Xu10 Engine Settings (Dta Ecu)

[huwjones 0]

Evening all,

 

Tonight I finally managed to get my 309 with Xsara VTS engine running with its new DTA S40 ecu. Starts and idles ok, but won't run properly at the moment.

 

The setup I have is all standard VTS. I'm using a peugeot coil pack and All the injectors are running off just the one output (two outputs on a DTA but my second output is going to be used for ICV). I will be getting it mapped hopefully in the next week, but I have to drive it to the rolling road which is over an hour away. I need to be able to drive it there without lunching the engine.

 

So I have a few questions:

 

If any of you have a similar setup to mine, have you managed to use all the standard sensors? I'm concerned that my Bosch MAP sensor is running with the wrong settings - some sensors are pre-loaded in the DTA but mine wasn't listed (very similar number, but not quite the same).

 

What is the correct crank sensor position on these engines? I can't figure out how it's determined but the engine is starting and running fine with a figure of 305 degrees.

 

I have seen a figure of 268cc @ 3bar for the standard injectors - is this correct?

 

Idle control valve - I have a two pin valve as used on the 1.9 Mi16. I seem to remember that you could test these by applying 12v across the terminals and hear a click when the valve actuates. The one I have doesn't. Is my testing procedure wrong (am I thinking of the SAD maybe?) and have I buggered it up by trying to test? (I only momentarily touched onto the 12v a few times!) I'm thinking of taking it to work tomorrow and connecting a pulse generator to it.

 

 

 

I've got the engine running on closed loop lambda at the moment but the lambda figure keeps dropping once the engine warms up. Steady at around 1.0 when cold but drops to 0.7 when warm. I've got it running on closed loop at the moment - I thought it would adjust the fuelling itself to acheive a good lambda figure, but doesn't seem to work. Any ideas? I've not tried it under load yet.

 

I'll speak to the mapper tomorrow for more advice but he's not a Pug man so some settings would be very useful and appreciated!

[welshpug 1,626]

iirc the crank setting is 114.5 degrees, 268@3 bar is the rated figures quoted, though they perform much more like 300's.

 

lambda shouldn't be used till the engine warms up, or at least any engine that I have come across so far doesn't, not a clue regaring the ICV or MAP>

 

are you mapping TPS or map as load? I think sandy tends to use TPS and no ICV, blank the icv port and adjust with the throttle stop.

[huwjones 0]

I tried 114 degrees (same as a Vauxhall I think) but it coughed and spluttered. Is there actually a way of measuring it? I'm sure I managed to figure it out on an Mi16 years ago, but can't for the life of me remember how!

 

I'm running closed loop all the time because I have a base map from a ford zetec. I kind of hoped that running on closed loop would act as an 'auto tune' facility, but it seems not.

 

As for using the throttle stop to idle - my mapper said he'd do the same but I was keen to keep the car driveable when there's adverse temperatures outside. No problem on a track car which you warm up before setting off, but at 6am on a freezing morning I just jump in and go to work. Part of the reason I've changed to a DTA is because of poor running when cold! (I've tried allsorts to find the problem.)

 

I've just found a forum for the DTA - at long last! The old one had allsorts of info, but they don't seem to have kept anything!

[Sandy 189]

The only accurate way to verify the crank lead angle, is to TDC mark the flywheel and use a good timing light to check the advance (eg Snap On). Using a wasted spark coil pack, it'll be doubled, so 10 degrees on the ECU will be 20 degrees on the timing light. Unless something is altered, it'll basically be about 115 degrees though. Running problems are much more likely to centre around the basic maps you have and throttle stop adjustment/calibration.

[huwjones 0]

Thanks for the reply. As suspected, I had coils 1 and 2 mixed up. Swapped the leads over, changed to 115 degrees and off she went.

 

As for the rest... I don't know where to start! There's a map just for the idle valve! Booked in for mapping on Monday (all day on the rollers... Gulp!) but I can't even consider driving it down the road, let alone an hour on a dual carriageway. Engine sounds fairly rough, so something isn't right. I've had a map for the idle valve off the DTA forum, but it doesn't work for me. I suspect because timing or fuelling is generally too far out.