Peugeot 205 Poor Running

[far4ngn 0]

Guys

 

The car starts first go, idles at 900 rpm (still summer here), i'd expect it to idle faster when first started even on a hot day. The car appears to tick over fine, but if you drive or even add more throttle the idle becomes erratic and it stalls.

 

On the open road accelerating is hesitant, the car appears to pull back then accelerates, then pulls back etc so it cannot really be driven. For a few seconds if your lucky the car appears to be ok and goes really well, only to continue with the same issues and if you slow at a junction the car will stall.

 

On my last trip I noticed the car popping a little from the exhaust, so I think it may be over fuelling?

 

I've taken the AFM out and K&N filter and gave it a good clean, checked the other breathers and these look ok, so wondered where next. The searches so far appear to point to AFM, Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, Dizzy, Dizzy Rotor, plugs and leads, Coolant temp sensor or Throttle position sensor or Tachymetric relay??

 

Any ideas? I've booked it into my local garage to see if they can check a few items... not may Peugeot specialist apart from the main stealers in this part of the world. I'm having to get a Haynes manual sent from the UK

 

Any help would be much appreciated.

 

Cheers

Paul

[DamirGTI 323]

Id try an known good second hand AFM , sounds like the resistor track inside the AFM is worn out somewhere @ mid range ...

 

(pop the AFM cover off and take a look inside - look if theres any white areas/spots or severe grooves on the black carbon track .. if it's not as bad , it can be retracked ...)

 

Damir

Edited February 7, 2012 by DamirGTI

[far4ngn 0]

Great, that's easy I can do that tonight. Will let you know how it goes.

[far4ngn 0]

Ok, removed the AFM and cleaned the tracks, I also bent the contact slightly to try and move it off the current track slightly.

 

I removed the idle screw and cleaned, also checked the pipe from behind the AFM to the SAD, loose but ok, tightened.. no change.

 

Thought I'd run the car and cover the AFM inlet, car didn't stall but struggled, so sounds like it may be a air leak.

 

How do I remove the SAD to test?

 

The car now peaked at 1200 revs but dropped slowly, then struggled and died again

[welshpug 1,622]

check the oil filler pot, it should be bolted to the side of the inlet manifold on a bobbin, the thread into the manifold is not blind.

[far4ngn 0]

Some Peugeot enthusiasts over here are going to let me borrow another AFM, plus I'll blank off the pipe to the oil filler pot incase the ribs on the pot lid are letting air past and cover the AFM inlet with my hand to see if it does finally stall.

 

I used the online parts catalogue (No, haynes manual yet) and can now see that the SAD to inlet manifold is just near the front of the car and the manifold is smaller than I thought. So should be easy to get to.

 

I'll also give the throttle body a good clean, when I removed the idle screw it was thick with old oil residue, so I'll give it a good spray with carb cleaner.

 

Once this is done, I'll be onto TPS, Temp sensor, rotor, dizzy, leads. At least I'm learning about the car

[jackherer 543]

when I removed the idle screw it was thick with old oil residue, so I'll give it a good spray with carb cleaner.

 

That alone will make more difference than you think, the screw needs to be spotlessly clean to prevent erratic idling etc.

[far4ngn 0]

Yes, I thought the idle screw was actually pointed...shape of the oil, didnt realise it has a flat tip till I cleaned it. If itwas that bad then I'll need to clean the inside of the throttle housing too.

 

Playing with the idle screw afterwards didnt seem to make any difference to the engine speed?? . Although on the plus side the car now starts at about 1200 revs, where it only started on 900 previously, before gradually stalling.

[far4ngn 0]

Found an split hose on the inlet manifold to the SAD, also had to release the AFM tension on the spring so at least I get an idle of sorts.

 

Blocked off oil breather etc and it made no difference, cleaned the throttle housing etc and same issue.

[far4ngn 0]

Ok, I finally managed to get it on a high idle to splutter to the local garage...I even managed several exhaust flame thrower at every junction on the way... which can't be good for it.

 

The garage found that I had error code 52, the lambda sensor. On checking it, the wiring was a home made job and the sensor was toast, they've refitted and undertook a smoke test for me.

 

They found three air leaks, fixed these and found another three The garage say that the car still idles rough, but is great to drive when warm.

 

They also advise that I could easily spend more money on getting the other electrical circuits checked out/rewired..so something for the future.

 

Will give you an update when I pick it up tonight.

[far4ngn 0]

They found 6 different leaks when smoke tested and code 52, the Lambda sensor wiring was broken, they fixed this and the car drives much better.

 

However this morning I started it from cold and it ticked over quite low 900 rpm, but then it back fired when I accelerated and appearred to be missing. When the engine was hot the backfire fades, but the car sounds a bit lumpy like a Subaru?? Is this right, never had one of these before?

 

Does the ecu on the Motronic 1.3 self learn or do I need to reset it?

 

Any ideas what to fix next? ECU Temp sensor, SAD?

[far4ngn 0]

I've ordered the ECU Temp sensor just incase.

[205kenny 7]

Did the garage you sent it to put the car on an emissions tester? If so what did they find?

 

I was having similar problems, so put it on the emissions tester at work. It turned out to be running very rich. I removed the afm lid and found that someone had previously adjusted it. Retract the afm (hanyes manual is useful) and it drove miles better.

 

Afm or temp sensor are probably at fault but before you spend any money, get it on a emissions tester. Unless like other people said, you can borrow a known good Afm?

[far4ngn 0]

I dont' think they did emissions test it, as once the found the leaks it drove fine....but the car was warm. I only found it when I started from cold the next day and it backfired and missed until it was warm again.

 

I had to fiddle with the AFM spring tension just to get it to the garage, so will check again.

 

Do you mean retrack the AFM?

 

It's due a WOF (MOT) and rear brake pads this month, so will see if they have an emissions tester. Many Thanks

Edited February 13, 2012 by far4ngn

[far4ngn 0]

I have a SAD, ECU Temp Sensor and a new Oil Temp sensor for the sump ordered and I'm just awaiting the shipment from the UK. The first two should at least get the choke circuit to work, the oil temp sensor isn't registering so will replace this to see if this fixes things.

 

For the AFM I'm trying to track another down to see if this fixes things.

[far4ngn 0]

Ok I found a AFM here in NZ for 30 pounds and fitted that and it appearred to idle better, alhough if still stuttered when I depressed the accelerator. So fitted the ECU Temp sensor and the car was transformed to one I could finally drive

 

Idle was at 900 revs and it stalled once or twice at junctions as I pulled up.

 

Everything went great, so took it for a long run on the motorway so it got fully warm, on the way back I could feel the car stuttering, so when I got home I checked everything and couldnt find anything wrong. It did feel like over fuelling and the car sounded like a Subaru! However, the car settled down, so went for another drive and it was ok again??

 

I turned up the idle to just under 1000 rpm so see if that fixes anything, so will investigate the over fuelling when warm