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pugpete1108

Is Ther A Guide For Changing No 1 Bearing Seals Anywhere?

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pugpete1108

i thought seeing as i cant tell what is leaking between the crank seal and the bearing seal (hockey sticks?) im gonna do both.

 

obviously the sump has to come off but after that can i just remove the bearing cap and replace?

 

is there a guide to doing this anywhere other than the haynes?

 

any tips or tricks etc?

 

cheers

 

pete

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welshpug

Haynes manual covers it very well !!

 

only thing I;d add is to make sure everything is dry and add a line of sealant in the corner here the cap meets the block.

Edited by welshpug

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pugpete1108

furry muff mate. will do that

 

does the 205 manual show it in more detail as i was looking at the xsara vts one.

 

also do i really need to replace the flywheel bolts?

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gsidave

Let us know how you get on with this pete, at this is what I'm in the process of doing with mine.

Really you should use new flywheel bolts if not thread lock them at a minimum.

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Tom Fenton

also do i really need to replace the flywheel bolts?

 

I have re used and been fine a number of times, always thoroughly cleaned the threads and then threadlocked them in though.

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Alan_M

i thought seeing as i cant tell what is leaking between the crank seal and the bearing seal (hockey sticks?) im gonna do both.

 

obviously the sump has to come off but after that can i just remove the bearing cap and replace?

 

is there a guide to doing this anywhere other than the haynes?

 

any tips or tricks etc?

 

cheers

 

pete

 

Have a read of the XU9J4 Peugeot rebuild manual. Shows you how to do it in depth.

 

Oh, and you'll need a coke can ;)

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pugpete1108

Can you point me in the right direction ?

 

I grabbed some shim metal from work today, didn't think of a coke can, good call

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Alan_M

Can you point me in the right direction ?

 

I grabbed some shim metal from work today, didn't think of a coke can, good call

 

Just make sure the sharp edges are all removed or those hockey sticks wont last long!

 

http://www.buzzboxx.co.uk/XU9J4_Rebuild_Manual.zip

 

M@tt off here hosts it. I'd double check the torque settings if this is for an 8v though, not 100% if they're the same as Mi16, but the method of replacing the seals is the same.

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pugpete1108

its a xu10 so should be the same, i'll check the 306 one for the torques

 

cheers

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pugpete1108

picked up the seals this morning and thought i would ahve a bash before work today, bloody hell its fiddly especially with the engine in the car. :D

 

anyways this was the best i could come up with using only my two hands (could have done with three tbh)

 

is this an acceptable amount of stretch on these seals? i would say about 3mm more than when not fitted or should i remove and try again?

 

also does anyone know the correct torque settings for the bearing cap bolts? the xsara a 306 haynes state 70nm, that correct?

 

IMG_0309.jpg

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welshpug

that's not stretch, they should be cut down to 1mm protruding IIRC, says in the haynes manual though.

 

as for the torque setting, depends whihc engine section you were looking in and whether thee engine type matched, as the xsara haynes covers the TU, XU alloy, XU iron, DW's, and if its a late manual, the EW....

 

 

 

p.s should really have added this to your thread rather than start another one.

Edited by welshpug

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pugpete1108

I just went with the xu10 2.0 16v ? I assumed they were all iron block?

 

They stretched when I fitted them as it was proper fiddley trying to hold the shims in place and slide the cap upwards.

When compared to one which isn't fitted it's deffo longer. I'm aware they need trimming to 1mm but am just concerned they will not be sealing properly if stretched.

 

And yeah you're right about this being added to the other post, I'll close this one when I get home

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Alan_M

Did you stick some sealing compound on the top faces too?

 

Sorry, just looked at the rebuild manual I recommended and it's quite useless actually. Pug use a special tool for the job. I think it may have been in my Porter manual instead.

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allanallen

From my own personal experience they've always stretched/squeezed a bit out, I'd say that yours are perfectly acceptable.

Edited by allanallen

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pugpete1108

Did you stick some sealing compound on the top faces too?

 

Sorry, just looked at the rebuild manual I recommended and it's quite useless actually. Pug use a special tool for the job. I think it may have been in my Porter manual instead.

 

i have an xu10 manual the same as the one in the link, it was pretty useful anyway. giving much more detail on replacing the seals, it was just the torque setting that differ.

 

and yeah i did use sealant on the top.

 

From my own personal experience they've always stretched/squeezed a bit out, I'd say that yours are perfectly acceptable.

 

well thats good then, i really should have made up a tool to hold the shims in place.

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pugpete1108

got the sump and crank seal back in/on today, now im worried ive pushed the seal a little too far back in the housing.

 

in the haynes it says to fit the same depth as the one removed, now i cant quite remember how far that was as it was a good week of so ago i did it. but im sure it was nearly flush.

 

is it likely this will leak if i leave it as is? dont really want to try removing if i can help it as i might damage it.

 

IMG_0336.jpg

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adie205

Hi very interesting read I have the exact same issue, going to whip the box off again and sump.

 

Silly question what's the best way to support the engine with it still in car?

 

Also does anyone know where to get the hockey sticks from?

 

Thanks for any help

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petert

I'll share how I do mine. I lube up the hockey sticks, bearing cap and block mating surfaces with plenty of ThreeBond 1211. Fit the hockey sticks to the cap and then slide it in from an angle of approx. 45 deg. The ThreeBond is slippery enough to let everything slide past each over, then of course it sets and seals everywhere around the bearing cap. Allow 24 hours before cutting back the seals. The common mistake is to cut them back straight away whilst they're still stretched. Over time, they pull back a few mm. Thus they'd be too short, leading to possible leakage.

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adie205

Brilliant thanks peter, sounds like a nice way of doing it. Will do the hockey sticks then take the box off to do the flywheel seal. Just trying not to take the engine out again

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welshpug

You'll need to take the box and flywheel off to do the hockey stick seals, the main seal can be pulled out fairly easily once the main cap is loose, you refit the main seal once the cap is back on.

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welshpug

dealers do the seals btw.

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adie205

brilliant, as always thanks for your help chaps.

 

Gota get on with it now, desperate to get it out again before winter.

 

Cheers

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