op 8]

Hi sorry to dig this up on the bbm site are you talking about the gearbox mount or the lower engine bush

 

Cheers stu